Are you ready to get started on Your Last Slippers?
I know I keep saying it, but these babies truly are the last slippers you’ll need. I’ve made loads of pairs with different patterns over the years, and they always stretch out of shape, or don’t stay on my feet, or are complicated to make. These are none of those things. They’ll always stay on thanks to the firm ankle opening, they’re designed to stretch so they’ll fit all feet, and they’re warm.
The free pattern below uses UK crochet terminology. There is also a printer friendly PDF version available on Ravelry for a small fee, which includes US terms and a chart.
Again, for the Dutchies, a translation is coming, but it always takes me a bit longer. Sit tight, I’ll get there. Thanks for your patience!
Shop the Yarn
Want to get your hands on Chunky Monkey for yourself?
1 (2) balls of Scheepjes Chunky Monkey in your colour choice (samples made in 1435 magenta, 2002 orange and 2018 dark grey)
5mm (H-8) hook
Tapestry needle
Blocking mats and pins
Measurements
Kids: 20cm heel to toe
Adults: 23cm heel to toe
Tension
14 sts and 12 rows to measure 10 x 10 cm over htr3lo st, but tension is not important for this project.
Abbreviations
(UK terms) Ch chain Sts stitches dc double crochet htr half treble crochet htr3lo half treble crochet in 3rd loop only dc2tog 2 double crochet stitches decreasing into one stitch Ss slip stitch
(RS) (WS) right side/wrong side Rep repeat
Notes
This pattern is two sizes fits all, one for kids, and one for adults. The kids sizes will fit between the ages of about 5 and 10, and then the adult sizes should fit. However, it’s easy to customise the fit, by adding or removing stitches and rows for bigger or smaller feet.
The pattern is worked back and forth in rows to make the body of the foot and sole, then the piece is turned 90 degrees to work the tops of the feet, then the piece is slip stitched together and finished.
The kid’s size will be described, with stitch/row counts in parentheses for the adults. Eg. ch21 (31) or rep row for a total of 20 (22) rows.
Instructions
(Make two) Row 1 ch 21 (31), dc into second ch from the hook, htr to last, dc in last ch, turn.[20 (30)sts] Row 2 ch1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), dc, htr3lo to the last, dc last, turn .[20 (30)sts].
ow 2 for a total of 20 (22) rows .[20 (30)sts]. Row 21 (23) (RS) Turn work 90 degrees, ss in each row across to have 20 (22) sts, turn Row 22 (24) (WS) ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), dc in all stitches across, turn [20 (22)sts] Row 23 (25) (RS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [18 (20)sts] Row 24 (26) (WS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [16 (18)sts] Rows 25 (27)-31 (32) rep row 24 7 (8) times until the stitch count is 2.
Tie off, cut yarn.
Turn work 180 degrees, and ensuring that you work on the RS, attach yarn to the opposite corner and repeat rows 21 (23) to rows 31 (32). Do not tie off.
Assembly
Take your work and fold it in half, triangle edges together, RS facing each other. Using the yarn that is not tied off, ss down one side of the triangle, and then all the way to the bottom. Tie off. This has formed the toe.
Now working at the heel, join the yarn at the bottom, ss the two sides together to the start of the triangle. Now turn the slipper the right way out, and leaving an opening for the foot, dc in each row around, working a dc2tog at the top of the triangle. SS to join. Cut yarn, weave in all ends.
There are a couple of points where you can adjust the foot opening in that round; you can skip the dc2tog to make a slightly looser fit, or you can work a second dc2tog at the heel before joining.
To make a larger size, add rows in multiples of two in the first stage. This will also make your triangles larger, but you can skip sts while slip stitching across the in the foundation triangle row to give the slipper more length but a firmer top.
23 sts and 14 rows (in pattern) to measure 10 x 10 cm (4in) using a 4mm (G) hook
Abbreviations
(UK terms)
Ch chain Miss miss instructed number of stitches Htr half treble crochet 2htrcl 2 half treble cluster (see notes) HtrInc Half treble increase (2 htr in the same stitch)
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, worked back and forth in rows, increasing at one side only. The shawl will become a large triangle.
Repeat instructions between brackets (…) where instructed.
Ch2 at the beginning of each row, this does not count as a stitch throughout.
