Category Archives: Patterns

Emma Shawl – Pattern Launch and Special Offer

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

I’m so in love with this shawl.  It makes me happy to wear it; the colour is gorgeous, the merino blend is soft, warm and snuggly.

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

It’s elegant and light, and adds a splash of glamour to my outfit. But it’s also perfect to just wrap around my neck on a chilly day when I’m cycling to the shops.

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

I’ve added the design to Ravelry, for sale at 5.45EUR.  If you head to Instagram and follow me, you can grab yourself a 50% discount until May 1st.  Just check the details in the Emma Shawl photos I post there.  You can also click the Instagram links on the sidebar to the right.

For the design I used a gorgeous hand dyed fingering/4ply (sock) yarn from Craftfulness, but you can use any fingering weight yarn, as long as there is about 420 metres on the skein.  I also used a hand dyed yarn I bought from Textiel Werk Wol en Zo (in Dutch, but they speak English fabulously) a long time ago.

Emma Shawl crochet pattern, by MissNeriss. Pattern available on Ravelry.

It’s also a lovely quick design – you can easily whip it out in a couple of evenings in front of Game of Thrones.  Once you get going, the design all but crochets itself.

And don’t you just love the beautiful crystal shawl clip?  It’s about a hundred years old, and belonged to my Aunt Hilda.  I’ve loved the clips (and matching earrings) as long as I can remember, so it makes me incredibly happy to have and be able to use them.

Enjoy, I hope you love it.  I do, I’ve made lots already!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Reveal and How To

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It’s here!  Last week I was showing you the gorgeous Scheepjes Vinci yarn that I was working with, and this week here’s the result!  A beautiful crochet brioche cowl that has barely left my neck since it was completed.

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

I even had to take a selfie or two at the top of a mountain!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It was so cold up there, I needed that cowl let me tell you!

One of the cool things about this cowl, and what the photos don’t really show you (except that top one up there) is that the cowl is reversible!  So, if you prefer vertical colour stripes like I do, you wear it that way, but if you’re more into horizontal, just flip it over and you have a totally different accessory.

So, let’s get down to business.  I’ve created a pdf of the pattern for you.  The pattern also has a photo tutorial on how to do the crochet brioche stitch.  What would you think about possibly seeing a video tutorial?  Should I finally dip my toes in and make one?  Let me know in the comments.

As always, please do share your projects with me on social media.  You know I’m all over Instagram like a bad smell, so tag me @miss__neriss (that’s with two “_”) and also use the hashtag #obsessedwithcrochet.  This is a little community I’m going to build, with more info coming soon…

Click the heading below to be taken to the pattern, and I hope you enjoy!!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Pattern Free Download

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

Don’t forget: you can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Deramores, Wool Warehouse, and at Paradise Fibers in North America!

Peek-a-Boo Button Wrap Pattern Size S-XL

Here it is, what you’ve been waiting for – the pattern for the Peek-a-Boo Wrap!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken

I’ve made this for you in four different sizes, from Small through to XL.

Here you can find a written pattern for size Medium, and below you can find a chart which will give you the measurements and stitch counts for sizes Small, Large and XL.

For the Dutch speakers among us, I’ve also had the design translated.  You can find it here. Veel plezier!

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux including Caro’s Atelier*, or internationally from Wool Warehouse* and Deramores*.

And even better, Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell has created a video tutorial, which is enormously helpful!

Are you ready?

What You Need

Scheepjes Stone Washed XL in 850 (Garnet) – 12 balls for size M (I used 11, but get an extra to be safe)
S = 10 balls (each ball of Stone Washed XL has 75 metres)
M = 12 balls
L = 15 balls
XL = 17 balls
7cm bamboo button – you can pick these up at any good craft store, or online
Size 5mm hook (or hook to obtain gauge)
Measuring Tape
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Eucalan wool wash

Gauge

8 stitches x 5 rows = 5cm x 5cm
gauge across gauge up

Stitches

Note: All stitches are in US terms
Chain (CH)
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Half Double Crochet Back Loop Only (HDCBLO)
Half Double Crochet Front Loop Only (HDCFLO)

