Tag Archives: free

Peek-a-Boo Button Wrap Pattern Size S-XL

Here it is, what you’ve been waiting for – the pattern for the Peek-a-Boo Wrap!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken

I’ve made this for you in four different sizes, from Small through to XL.

Here you can find a written pattern for size Medium, and below you can find a chart which will give you the measurements and stitch counts for sizes Small, Large and XL.

For the Dutch speakers among us, I’ve also had the design translated.  You can find it here. Veel plezier!

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Wool Warehouse.

And even better, Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell has created a video tutorial, which is enormously helpful!

Are you ready?

What You Need

Scheepjes Stone Washed XL in 850 (Garnet) – 12 balls for size M (I used 11, but get an extra to be safe)
S = 10 balls (each ball of Stone Washed XL has 75 metres)
M = 12 balls
L = 15 balls
XL = 17 balls
7cm bamboo button – you can pick these up at any good craft store, or online
Size 5mm hook (or hook to obtain gauge)
Measuring Tape
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Eucalan wool wash

Gauge

8 stitches x 5 rows = 5cm x 5cm
gauge across gauge up

Stitches

Note: All stitches are in US terms
Chain (CH)
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Half Double Crochet Back Loop Only (HDCBLO)
Half Double Crochet Front Loop Only (HDCFLO)

Size Medium

  1. Chain loosely 119 stitches.  If you’re a tight crocheter, consider going up a hook size to make sure that the chain isn’t too tight.
  2. HDC into the third chain from the hook, and all the way across (a total of 117 stitches across).  CH2, turn.
  3. HDCBLO in the first stitch, HDCFLO in the next.  Repeat this front and back (HDCBLO/FLO) format all the way across, CH2, turn.  Note:  It’s important to ensure that you have an odd number of stitches to make it easier to achieve the texture of the stitches.  If you finish the row in the back loop, when you start the next row, start in the front loop and vice versa.  You’ll find very quickly as you go that the look of the wrap will be different if you don’t maintain the BLO then FLO stitch pattern in alternating stitches.Stitch view vest
  4. Repeat this pattern building rows for 25cm.
  5. Now we are going to make the first sleeve.  Follow the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 20 stitches, then CH 35, skip 35, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.  Make sure you double check that you stitch into the BLO or FLO correctly (if the stitch in the row below was FLO, you need to stitch into the BLO).
  6. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 35 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.  the short end becomes the collar of the wrap.
  7. Repeat step 3 for a further 37cm and then we will make the next sleeve.  Making sure you start from the top of the collar and work down (add a row if you need to), repeat steps 5 and 6.
  8. Continue building the final front panel, for 25cm, then we will make the button hole.button large
  9. Starting from the top of the collar, repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 37 stitches.  Chain 7, skip 7 stitches, then repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.
  10. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 7 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.
  11. Build a further 7 rows, or complete your ball of yarn.  Tie off, weave in ends.
  12. Sew button on the opposite end of the garment to the button hole 9cm from the end, 25cm from the top.Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken
  13. Block, stretching a little (especially the length) and you’re done!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #hakenThe back of the body warmer

Size Chart

You can switch out the stitch counts and centimetres in the written pattern above for the numbers in the chart below, depending on your required size.

SMALL MEDIUM
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 70 Chain 117 + 2 70cm Chain 117 + 2
Back 32 32 37 37
Front (button) 20 20 25 25
Front (button hole) 27 27 32 32
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 12.5 20 12.5 20
End Sleeve 20 32 22.5 35
Start Button Hole 23 37 23 37
Button Hole Size 7 7
LARGE X-LARGE
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 75cm Chain 123 + 2 75cm Chain 123 + 2
Back 42 42 47 47
Front (button) 30 30 35 35
Front (button hole) 37 37 42 42
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 15 24 17.5 28
End Sleeve 25 39 27.5 43
Start Button Hole 25 40 25 40
Button Hole Size 7 7

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Rainbow Hearts Tutorial Sizes 12 months – 10 years

Here it is!  I’ve created the tutorial for the Rainbow Hearts Tutu!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com

I’ve created this in multiple sizes, but please do bear in mind that I’ve based the sizes on Crochet Maths.  That’s a technical term that involves quite a bit of finger in the air guestimation.  The numbers are sound, but if your child is larger or smaller than the standard clothing sizes, do take that into account.

