Tag Archives: hand crafted

Miniman’s Nursing Necklace – The Tutorial

As promised, I’ve put together a tutorial on how to make your very own nursing necklace, which is designed to keep small ones occupied while nursing, saving mama’s sensitive skin from sharp fingernails, hair from being yanked, and general mischief making while baby is nursing.  Of course this is not only for nursing mamas; it’s such a lovely necklace that it looks stylish on everybody!

Minimans Nursing Necklace isnt just for nursing mamas! Its a beautiful accessory in its own right! Free crochet tutorial

What you’ll need

Scheepjeswol Cotton 8* in four shades.  I used 527, 711, 652 and 700.  In the Netherlands you can pick Cotton 8 up at just about any great yarn seller, and internationally you can buy via deramores.com*.

A 3mm crochet hook, scissors, and you’ll also need wooden beads in varying sizes.  I used five 35mm balls and two 25mm balls.  For added interest, you can also add a wooden ring or two – babies love the different elements and textures.

IMG_1826Abbreviations

(American terms)

CH – chain stitch
SC – single crochet (UK double crochet)
INC – increase; two single crochet stitches into the same stitch
DEC – decrease; two single crochet stitches together
STS – stitch count

Notes

This project is worked in the round.  You will also need to crochet your stitches very tightly to ensure that they keep the form of the beads.  If you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook.

Don’t forget, I’m a leftie so you might have to flip the images in your mind.  I like to keep the images for us lefties because there just aren’t that many left handed tutorials out there.  If you need help, ping me using the contact page or on Facebook.

Make one ball in the darkest colour, two in the second darkest, two in the third darkest, and two in the lightest (the 25mm balls).

Babies can't resist Miniman's Nursing Necklace from missneriss.com

35mm Bead

Round 1

CH 5, close with a slip stitch, CH 1.

Round 2

SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)

Round 3

INC in each stitch around (12 STS)INC in each stitch around (12 STS)

Round 4

(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)

Round 5

(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)

Round 6-10

SC x 24 (24 STS).  Insert the bead to measure how progress is going at each round.SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)

Round 11

(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.

Round 12

(DEC, 1 SC) x 6 (12 STS).

2014-09-04 19.47.03-1

Round 13

DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)

Finish off and hide the tail.

For the 25mm bead, follow the same instructions, skipping round 5 (and round 11 as a consequence).

Once you’ve finished all five balls in the colour combination of your choice, it’s time to thread them onto a chain.  First you need to make yourself one.  I used the lightest shade and chained stitched until I had about 90 cm.  This way the necklace would have plenty of room to become longer or shorter as necessary.

Thread the beads and tie the ends into a little knot and then together using a slip stitch so that one end can slip easily (but not too easily) to adjust the length of the necklace.

Tie the ends, then join together using a slipknot.

And you’re all done!  Looks beautiful, doesn’t it? Miniman necklace - photo tutorial on missneriss.comI love seeing projects by others, so don’t forget to brag about what you’ve made on my Facebook page or upload to Pinterest, tagging me @missneriss.  Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram while you’re at it!

*Affiliate link

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Jasper V Pattern – XL

 

The Jasper V!  I loved all the ideas so much that everyone came up with, but one that stuck with me was the use of Jasper and V-Neck.  In the end it was simple and the Jasper V has been born!

Today I’m sharing the pattern for the XL size with you.  This is the first garment pattern I’ve written and stay tuned for more sizes.  I just wanted to get this out to you as soon as I possibly could!

So without further ado, let’s get to it!  For any questions, please send me an email using the contact form and I’ll get back to you to assist, OK?  If you find mistakes, please do the same.  Because it’s a free pattern, I’m the only tester so I’m relying on your help – thanks in advance!!

You can also find a printer version right here:

Printer Friendly Version of the Jasper V

This pattern assumes that you know crochet basics, like Chain, Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet and Double Crochet stitches.  You will also need to know how to do the Foundation Single Crochet stitch (FSC).  If you’ve never seen an FSC, you can find a great tutorial video here.  Alongside the FSC, you will also need to know how to do the Mesh Stitch, which is essentially Double Crochet, chain 1, skip 1, Double Crochet into the next stitch.