Size Medium

  1. Chain loosely 119 stitches.  If you’re a tight crocheter, consider going up a hook size to make sure that the chain isn’t too tight.
  2. HDC into the third chain from the hook, and all the way across (a total of 117 stitches across).  CH2, turn.
  3. HDCBLO in the first stitch, HDCFLO in the next.  Repeat this front and back (HDCBLO/FLO) format all the way across, CH2, turn.  Note:  It’s important to ensure that you have an odd number of stitches to make it easier to achieve the texture of the stitches.  If you finish the row in the back loop, when you start the next row, start in the front loop and vice versa.  You’ll find very quickly as you go that the look of the wrap will be different if you don’t maintain the BLO then FLO stitch pattern in alternating stitches.Stitch view vest
  4. Repeat this pattern building rows for 25cm.
  5. Now we are going to make the first sleeve.  Follow the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 20 stitches, then CH 35, skip 35, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.  Make sure you double check that you stitch into the BLO or FLO correctly (if the stitch in the row below was FLO, you need to stitch into the BLO).
  6. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 35 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.  the short end becomes the collar of the wrap.
  7. Repeat step 3 for a further 37cm and then we will make the next sleeve.  Making sure you start from the top of the collar and work down (add a row if you need to), repeat steps 5 and 6.
  8. Continue building the final front panel, for 25cm, then we will make the button hole.button large
  9. Starting from the top of the collar, repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 37 stitches.  Chain 7, skip 7 stitches, then repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.
  10. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 7 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.
  11. Build a further 7 rows, or complete your ball of yarn.  Tie off, weave in ends.
  12. Sew button on the opposite end of the garment to the button hole 9cm from the end, 25cm from the top.Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken
  13. Block, stretching a little (especially the length) and you’re done!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #hakenThe back of the body warmer

Size Chart

You can switch out the stitch counts and centimetres in the written pattern above for the numbers in the chart below, depending on your required size.

SMALL MEDIUM
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 70 Chain 117 + 2 70cm Chain 117 + 2
Back 32 32 37 37
Front (button) 20 20 25 25
Front (button hole) 27 27 32 32
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 12.5 20 12.5 20
End Sleeve 20 32 22.5 35
Start Button Hole 23 37 23 37
Button Hole Size 7 7
LARGE X-LARGE
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 75cm Chain 123 + 2 75cm Chain 123 + 2
Back 42 42 47 47
Front (button) 30 30 35 35
Front (button hole) 37 37 42 42
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 15 24 17.5 28
End Sleeve 25 39 27.5 43
Start Button Hole 25 40 25 40
Button Hole Size 7 7

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Miniman’s Nursing Necklace – The Tutorial

As promised, I’ve put together a tutorial on how to make your very own nursing necklace, which is designed to keep small ones occupied while nursing, saving mama’s sensitive skin from sharp fingernails, hair from being yanked, and general mischief making while baby is nursing.  Of course this is not only for nursing mamas; it’s such a lovely necklace that it looks stylish on everybody!

Minimans Nursing Necklace isnt just for nursing mamas! Its a beautiful accessory in its own right! Free crochet tutorial

What you’ll need

Scheepjeswol Cotton 8* in four shades.  I used 527, 711, 652 and 700.  In the Netherlands you can pick Cotton 8 up at just about any great yarn seller, and internationally you can buy via deramores.com*.

A 3mm crochet hook, scissors, and you’ll also need wooden beads in varying sizes.  I used five 35mm balls and two 25mm balls.  For added interest, you can also add a wooden ring or two – babies love the different elements and textures.

IMG_1826Abbreviations

(American terms)

CH – chain stitch
SC – single crochet (UK double crochet)
INC – increase; two single crochet stitches into the same stitch
DEC – decrease; two single crochet stitches together
STS – stitch count

Notes

This project is worked in the round.  You will also need to crochet your stitches very tightly to ensure that they keep the form of the beads.  If you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook.

Don’t forget, I’m a leftie so you might have to flip the images in your mind.  I like to keep the images for us lefties because there just aren’t that many left handed tutorials out there.  If you need help, ping me using the contact page or on Facebook.

Make one ball in the darkest colour, two in the second darkest, two in the third darkest, and two in the lightest (the 25mm balls).

Babies can't resist Miniman's Nursing Necklace from missneriss.com

35mm Bead

Round 1

CH 5, close with a slip stitch, CH 1.