Please do also note that I have created this tutorial for you completely free of charge. Please do not pass this design off as your own, and please do not sell the pattern as if it were your own.  Do by all means feel free to sell items that you make from this tutorial, but do also be so kind as to send me photos, tag me on FB or Instagram, create projects in Ravelry or even link to this post.  Thanks for being cool about this!

Let’s get to it, shall we?

Rainbow Heart Top

What You’ll Need

Gauge

Two hearts across = 5cm
Two hearts high = 6cm

free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

DC (Double Crochet
FDC (Foundation Double Crochet)
CH (Chain)
SS (Slipstitch)
SC (Single Crochet)

Notes

This tutorial has been created using sizing for a 3 year old child.  A size chart has been created if you wish to make this top for a smaller or larger child.  This chart is based on standard clothing sizes, so if the child is small large for her age, do bear that in mind when starting.

Step by Step

Chart for the Heart Stitch used in the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

(left-handed chart)

Row 1:  Using colour 1 and the 3.5mm hook, FDC x 114, join with a SS, ensuring that the work does not become twisted.
Row 2:  CH2 (counts as 1st stitch), DC x 113, SS to join.
Row 3:  Attach colour 2 at the top of the SS from the previous row, but do not cut colour 1 as you’ll be using it again in Row 4. Skip 2 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH 1, 3 x DC into the same stitch (this creates the heart), CH 1, skip the next 5 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH1, 3 x DC into the same stitch.  Repeat around, SS into the SS from your colour join (total of 19 hearts).  Do not cut the yarn, you will carry it up and use it again in row 6, 9, 12 etc.
Row 4:  Change to the 4mm hook (you can stick to the smaller hook if you crochet loosely) and switch back to colour 1. CH 4, SC into the CH 1 space at the top o the heart from the previous round.  CH 2, DC into the DC that is direclty underneath the chain between hearts, making sure you stitch in front of the chain – you need to hide that chain for the heart effect to work.  CH 2, SC into the CH 1 space at the top of the next heart.  Repeat around, join with a SS to the 2nd chain from the beginning of the row.
Row 5:  Switch back to the 3.5mm hook. CH 2, 2 x DC into the CH 2 space from the previous round, DC into the CH1 stitch, 2 x DC into the next CH 2 space, DC into the next DC, repeat around, join with a SS.
Row 6:  Switch back to colour 2 and repeat row 3.
Continue to repeat rows 3, 4 and 5 until you have a total of 15 hearts.
Row 46:  Repeat row 4.
Row 47:  Repeat row 5.
Row 48:  CH 1, SC into each stitch around, join with a SS, tie off and weave in the ends.

Heart stitch from the front - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart stitch from the front – see the DC between the hearts is in front?

Heart stitch from the back- free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart Stitch from behind. See the hearts are all in a row, the DC in between hides this from the front.

Straps

Make two, using the 3.5mm hook and colour 1.  Gauge is 13 stitches per 5 cm.  Increase or decrease this amount as needed for your required length.

Row 1:  CH 67 – loosely.
Row 2:  SC into the 3rd stitch from the hook, CH1, Skip 1, SC into the next. Repeat all the way to the end, turn.
Row 3:  CH 1, SC into the CH 1 space. CH1, SC into the next CH 1 space. Repeat across, turn.
Row 4:  Repeat row 3.

Assembly

Ensure that the seam will be under the arm.  Attach the straps above the 3rd heart from each side and when attaching the other ends, cross the straps so they will be attached to the opposite side.

Shoulder straps of the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Size Chart

Age Waist Hearts FDC count Rows of Hearts
12-18 months 50 cm 16 94 9
1 ½ – 2 years 51 cm 17 102 11
2-3 years 52 cm 18 108 13
3-4 years 53 cm 19 114 15
5-6 years 55 cm 20 120 17
7-8 years 58 cm 21/22 hearts 126/132 19
9-10 years 61 cm 23/24 138/144 21

Tutu

What You’ll Need

  • 8-12 metres of tulle (one metre of each, cut into 10cm wide strips)
  • Chord (make a chain from your contrasting heart colour that is 80-100cm long
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Tape measure