To keep a beautiful clean straight edge going up the sides, I use this brilliant technique that I found; I recommend you use it too.

All measurements are in centimetres and crochet terms are US based.

This is an original design by Nerissa Muijs.  Please do not reproduce this pattern or sell this pattern as your own work.  Please share it on your social networks, linking it back to the original source.  Please also feel free to sell items made from this pattern and please credit me by linking my website: missneriss.com.  All images are the property of Nerissa Muijs, and if you would like to repost the originals, please send me a message to ask my permission before the fact.

Jasper V - free pattern size XL on missneriss.com #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #jasper

Written Instructions

Abbreviations

FSC:    Foundation Single Crochet
SC:      Single Crochet
HDC:   Half Double Crochet
DC:      Double Crochet
CH:      Chain
SK:      Skip 1 stitch
MS:     Mesh Stitch

Gauge

21 stitches across x 9 rows high = 10cm2

Materials

  • Scheepjeswol Stone Washed (or similar 4 ply/sock) yarn – 1080 metres
  • 5mm hook; or hook to obtain gauge. I crochet tightly, so consider this when making your gauge swatch, which you will need.
  • Tapestry needle to sew in ends and seams.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Measuring tape to ensure that the sizing is correct for your body.
  • Pins (either ordinary pins, or even stitch markers will do).

 Size

This pattern is for a size XL garment.  The finished circumference (bust/hip measurement) is 110cm (43 inches) around and the length from top to bottom is 68cm (27inches).

Instructions

Row 1:  FSC x 105 (55cm)
Row 2:  CH 3 (counts as first DC and chain), skip 1 stitch, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50, DC in the last.  Turn.
Row 3:  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50
Repeat row 3 until your work is 43 cm long (41 rows).

Begin the sleeves:
Chain 35 (18cm), tie off and cut the yarn.
Re-attach at the other side, chain 37.  DC into the 3rd CH, CH1, SK1, DC into the next.  Repeat across to the last stitch of the other sleeve (179 stitches, or about 90cm end to end).  Repeat this row for a total of 3 rows and then start the V-neck.

Mark the middle stitch and crochet to the 2nd DC before the marker.  This becomes the decrease.  CH3 and turn (this counts as DC and SK1).  DC into the next DC stitch.  Crochet across to the edge of the sleeve.  CH3, turn.  Repeat that row, always stopping at the top of the CH 3 from the previous row, for 24 rows (23cm).  Tie off and attach yarn to the other sleeve, repeating the action again.

Once the V is complete, do not tie off.  Instead, MS across to the centre edge of the V.  Chain 48, attach at the first stitch on the other sided of the V and MS to the far edge of the sleeve.  This is now the beginning of the back of the top.

Repeat the MS rows for 26 rows in total; essentially the reverse of the front without the V.  After 26 rows, tie off and re-attach the yarn 37 stitches in.  CH3, SK1, (DC, CH1, SK1) x 50 for 105 stitches, turn and repeat for 41 rows (or 43cm).

Now the body of the top is complete and it is time to create the edging and sew it all together.  Lie the top flat, so that the front and back edges all line up, pin the top together and whip stitch it up both sides and under the sleeves.  Try it on and admire your reflection.  You look awesome.

For the edging, Attach the yarn at the join on one side of the bottom of the top and HDC all the way round (210 in total).  Join, CH2 and repeat.  The final row will be a SC row, just to firm it up and prevent excessive stretch.

The sleeves follow much the same rule.  Join at the seam and HDC around. HDC in the side of each stitch, and also in each space between rows.  Repeat the HDC row, then complete a SC row to finish it off. Do the same for the other sleeve.

With the edging, be sure that you keep your tension to be consistent with the shape of the top.  If the edging is too loose, crochet a little tighter or considering going down a hook size.  Same for if it is too tight.  Blocking will help, but can only do so much if the edging is too tight.

The final piece is the V. there should be 2 DC posts each side of your centre stitch marker.  Attach your yarn to the top of the DC furthest from the centre (this will replicate a CH1 and bring the two edges together) and SC into the first stitch of the V.  SC all the way up the side, crocheting into each stitch and into each gap, ensuring you stitch into the stitches, not around them.  The final stitch should be a Slip Stitch into the top of the DC stitch on the body of the top.  Turn, SC into each stitch around, with the final stitch being a Slip Stitch into the next DC space on the body of the top. Turn and repeat for a total of 5 rows.  Tie off and whip stitch the V together for two or three stitches, to keep the rows at the bottom of the V straight while wearing the top.