Round 2

SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)

Round 3

INC in each stitch around (12 STS)INC in each stitch around (12 STS)

Round 4

(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)

Round 5

(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)

Round 6-10

SC x 24 (24 STS).  Insert the bead to measure how progress is going at each round.SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)

Round 11

(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.

Round 12

(DEC, 1 SC) x 6 (12 STS).

2014-09-04 19.47.03-1

Round 13

DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)

Finish off and hide the tail.

For the 25mm bead, follow the same instructions, skipping round 5 (and round 11 as a consequence).

Once you’ve finished all five balls in the colour combination of your choice, it’s time to thread them onto a chain.  First you need to make yourself one.  I used the lightest shade and chained stitched until I had about 90 cm.  This way the necklace would have plenty of room to become longer or shorter as necessary.

Thread the beads and tie the ends into a little knot and then together using a slip stitch so that one end can slip easily (but not too easily) to adjust the length of the necklace.

Tie the ends, then join together using a slipknot.

And you’re all done!  Looks beautiful, doesn’t it? Miniman necklace - photo tutorial on missneriss.comI love seeing projects by others, so don’t forget to brag about what you’ve made on my Facebook page or upload to Pinterest, tagging me @missneriss.  Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram while you’re at it!

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Jasper V Pattern – All the Sizes!! (S, M, L, XL)

Here it is!  The biggest and most daunting crochet project I have ever undertaken, completely finished!

Here it is!  The Jasper V is available in sizes S through to XL, all Free!  #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed

I have to say, I’m a bit sad that it’s all over and I can move on to focus on the next big project, but I’m so relieved to have all the sizes worked out and ready to go.

What I have done for the smaller sizes is to update the diagram only.  I’m not re-writing the entire pattern; instead that can be used as a guide to get started, and the diagram has all the stitch and row counts, which is the clearest description.  The edging is so straight forward that I feel what is written in the original pattern will get you through.

Remember though, if you need any help at all, please just contact me.  I’ve added a contact form below so you can do it painlessly.

1407176460.178020.IMG_8114

Here we go!

The original pattern post with all the written instructions is found at this link.

The attachments with the different sizes are all attached to this post as pdf files.  You will need a program such as Adobe Reader (or similar) to be able to read this file.

Jasper V Size Small

Jasper V Size Medium

Jasper V Size Large

Jasper V Size XL

Please, please do note: the only size that has been tested by me is the XL – the smaller sizes have been created using mathematical magic and are not tested.  I’m relying on your help for that!  If you’re making the top and it feels like it will be a little tight, please don’t panic – the stitch has a lot of give; a good 5-10 cm! Think about the yardage of the smaller sizes, you won’t need as much as I did making the XL size (about 1100 metres).

I do value any and all feedback, but please don’t be mean.  And remember above all that this is a free pattern – together we can improve it.

This is an original design by Nerissa Muijs.  Please do not reproduce this pattern or sell this pattern as your own work.  Please share it on your social networks, linking it back to the original source.  Please also feel free to sell items made from this pattern and please credit me by linking my website: missneriss.com.  All images are the property of Nerissa Muijs, and if you would like to repost the originals, please send me a message to ask my permission before the fact.

Most importantly though, please share pictures of your work with me, by adding them to Ravelry or to my Facebook page, or even via an email.

Enjoy!

Need help, or want to ask a question, go for it here:

Jasper V Pattern – XL

 

The Jasper V!  I loved all the ideas so much that everyone came up with, but one that stuck with me was the use of Jasper and V-Neck.  In the end it was simple and the Jasper V has been born!

Today I’m sharing the pattern for the XL size with you.  This is the first garment pattern I’ve written and stay tuned for more sizes.  I just wanted to get this out to you as soon as I possibly could!

So without further ado, let’s get to it!  For any questions, please send me an email using the contact form and I’ll get back to you to assist, OK?  If you find mistakes, please do the same.  Because it’s a free pattern, I’m the only tester so I’m relying on your help – thanks in advance!!