Step by Step

  1. Take your tulle and fold it so it is double (the tulle will probably be sold to you folded double anyway) and cut it to the length that you want. I wanted a floor length ballgown style tutu, and cut it to 70 cm.  Repeat this for each colour.  Depending on the size of your child’s waist you’ll need more or less fabric.  I used approximately 120 cm of each colour (I bought in 150 cm lengths).
  2. Once your colours are all cut, lie them on top of one another in the correct order (colours of the rainbow) and cut them all at once to be 10 cm widths (I had 12 strips of each colour in total). It doesn’t have to be perfect, or even straight.  We’re not striving for clear straight lines with this project.  Stack all the sections and set them aside.
  3. Now make the chord. You can use normal chord that you might have lying around if you like, but I decided to make a chain in the same yarn that I used for my hearts.  This makes a pretty and sturdy little chord, perfect for tying at the waist.  Make this to be between 80 and 100 cm long.  My daughter’s waist is just over 50 cm, so I made mine to be 80 cm – plenty of length to tie a tight bow.
  4. Once you have the chord and the tulle, it’s time to start assembling the skirt. Take the folded end of each length and slip it around the chord leaving about 15-30 cm of chord at one end (this will be so you can tie the bow, then thread the two open ends through to make a slip knot.  Pull this very tight and make the knot as small as possible.  Repeat for each colour until you use all your fabric, or reach the required length.  Try to make sure you use a full spectrum so the join is invisible.  Also try to make sure the knots are as close together as possible.  This adds a lot of pouf to your skirt, making it a real princess ballgown.

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

Make sure you keep fitting your ballerina as you go, because if the skirt is too long, you won’t be able to tie it tight enough when finished, and if it’s too short you’ll have a gap.

There you have it!  An easy tutorial to make the Rainbow Tutu outfit of your dreams!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

(I’ve also added this to the latest Hookin on Hump Day link up.)

Jasper V Pattern – XL

 

The Jasper V!  I loved all the ideas so much that everyone came up with, but one that stuck with me was the use of Jasper and V-Neck.  In the end it was simple and the Jasper V has been born!

Today I’m sharing the pattern for the XL size with you.  This is the first garment pattern I’ve written and stay tuned for more sizes.  I just wanted to get this out to you as soon as I possibly could!

So without further ado, let’s get to it!  For any questions, please send me an email using the contact form and I’ll get back to you to assist, OK?  If you find mistakes, please do the same.  Because it’s a free pattern, I’m the only tester so I’m relying on your help – thanks in advance!!

You can also find a printer version right here:

Printer Friendly Version of the Jasper V

This pattern assumes that you know crochet basics, like Chain, Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet and Double Crochet stitches.  You will also need to know how to do the Foundation Single Crochet stitch (FSC).  If you’ve never seen an FSC, you can find a great tutorial video here.  Alongside the FSC, you will also need to know how to do the Mesh Stitch, which is essentially Double Crochet, chain 1, skip 1, Double Crochet into the next stitch.

To keep a beautiful clean straight edge going up the sides, I use this brilliant technique that I found; I recommend you use it too.

All measurements are in centimetres and crochet terms are US based.

This is an original design by Nerissa Muijs.  Please do not reproduce this pattern or sell this pattern as your own work.  Please share it on your social networks, linking it back to the original source.  Please also feel free to sell items made from this pattern and please credit me by linking my website: missneriss.com.  All images are the property of Nerissa Muijs, and if you would like to repost the originals, please send me a message to ask my permission before the fact.

Jasper V - free pattern size XL on missneriss.com #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #jasper

Written Instructions

Abbreviations

FSC:    Foundation Single Crochet
SC:      Single Crochet
HDC:   Half Double Crochet
DC:      Double Crochet
CH:      Chain
SK:      Skip 1 stitch
MS:     Mesh Stitch

Gauge

21 stitches across x 9 rows high = 10cm2

Materials

  • Scheepjeswol Stone Washed (or similar 4 ply/sock) yarn – 1080 metres
  • 5mm hook; or hook to obtain gauge. I crochet tightly, so consider this when making your gauge swatch, which you will need.
  • Tapestry needle to sew in ends and seams.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Measuring tape to ensure that the sizing is correct for your body.
  • Pins (either ordinary pins, or even stitch markers will do).

 Size

This pattern is for a size XL garment.  The finished circumference (bust/hip measurement) is 110cm (43 inches) around and the length from top to bottom is 68cm (27inches).

Instructions

Row 1:  FSC x 105 (55cm)
Row 2:  CH 3 (counts as first DC and chain), skip 1 stitch, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50, DC in the last.  Turn.
Row 3:  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50
Repeat row 3 until your work is 43 cm long (41 rows).