Making sure the V sits just right... #scheepjes #scheepjeswol #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet

Tie off, sew in all the ends as securely as possible, soak in Eucalan for a couple of hours then block until dry.  Because it is two layers, allow for a long drying time.

On the blocking board, using my new Knit Pro blocking wires - what a cool idea! #scheepjes #stonewashed #missneriss #crochet #scheepjeswol

Jasper V Diagram - Front

Jasper V - Back

Don’t forget to parade around in front of your friends in your new top, you look amazing!

A peek at what's on the blog tomorrow, don't forget to stop by and check it out! #BigReveal #crochet

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Help!

Project Pile | Is that another Candace Scarf?

Why, yes it is!

Candace Scarf in Lettuce - Malabrigo Worsted

This is a scarf I made for a family friend, and it flew off to Australia with my brother when he went home last week.

This time I used Malabrigo Worsted in Lettuce that I picked up from wolwereld.nl and I also decided to add a border which worked very well too.

Candace Scarf borderInstead of using a particular stitch count, what I did was line my stitches up with the middle of the bows and the mid-point of the space between.

5DC in the same stitch, SC in the mid-stitch between the bows, then 5DC in the middle stitch of the bow.  This ensured that I didn’t have any left over stitches from mis-counting (which can easily happen when you have a long project to border) and it looks great.

I also used the wonderful hack that I found on Mamachee, so I saved a lot of yarn by not having to do a SC round first.  More on that hack in a post coming soon!

Want the pattern? Grab it here:  The Candace Scarf.

Spring Shawl – It’s Huge!

Finished.  After a month of picking it up and putting it down, it’s finally done.  And much more beautiful, and bigger, than I could have anticipated.

Spring Shawl made with Malabrigo Silky Merino on missneriss.com #crochet #yarn

It took a good day to block and dry, and was too big for my blocking board, so I had to break out the yoga mat so it would fit!

I’m just in love with it.  The colour, the texture, how soft it is, it’s a complete package.

Spring Shawl in Malabrigo Silky Merino on missneriss.com #crochet #yarn

Spring Shawl in Malabrigo Silky Merino on missneriss.com #crochet #yarn

And here’s the cutest little photo bomber ever:

Photo bombing

I used Malabrigo Silky Merino in Madre Perla (four skeins) that I picked up from houseofyarn.nl.  This shade is sold out, but there are lots of other beautiful ones to choose from.

I used the Spring Shawl pattern that I posted here and added a row of double crochets and picots for the edging because I found the original pattern finally!!!!

Crochet Teething Bead Necklace

When asked to make a teething necklace by a friend, I couldn’t get to my my local craft quick enough. I was on my bike before the request was even in.

Here’s what I came out with:

Yarn and beads to make the teething necklace

The idea behind the teething necklace is to give a baby a safe and interesting distraction while breastfeeding.  The baby can play with the balls and feel the different textures instead of digging their sharp little fingernails into already sensitive and tender skin.  I wish I’d thought of it when I was breastfeeding.

I wasn’t really sure what I was going to do, and how I was going to do it, but I decided to wing it and see what evolved.  And here’s what did:

Crochet teething necklace on missneriss.com #baby #crochet #teething

Crochet teething necklace on missneriss.com #baby #crochet #teethingI made it as simple as I possibly could, and also so that the beads could be taken off and rearranged into what ever style or colour combo that takes your fancy.  I love it.  The next one will be a rainbow coloured one.  Just need more beads!