You can also find a printer version right here:

Printer Friendly Version of the Jasper V

This pattern assumes that you know crochet basics, like Chain, Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet and Double Crochet stitches.  You will also need to know how to do the Foundation Single Crochet stitch (FSC).  If you’ve never seen an FSC, you can find a great tutorial video here.  Alongside the FSC, you will also need to know how to do the Mesh Stitch, which is essentially Double Crochet, chain 1, skip 1, Double Crochet into the next stitch.

To keep a beautiful clean straight edge going up the sides, I use this brilliant technique that I found; I recommend you use it too.

All measurements are in centimetres and crochet terms are US based.

This is an original design by Nerissa Muijs.  Please do not reproduce this pattern or sell this pattern as your own work.  Please share it on your social networks, linking it back to the original source.  Please also feel free to sell items made from this pattern and please credit me by linking my website: missneriss.com.  All images are the property of Nerissa Muijs, and if you would like to repost the originals, please send me a message to ask my permission before the fact.

Jasper V - free pattern size XL on missneriss.com #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #jasper

Written Instructions

Abbreviations

FSC:    Foundation Single Crochet
SC:      Single Crochet
HDC:   Half Double Crochet
DC:      Double Crochet
CH:      Chain
SK:      Skip 1 stitch
MS:     Mesh Stitch

Gauge

21 stitches across x 9 rows high = 10cm2

Materials

  • Scheepjeswol Stone Washed (or similar 4 ply/sock) yarn – 1080 metres
  • 5mm hook; or hook to obtain gauge. I crochet tightly, so consider this when making your gauge swatch, which you will need.
  • Tapestry needle to sew in ends and seams.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Measuring tape to ensure that the sizing is correct for your body.
  • Pins (either ordinary pins, or even stitch markers will do).

 Size

This pattern is for a size XL garment.  The finished circumference (bust/hip measurement) is 110cm (43 inches) around and the length from top to bottom is 68cm (27inches).

Instructions

Row 1:  FSC x 105 (55cm)
Row 2:  CH 3 (counts as first DC and chain), skip 1 stitch, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50, DC in the last.  Turn.
Row 3:  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50
Repeat row 3 until your work is 43 cm long (41 rows).

Begin the sleeves:
Chain 35 (18cm), tie off and cut the yarn.
Re-attach at the other side, chain 37.  DC into the 3rd CH, CH1, SK1, DC into the next.  Repeat across to the last stitch of the other sleeve (179 stitches, or about 90cm end to end).  Repeat this row for a total of 3 rows and then start the V-neck.

Mark the middle stitch and crochet to the 2nd DC before the marker.  This becomes the decrease.  CH3 and turn (this counts as DC and SK1).  DC into the next DC stitch.  Crochet across to the edge of the sleeve.  CH3, turn.  Repeat that row, always stopping at the top of the CH 3 from the previous row, for 24 rows (23cm).  Tie off and attach yarn to the other sleeve, repeating the action again.

Once the V is complete, do not tie off.  Instead, MS across to the centre edge of the V.  Chain 48, attach at the first stitch on the other sided of the V and MS to the far edge of the sleeve.  This is now the beginning of the back of the top.

Repeat the MS rows for 26 rows in total; essentially the reverse of the front without the V.  After 26 rows, tie off and re-attach the yarn 37 stitches in.  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50 for 105 stitches, turn and repeat for 41 rows (or 43cm).

Now the body of the top is complete and it is time to create the edging and sew it all together.  Lie the top flat, so that the front and back edges all line up, pin the top together and whip stitch it up both sides and under the sleeves.  Try it on and admire your reflection.  You look awesome.

For the edging, Attach the yarn at the join on one side of the bottom of the top and HDC all the way round (210 in total).  Join, CH2 and repeat.  The final row will be a SC row, just to firm it up and prevent excessive stretch.

The sleeves follow much the same rule.  Join at the seam and HDC around. HDC in the side of each stitch, and also in each space between rows.  Repeat the HDC row, then complete a SC row to finish it off. Do the same for the other sleeve.

With the edging, be sure that you keep your tension to be consistent with the shape of the top.  If the edging is too loose, crochet a little tighter or considering going down a hook size.  Same for if it is too tight.  Blocking will help, but can only do so much if the edging is too tight.