Begin the sleeves:
Chain 35 (18cm), tie off and cut the yarn.
Re-attach at the other side, chain 37.  DC into the 3rd CH, CH1, SK1, DC into the next.  Repeat across to the last stitch of the other sleeve (179 stitches, or about 90cm end to end).  Repeat this row for a total of 3 rows and then start the V-neck.

Mark the middle stitch and crochet to the 2nd DC before the marker.  This becomes the decrease.  CH3 and turn (this counts as DC and SK1).  DC into the next DC stitch.  Crochet across to the edge of the sleeve.  CH3, turn.  Repeat that row, always stopping at the top of the CH 3 from the previous row, for 24 rows (23cm).  Tie off and attach yarn to the other sleeve, repeating the action again.

Once the V is complete, do not tie off.  Instead, MS across to the centre edge of the V.  Chain 48, attach at the first stitch on the other sided of the V and MS to the far edge of the sleeve.  This is now the beginning of the back of the top.

Repeat the MS rows for 26 rows in total; essentially the reverse of the front without the V.  After 26 rows, tie off and re-attach the yarn 37 stitches in.  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50 for 105 stitches, turn and repeat for 41 rows (or 43cm).

Now the body of the top is complete and it is time to create the edging and sew it all together.  Lie the top flat, so that the front and back edges all line up, pin the top together and whip stitch it up both sides and under the sleeves.  Try it on and admire your reflection.  You look awesome.

For the edging, Attach the yarn at the join on one side of the bottom of the top and HDC all the way round (210 in total).  Join, CH2 and repeat.  The final row will be a SC row, just to firm it up and prevent excessive stretch.

The sleeves follow much the same rule.  Join at the seam and HDC around. HDC in the side of each stitch, and also in each space between rows.  Repeat the HDC row, then complete a SC row to finish it off. Do the same for the other sleeve.

With the edging, be sure that you keep your tension to be consistent with the shape of the top.  If the edging is too loose, crochet a little tighter or considering going down a hook size.  Same for if it is too tight.  Blocking will help, but can only do so much if the edging is too tight.

The final piece is the V. there should be 2 DC posts each side of your centre stitch marker.  Attach your yarn to the top of the DC furthest from the centre (this will replicate a CH1 and bring the two edges together) and SC into the first stitch of the V.  SC all the way up the side, crocheting into each stitch and into each gap, ensuring you stitch into the stitches, not around them.  The final stitch should be a Slip Stitch into the top of the DC stitch on the body of the top.  Turn, SC into each stitch around, with the final stitch being a Slip Stitch into the next DC space on the body of the top. Turn and repeat for a total of 5 rows.  Tie off and whip stitch the V together for two or three stitches, to keep the rows at the bottom of the V straight while wearing the top.

Making sure the V sits just right... #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet

Tie off, sew in all the ends as securely as possible, soak in Eucalan for a couple of hours then block until dry.  Because it is two layers, allow for a long drying time.

On the blocking board, using my new Knit Pro blocking wires - what a cool idea! #scheepjes #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet #scheepjeswol

Jasper V Diagram - Front

Jasper V - Back

Don’t forget to parade around in front of your friends in your new top, you look amazing!

A peek at what's on the blog tomorrow, don't forget to stop by and check it out! #BigReveal #crochet

A post shared by Nerissa | Crochet | Haken 🇦🇺🇳🇱 (@miss__neriss) on

Help!

Ravelry Giveaway, just in time for Christmas!

I’m giving away 20 copies of my Merry Mini Christmas hat for free on Ravelry to help everyone get into the Christmas spirit! Just enter MERRYMINIXMAS when checking out!

Free pattern with coupon code MERRYMINIXMAS for the first 20 customers!http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mini-santa-christmas-hat

Yoda – a free pattern

Do, or do not.  There is no Try.

Yoda inspired hat for babies.

Yoda hat - free pattern

Materials

  • Bulky yarn that will use a 6mm (or J if using US measurements) hook.  I used Katia Alaska in moss green (17) for this project and the sizing is perfect.  Any bulky weight yarn should do the trick, as long as it uses a 6mm hook.
  • Embroidery needle to attach ears
  • Scissors
  • Stitch marker
  • A love of Star Wars

Skill Level

Beginner

Stitches used

  • Magic Ring – Here is a tutorial on how to make a magic ring
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Increase (INC) For a video tutorial on how to increase using a half double crochet stitch, check this out
  • Decrease (DEC) For a video tutorial on how to decrease using a half double crochet stitch, check this out

Notes

For this pattern I use American terms.  If you decide to use a different weigh yarn, no problem.  You’ll just have to add or remove one or two increase rows and perhaps some length.