Wink’s Summer Hearts Mandala

If you only follow one new blog this year, you must make sure it is A Creative Being.  Everything about Wink’s blog is beautiful.  The projects, the colours, the photography, everything.  It’s just one amazing package of crochet goodness. I have a few of her patterns, including the Design Wars shortlisted entry Dancing Hearts Wrap and most recently, the Summer Hearts Mandala which is gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! I wanted to create the mandala in line with the Crochet Collective’s Mandala Crochet Along, but I’m just useless at sticking with timelines, my life is just too busy, plus I really wanted to make this mandala as my first, and it wasn’t on their schedule (but there are some extraordinary ones, so check it out). So, I decided to sit down one night and smash it out.  And smash it out I did.  It’s a seriously fast pattern to work up, and it looks amazing.  I had the yarn and colours that Wink used (or close enough to) on hand and I couldn’t imagine using anything else. The finished mandala with the tension being too tight But I had a problem.  It’s difficult to see above, but instead of lying flat, the mandala has curled edges.  See what I mean? Mandala, tension too tight on missneriss.comSo I decided to leave it for the night as it was late and I was tired, and I wanted to fix it in the morning when I was feeling fresh again. The problem I have is that although I was using the exact same yarn, and the exact same hook as the pattern, my tension is far tighter than Winks, so the edges curled up on me.  This is a result of all the amigurumi projects I’ve been focusing on – you have to crochet tight so as to keep the stitches close together (I usually use at least one hook size down than what the yarn calls for). Here’s how I hold my yarn, how do you hold yours?  See how tightly wrapped around my little finger it is? Here's how I hold my yarn, super tight tension after so many amigurumi projects.But instead of frogging the entire project, I decided to just rip out the last couple of rows, to where it started to curl. The offending rowThis is the row that was causing the problem, before that I was progressing beautifully. I decided that because it’s difficult for me to loosen my tension (old habits die hard, right?), I would go up half a hook size and try my best. Changing from a 4mm to a 4.5mm hook to complete the projectI love my Clover hooks, they are the single best crochet related purchase I’ve made so far. And here we go!  The finished mandala! Summer Hearts Mandala by A Creative Being on missneriss.comSee how beautifully flat it lies now? It has a slight curve, a bit like a saucer, but I think that’s the intention, and I love it. See how it lies flat?  Perfect Summer Hearts Mandala on missneriss.comThe Summer Hearts Mandala was a beautiful project to make, I’m definitely going to be making more, and will experiment with different colours. Would you like me to make you one? By all means feel free to get in contact, I’d be honoured. Have you made any mandalas?  Which pattern is your favourite? There are so many to choose from and they’re all beautiful.

Candace Scarf Pattern

Remember a couple of weeks ago when I shared the Candace Scarf that I made for my mum?  Well, in that post I promised a pattern, but of course I completely forgot to follow up until I was reminded at the weekend.  Thanks for that Anke!

You can find the pattern in the description of this pin:

I also promised to tell you how I hacked the pattern as it just didn’t seem to be correct, and I also made it more fluid, so you don’t have to cut and join, which I hate doing!

Below is how the beginning rows of the scarf look:

The beginning rows of the Candace ScarfWhen it comes to joining, the pattern asks you to complete the trim, fasten off, and join at the other side.  I decided to leave the trim out entirely, but you can keep it in if you like.  I just found it unnecessary for my tastes. (I think initially I had run out of yarn, so that was the decider for me.)

So, in the pattern, row four instructs you to make the bows, but instead I completely skipped that row and went on to the next set, because I planned to make the bows using my joining row at the end.  Here’s the last row, waiting to be joined:

The last rows before joiningInstead of sewing the ends together as the pattern instructed me, holding both ends of the scarf together and working through four loops at once (both stitches), I single crocheted in the first three stitches (of both ends), chained 5, single crocheted around the three chains, from the beginning end of the scarf to make a bow, then chained 5 again, single crocheting in the next three stitches (all loops, joining both ends of the scarf).  I repeated this to the end, fastened off and was done.

Candace Scarf on missneriss.com #malabrigo

For me, it just made for a tidier join and also means less ends to weave in!  We all hate weaving in ends, right?

If you want to retain the trim, you can use this method still, by doing the trim down one side, joining across, then going down the other side. Still no need to fasten off and join to continue, so you should be able to make the scarf in one long piece (except when you run out of yarn and have to rejoin).

I made my latest Candace Scarf using Malabrigo Silky Merino, which I picked up from houseofyarn.nl here in the Netherlands.  It is such a gorgeous yarn, I promptly bought half a dozen more skeins.  I have an order to make a black version, and am now on a mission to find the “perfect black”.