The final piece is the V. there should be 2 DC posts each side of your centre stitch marker.  Attach your yarn to the top of the DC furthest from the centre (this will replicate a CH1 and bring the two edges together) and SC into the first stitch of the V.  SC all the way up the side, crocheting into each stitch and into each gap, ensuring you stitch into the stitches, not around them.  The final stitch should be a Slip Stitch into the top of the DC stitch on the body of the top.  Turn, SC into each stitch around, with the final stitch being a Slip Stitch into the next DC space on the body of the top. Turn and repeat for a total of 5 rows.  Tie off and whip stitch the V together for two or three stitches, to keep the rows at the bottom of the V straight while wearing the top.

Making sure the V sits just right... #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet

Tie off, sew in all the ends as securely as possible, soak in Eucalan for a couple of hours then block until dry.  Because it is two layers, allow for a long drying time.

On the blocking board, using my new Knit Pro blocking wires - what a cool idea! #scheepjes #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet #scheepjeswol

Jasper V Diagram - Front

Jasper V - Back

Don’t forget to parade around in front of your friends in your new top, you look amazing!

Help!

Two Little Dickie Birds – finger puppets

Two little dickie birds sitting on a wall, one named Peter, one named Paul. Fly away Peter, fly away Paul. Come back Peter, come back Paul. – nursery rhyme

Dickie Bird finger crochet pattern, toddler and adult fingers on missneriss.com

This is a rhyme that my daughter and I say together every night. I’m not sure where it came from, but all of a sudden she’s mad about all the old nursery rhymes I heard as a child. It’s amazing what comes back to you when you’re operating on almost zero sleep…

Dickie Bird finger crochet pattern, toddler and adult fingers on missneriss.com
I thought it was a bit boring only playing with our fingers, so I thought it would be cool to crochet a couple of Dickie birds and surprise her at bed time last night.

Dickie Bird finger crochet pattern, toddler and adult fingers on missneriss.com

Huge hit! She loved them. So much so that I had to make some toddler size ones too!

Of course I had to write down the pattern and share it with you, so here you go.

Two Little Dickie Birds

What you’ll need:
4ply cotton yarn in two colours plus black and yellow*. I used a combination of Phildar coton 3 and Linie 163 because that was what was in my stash.
A 3mm hook
Scissors
Fabric glue
Tapestry needle

Adult size

1: 6SC Into a magic ring
2: INC x 6 = 12 stitches
3-6: 12SC = 12 stitches
7: (INC, 3SC) x 3 = 15
8: 15SC = 15 stitches
9: (INC, 4SC) x 3 = 18 stitches
10-13: 18SC = 18 stitches

Making the face:

Before increasing at row 7, make the face. Cross-stitch the eyes using black yarn into row 4, with 3 stitches in between.
Attach the yellow yarn to row 5, between the eyes. Chain 3, slip stitch into the same stitch, tie off.

Wings (make two):

1: 6SC into a magic ring
2: (INC x 3), HDC, HDC and picot into the same HDC, HDC, SC, slip stitch and tie off. Hide all the ends and glue the wings to the sides of the body.

Toddler size

1: 6SC Into a magic ring
2: INC x 6 = 12 stitches
3-6: 12SC = 12 stitches
7: (INC, 3SC) x 3 = 15
8-10: 15SC = 15 stitches

Repeat face and wing instructions from the adult size.

20140622-210249-75769180.jpg

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Project Pile: Scalloped Neckline Lace Dress

A couple of weeks ago I decided that I wanted to crochet a dress for my daughter.  I haven’t made a lot of clothing, but the few pieces I have made are wonderful.  They’re so much fun, and give such a feeling of accomplishment.  So when I came across this pattern, I knew it was the right one.

Crochet Scalloped Neckline Lace dress

I especially loved the texture and the romantic neckline, but had to find the perfect yarn.

Eventually I settled on using Scheepjes Softfun, a yarn that I’ve heard so much about, but hadn’t had the opportunity to use yet.

But before I could begin, I had to check a few projects off the list.  I had to finish a scarf, a couple of amigurumi projects, and finalise the Bucketful of Sunshine pattern, but once they were all out the way, it was all systems go!

I just love the neckline on this pattern, it’s just so beautiful.

The project was surprisingly easy.  It took me a few swatches to get the gauge right, as I crochet much tighter than the average designer, it seems.  In the end I had to upsize to a 4.5mm hook (the pattern calls for a 3.5mm hook) which seems to be about the norm for me now.