This pattern is written in the round.  I’m not a fan of joining and chaining and a visible seam, but you can work that way if you prefer.

I’ve made three sizes; newborn, 6-12 months, and 12 months – 2 years.  I do have an adult version too, but will add that separately, later.

By all means, please feel free to sell items that you make from this pattern, but please do not sell this pattern or make changes and redistribute it claiming it as your own.  I would be forever grateful if you credit Miss Neriss when using this pattern – it’s important to all support one another.

May the force be with you, and if you spot any mistakes, please let me know!

Newborn Hat

R1:      7 HDC into a magic ring, pull tight to close the hole.
R2:      INC into each stitch around (14)
R3:      INC, 1HDC x 7 (21)
R4:      INC, 2HDC x 7 (28)
R5:      INC, 3HDC x 7 (35)
R6:      It gets a bit weird here. A normal increase round makes the hat too big, yet leaving it at R5 makes it just too small (for a premie you could skip R6 and go straight to R7).  Instead we have a reduced increase row: INC, 6HDC x 5 (40).
R7-13: HDC around (40)
R14:    SC around (40)
R15:    SC around (40), tie off and weave in ends.

Newborn Ears

Yoda hat - free pattern

Make 2.
R1:      MR4
R2:      HDC x 4 (4)
R3:      INC, HDC x 2 (6)
R4:      HDC x 6 (6)
R5:      INC, 2HDC x 2 (8)
R6:      HDC x 8 (8)
R7:      INC, 3HDC x 2 (10)
R8:      HDC x 10 (10)
R9:      INC, 4HDC x 2 (12)
R10:    HDC x12 (12)
R11:    DEC, 4HDC x 2 (10)
Sew open end shut then attach to the side of the hat.

6-12 Months Hat

R1:      7 HDC into a magic ring, pull tight to close the hole.
R2:      INC into each stitch around (14)
R3:      INC, 1HDC x 7 (21)
R4:      INC, 2HDC x 7 (28)
R5:      INC, 3HDC x 7 (35)
R6:      INC, 4HDC x7 (42)
R7-16: HDC around (42)
R17:    SC around (42)
R18:    SC around (42), tie off and weave in ends.

6-12 Months Ears

Make 2.
R1:      MR4
R2:      HDC x 4 (4)
R3:      INC, HDC x 2 (6)
R4:      HDC x 6 (6)
R5:      INC, 2HDC x 2 (8)
R6:      HDC x 8 (8)
R7:      INC, 3HDC x 2 (10)
R8:      HDC x 10 (10)
R9:      INC, 4HDC x 2 (12)
R10:    HDC x 12 (12)
R11:    INC, 5HDC x2 (14)
R12:    HDC X 14 (14)
R13:    INC, 6HDC x2 (16)
R14:    HDC x 6 (16)
R15:    DEC, 6HDC x 2 (14)
R16:    DEC, 5HDC x 2 (12)
Sew open end shut then attach to the side of the hat.

1-2 Years Hat

R1:      7 HDC into a magic ring, pull tight to close the hole.
R2:      INC into each stitch around (14)
R3:      INC, 1HDC x 7 (21)
R4:      INC, 2HDC x 7 (28)
R5:      INC, 3HDC x 7 (35)
R6:      INC, 4HDC x7 (42)
R7:      INC, 5HDC x7 (49)
R8-17: HDC around (49)
R18:    SC around (49)
R19:    SC around (49)
R20:    SC around (49)

1-2 Years Ears

Make 2.
R1:      MR4
R2:      HDC x 4 (4)
R3:      INC, HDC x 2 (6)
R4:      HDC x 6 (6)
R5:      INC, 2HDC x 2 (8)
R6:      HDC x 8 (8)
R7:      INC, 3HDC x 2 (10)
R8:      HDC x 10 (10)
R9:      INC, 4HDC x 2 (12)
Sew open end shut then attach to the side of the hat.

Yoda hat - free pattern

You can also find this pattern on my Ravelry store