Are you ready to get started on Your Last Slippers?
I know I keep saying it, but these babies truly are the last slippers you’ll need. I’ve made loads of pairs with different patterns over the years, and they always stretch out of shape, or don’t stay on my feet, or are complicated to make. These are none of those things. They’ll always stay on thanks to the firm ankle opening, they’re designed to stretch so they’ll fit all feet, and they’re warm.
The free pattern below uses UK crochet terminology. There is also a printer friendly PDF version available on Ravelry for a small fee, which includes US terms and a chart.
Again, for the Dutchies, a translation is coming, but it always takes me a bit longer. Sit tight, I’ll get there. Thanks for your patience!
Shop the Yarn
Want to get your hands on Chunky Monkey for yourself?
What You’ll Need
1 (2) balls of Scheepjes Chunky Monkey in your colour choice (samples made in 1435 magenta, 2002 orange and 2018 dark grey)
5mm (H-8) hook
Blocking mats and pins
Kids: 20cm heel to toe
Adults: 23cm heel to toe
14 sts and 12 rows to measure 10 x 10 cm over htr3lo st, but tension is not important for this project.
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
htr3lo half treble crochet in 3rd loop only
dc2tog 2 double crochet stitches decreasing into one stitch
Ss slip stitch
(RS) (WS) right side/wrong side
This pattern is two sizes fits all, one for kids, and one for adults. The kids sizes will fit between the ages of about 5 and 10, and then the adult sizes should fit. However, it’s easy to customise the fit, by adding or removing stitches and rows for bigger or smaller feet.
The pattern is worked back and forth in rows to make the body of the foot and sole, then the piece is turned 90 degrees to work the tops of the feet, then the piece is slip stitched together and finished.
The kid’s size will be described, with stitch/row counts in parentheses for the adults. Eg. ch21 (31) or rep row for a total of 20 (22) rows.
Row 1 ch 21 (31), dc into second ch from the hook, htr to last, dc in last ch, turn.[20 (30)sts]
Row 2 ch1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), dc, htr3lo to the last, dc last, turn .[20 (30)sts].
ow 2 for a total of 20 (22) rows .[20 (30)sts].
Row 21 (23) (RS) Turn work 90 degrees, ss in each row across to have 20 (22) sts, turn
Row 22 (24) (WS) ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), dc in all stitches across, turn [20 (22)sts]
Row 23 (25) (RS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [18 (20)sts]
Row 24 (26) (WS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [16 (18)sts]
Rows 25 (27)-31 (32) rep row 24 7 (8) times until the stitch count is 2.
Tie off, cut yarn.
Turn work 180 degrees, and ensuring that you work on the RS, attach yarn to the opposite corner and repeat rows 21 (23) to rows 31 (32). Do not tie off.
Take your work and fold it in half, triangle edges together, RS facing each other. Using the yarn that is not tied off, ss down one side of the triangle, and then all the way to the bottom. Tie off. This has formed the toe.
Now working at the heel, join the yarn at the bottom, ss the two sides together to the start of the triangle. Now turn the slipper the right way out, and leaving an opening for the foot, dc in each row around, working a dc2tog at the top of the triangle. SS to join. Cut yarn, weave in all ends.
There are a couple of points where you can adjust the foot opening in that round; you can skip the dc2tog to make a slightly looser fit, or you can work a second dc2tog at the heel before joining.
To make a larger size, add rows in multiples of two in the first stage. This will also make your triangles larger, but you can skip sts while slip stitching across the in the foundation triangle row to give the slipper more length but a firmer top.