Here is the end result.  I’m so happy with the outfit, my daughter looks so cute!

Thanks to Carrie for this photo, taken at the weekend:

And here she is, with her first love: Peppa Pig.

Crochet scallope neckline lace dress

Now I’m hoping for a long, hot summer so we can wear the dress every day!

 

Scheepjes Bucketful of Sunshine Hat – Tutorial (Toddler)

Here it is, the tutorial for my Bucketful of Sunshine Hat!  My daughter absolutely loves it, and so do I.  And it’s ready, just in time for the glorious weather in the Netherlands.

Enjoying the weather and the Bucketful of Sunshine hat on missneriss.com #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #cotton8 #crochet

Let’s get started, shall we?  This tutorial will show you how to make a hat to fit a toddler/preschooler.  My daughter has a small head for her age (it’s a family thing, so does my husband), so if your toddler’s a bit bigger, go up half a hook size, it won’t matter.

This hat is made using the V-Stitch and the Half V-Stitch.  The half V-stitch may well be a made up term, but it’s essentially the same stitch as a normal V-Stitch, but using the half double crochet instead of a double crochet.  You can V-Stitch using whatever height stitch you like really, but Google wouldn’t tell me the official name, so I’ve assigned one to it.

The V-Stitch

The V-Stitch is a very easy stitch to master, it is essentially a double crochet, chain 1 and double crochet in the same stitch.  Then you skip a stitch and repeat in the next.  When it comes to the next row, instead of doing the V-Stitch into the double crochet stitch, you do it into the chain 1 space.

A bit like this:

V-Stitch step 1, chain 3

V-Stitch step 1, chain 3

V-Stitch Step 2 - DC into same stitch

V-Stitch Step 2 – DC into same stitch

V-Stitch step 3 - skip 1 stitch, DC into the next stitch

V-Stitch step 3 – skip 1 stitch, DC into the next stitch

V-Stitch Step4 - Chain 1

V-Stitch Step4 – Chain 1

V-Stitch step 5 - DC into the same stitch

V-Stitch step 5 – DC into the same stitch

And there you have it!  The V-Stitch

And there you have it! The V-Stitch

The Half V-Stitch is the same process, using a half double crochet instead.

What you’ll need

Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 in three shades of the same colour.  I used yellow (508, 551, and 655). The best thing you can do is cake the yarn so you can pull from both ends, because for this project we’re using two strands together.

You’ll also need a 5mm crochet hook. scissors and a tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

(American terms)

MR – Magic Ring

DC – Double Crochet

VS – V-Stitch

HVS – Half V-Stitch

Inc – Increase

STS – Stitches (stitch count)

Notes

The beginning of each row begins with a CH3, which counts as the first DC and CH 1 to start your first V-Stitch of the row.  Below I will just use VS, but assume unless described otherwise that the first V-Stitch is a CH3, DC.  Always join into the chain space of the first V-Stitch.

When working the Half V-Stitch, still chain 3 at the beginning of the each row.

Oh, and did I mention that I’m a leftie?

Round 1

Start with a Magic Ring, chain 3 and work 9 DC into the ring, pulling it tight.  You’ll have 10 double crochets for your foundation.

10 DC into a magic ring

Round 2

VS Inc x5.  SLS into the first VS to join = 15 STS

To crochet a V-Stitch Increase, follow the instructions for a normal V-Stitch, but instead add a third V.  So, DC, CH1, DC into the same stitch, CH1, DC into the same stitch again.  Skip 1 stitch and either repeat the increase (as is needed in Round 2) or work an ordinary V-Stitch.

V-Stitch Increase - CH3, DC, CH1 DC, skip 1 stitch, V-Stitch in the next

V-Stitch Increase round

Round 3

(VS Inc, VS) x 5.  SLS into the first VS to join = 25 STS

INC, VS x 5 round

 Round 4

(VS Inc, 2 x VS) x 5.  SLS into the first VS to join = 35 STS

INC, 2VS x 5 Round

Round 5

VS x 20.  SLS into the first VS to join = 40 STS

VS x 20 Round

Round 6

(VS Inc, 3 x VS) x 5.  SLS into the first VS to join = 45 STS

Round 7

VS x 25.  SLS into the first VS to join = 50 STS

Round 8-12

VS x 25.  SLS into the first VS to join = 50 STS

Change colour

Change Colour

Round 13-15

VS x 25.  SLS into the first VS to join = 50 STS

Change Colour
Round 16

VS x 25.  SLS into the first VS to join = 50

Round 17

In this row we start making the brim.  We will count the CH 1 space in the V-Stitch as a stitch.  We will also be adding a few increases to widen the brim.