Any tips for a simply gorgeous yarn that is hand dyed to show variation and is merino based? (I’m dedicated to merino, having grown up on a merino sheep farm.)

Minion 2.0

My love for minions never ends.  A couple of weeks ago I shared with you a new minion in progress here, and now he’s finished and has relocated to his new Gru!

Minion Madness, found on missneriss.com

I’m so happy with the way he turned out, I think he’s even better than the first one I made.  The next phase is to write a pattern for him so I can share the minion goodness with everyone!

Hello Minion! Found on missneriss.com

 

He’s much bigger than other minions I’ve made, and quite a bit fatter.  He’s the perfect size for a toddler to play with, and sturdy enough that he doesn’t have to sit on a shelf out of reach.  He’s a real toy.

I used Drops Paris in yellow and denim and some scrap in white, grey and black for the detailing.  I used felt for the mouth and a 10mm safety eye.

 

You can also see more pics, and follow me, on Instagram:

Finished another minion, one eye instead of two, a bit shorter and fatter, perhaps even a bit cuter. #minion #amigurumi

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Learning Curves

I’m a great subscriber to the idea that you learn something new every day.  Especially in the art of crochet.  There are so many amazing techniques and resources that you are hard pressed not to learn new stuff all the time.

But I learned something I didn’t want to have to learn.  The hard way.  And I’m not happy about it.  Gauge.  In all the projects I’ve ever made, I’ve just happily skipped over the gauge section as being quite irrelevant and firmly in the “who cares” category until it came time to make a beautiful top.

My friend Tammy showed me this pattern that she planned to make, and I was immediately on the bandwagon:

Convergence top, pattern from Interweave Crochet, found on Ravelry via missneriss.com

So, I picked out the yarn, an amazing bamboo veriagated yarn from Alize and started crocheting.

The pattern calls for a 3.75mm hook and the pesky gauge tells me I should have 18 stitches and 11 rows per 10cm.  Yeah, whatevs.  I managed to crochet more than half the back of the top before I realised that it wasn’t going to come even close to fitting me!  This top had taken a day and a half of my precious crochet time and it was completely wasted because I didn’t bother to pay attention to the gauge.

So I decided to take a step back for a couple of days and finish off the backlog of orders in my queue (which was a great thing to do, because they’re all super cute projects) and then re-evaluate.

So how have I resolved this?  Well, luckily for me I didn’t buy the Noro Taiyo Sock yarn at 20 euros a piece, and the Alize was significantly cheaper, so I’ve created a swatch, have blocked it, and am (im)patiently waiting for it to dry so I can start again.  It’s looking like I’ll be up to a 4.5mm hook to get the right gauge.

New swatch blocked and waiting to dry

The colourway of this yarn is just amazing, with the pinks (that don’t appear here), purples, blues and white and is so lovely to the touch and to work with.  You can pick it up (in Europe) at yarnstreet.com and check out the Ravelry projects that people have completed using my colourway (you may need to be a Ravelry member to see that link).

What’s a crucial element that you’ve learned the hard way?  I’d love to hear that I’m not the only one having silly moments.

New Design: King’s Day Bunting Necklace

Holland’s biggest party for the last 100 or so years – Queen’s Day – has been given a revamp.  You see, last year Beloved Queen Beatrix decided to retire, and her son, Prince Willem Alexander became the first King of the Netherlands in more than 100 years.

Not only do we have a new word to learn – Koningsdag instead of Koniniginnendag (try saying that three times fast), we have a new day to celebrate – 26 April instead of 30 April.  Well, I don’t know if this is the permanent date, or just the first date.  You see, King Willem Alexander’s birthday falls on 27 April, which this year is a Sunday and he’s decided we can all celebrate on the Saturday instead.

Still with me?

So, to celebrate the first King’s Day, I’ve created a new design!

King's Day Bunting necklace, available on missneriss.com #koningsdag #koninginnendag

Want to get your hands on one?  Well, you can!  I’m making these for the lead up to King’s Day and they’re available to buy from my Etsy Store!

The necklace is €15 euros (plus shipping if you need it) and is made from a nickel-free silver plated chain and delicate cotton yarn.