CH2, (2DC in the next stitch, which is the 1st CH space, then DC in the next 14 Stitches.  Repeat this 4 times and slip stitch to the first CH2 of the round. = 80 STS

DC in each stitch around, adding increases every 14 stitches

Round 18

HVS x 40 = 80 STS

Half VS around

Round 19

HVS x 40 = 80 STS

Finish off and weave in the ends.

Sunburst

To make the sunburst, I experimented with lots of different flowers and picots and nothing really seemed to be right.  So, when I came across this scrubby pattern on Petals to Picots, I realised it would be perfect.  I just grew the sunburst with each colour instead of crocheting the entire base in one go.  Then I just tacked it onto the hat in the right spot.  You can pick up the pattern for free here.

Sunburst attached to Bucketful of Sunshine hat

 

Here’s the finished hat, modelled on my super-cute (just recovering from chicken pox) daughter:

Bucketful of Sunshine hat on missneriss.com - free pattern #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #cotton8 #crochet #freepattern Bucketful of Sunshine hat on missneriss.com, made with Scheepjeswol Cotton 8. #scheepjeswol #cotton8 #scheepjes

You’ve made it to the end, way to go!  I hope you enjoy making this adorable hat as much as I’ve enjoyed designing it.

Watch this space, coming soon are other sizes, including the 3-6 month old which is up next!

For updates and cute photos in the mean time, do follow me on both Facebook and Instagram, and I would be so excited if you would share your own projects with me!

https://www.facebook.com/madebyMissNerisshttp://instagram.com/miss__neriss

 

 

 

Candace Scarf Pattern

Remember a couple of weeks ago when I shared the Candace Scarf that I made for my mum?  Well, in that post I promised a pattern, but of course I completely forgot to follow up until I was reminded at the weekend.  Thanks for that Anke!

You can find the pattern in the description of this pin:

I also promised to tell you how I hacked the pattern as it just didn’t seem to be correct, and I also made it more fluid, so you don’t have to cut and join, which I hate doing!

Below is how the beginning rows of the scarf look:

The beginning rows of the Candace ScarfWhen it comes to joining, the pattern asks you to complete the trim, fasten off, and join at the other side.  I decided to leave the trim out entirely, but you can keep it in if you like.  I just found it unnecessary for my tastes. (I think initially I had run out of yarn, so that was the decider for me.)

So, in the pattern, row four instructs you to make the bows, but instead I completely skipped that row and went on to the next set, because I planned to make the bows using my joining row at the end.  Here’s the last row, waiting to be joined:

The last rows before joiningInstead of sewing the ends together as the pattern instructed me, holding both ends of the scarf together and working through four loops at once (both stitches), I single crocheted in the first three stitches (of both ends), chained 5, single crocheted around the three chains, from the beginning end of the scarf to make a bow, then chained 5 again, single crocheting in the next three stitches (all loops, joining both ends of the scarf).  I repeated this to the end, fastened off and was done.

Candace Scarf on missneriss.com #malabrigo

For me, it just made for a tidier join and also means less ends to weave in!  We all hate weaving in ends, right?

If you want to retain the trim, you can use this method still, by doing the trim down one side, joining across, then going down the other side. Still no need to fasten off and join to continue, so you should be able to make the scarf in one long piece (except when you run out of yarn and have to rejoin).

I made my latest Candace Scarf using Malabrigo Silky Merino, which I picked up from houseofyarn.nl here in the Netherlands.  It is such a gorgeous yarn, I promptly bought half a dozen more skeins.  I have an order to make a black version, and am now on a mission to find the “perfect black”.

Any tips for a simply gorgeous yarn that is hand dyed to show variation and is merino based? (I’m dedicated to merino, having grown up on a merino sheep farm.)