The 2htrcl at the end of each second row is to straighten the edge, making a border redundant. To work the 2htrcl, yarn over hook, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
Stitch counts are deliberately left out of this pattern to condense the length. Each row will increase by one stitch. Remember, when working a fast lane (htr, ch1, miss 1) row, you should always have an odd stitch count. The return row will be even.
Instructions
Row 1 Ch3, 2htr in the third ch from the hook, turn. Row 2 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), htr in the same, ch1, 2htrcl in the last. Turn Row 3 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr in the ch space, htrInc in the last, turn. Row 4 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, htr next, ch1, miss 1, 2htrcl in the last, turn. Row 5 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, (htr in ch space, htr), repeat to and into second last, htrInc. Row 6 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 7 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 five more times.
Now work the slow lanes:
Row 18 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htrInc in the same, htr to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 19 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last, htrInc. Row 20 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl Row 21 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc
Repeat rows 18-21 twice more.
Now work in the following sets:
(Repeat rows 6 and 7 seven times, then repeat rows 18-21 three times), which will create one full set of fast and slow lanes.
Continue in these sets until there is just enough yarn so that you will finish with a slow lane. Do not finish on a row 6/7 repeat alone. If the tension has been matched, there will only be a small amount of yarn left over. Weave in ends and block to size.
I’ve updated the the rainBOOM! Wrap pattern, just in time to kick off the #rainBOOMMAL in collaboration with Scheepjes. Is this the first you’ve heard of it? All the info can be found in this post.
Before we start, if you’re looking for the version which uses UK terms go here, and the Dutch translation can be found here.
In this version you can find the pattern using UK terminology. I also have a tips and tricks post (which will be online Wednesday 30th Jan) which talks about all the little things that you may find to be a bit challenging, including a couple of short videos which should help if you get stuck at all.
Ready to go?
Materials
One Stone Washed River Washed Colour Pack (all fifty colours) 5mm crochet hook Tapestry needle Blocking mats/pins
Measurements
Original version: 200cm point to point (78 ¾ in) x 50cm (19 ½ in) wide Extended version: 220cm point to point (86 1/2 in) x 50cm (19 ½ in) wide
Tension
16 stitches by 8.5 rows in 10cm by 10cm (4in) using a 5mm (H) hook in pattern.
Abbreviations
(US Terms) DC double crochet Ch chain stitch Inc increase – two double crochet stitches in one stitch DC2tog decrease – double crochet made over 2 stitches from previous row. (…) repeat instructions between brackets as directed. [801] denotes colour number from the yarn label.
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, designed touse all 50 colours of the Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed colourpack.
The wrap will be constructed in two pieces,working back and forth in rows. First making two triangles, then diagonal rows,and finally joining the two pieces and adding tassels from the leftovers. There will be minimal yarn left over, so do payattention to your tension. Use either colour 801 or 803 and make a swatch.
At the start of each row you should ch2, thiswill not count as a stitch throughout. At the end of each row you should turnyour work. The instruction is only mentioned in rows 1 and 2, as a reminder.
While making the triangle, the rows willincrease by 3 stitches each side (6 per row), with an increase at the flatedge, and in the ch space. Weave in your ends as you go, this will vastlyreduce the amount of work at the end of the project.
Where the colour number is noted at the beginning of a row [801], you should tie off at the previous row and start using the next colour.
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, inc in the last, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[821] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[820] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[836] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[835] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[943] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[945] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[942] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[807] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[946] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[823] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[944] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[816] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[947] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[834] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[817] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[833] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[809] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[832] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[812] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
Tie off, start new triangle. Repeat rows 1-35 inthe following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magicring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, incin the last st, turn.
Inc,4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[802]Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc,10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc,13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[829]Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc,19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc,22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[822]Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc,28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc,31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[804]Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC, inc
Inc,37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc,40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[831]Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc,46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[814]Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc,52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[811]Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc,58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[810]Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc,64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[808]Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc,70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[818]Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[830]Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[949]Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[941]Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[950]Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[805]Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[828]Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[813]Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[824]Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[952]Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
[948]Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, DC2tog in lastst and ch space, turn
Ch2, DC2tog, DC to last stitch, inc in the last st, turn
Inc,DC up to the 2nd last stitch, DC2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a setof three rows) 8 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
[815] [825] [953] [951] [954] [826] [806] [819]
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [827], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Don’t pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Extended Colour Pack Instructions
Since the original release of this Pattern,Scheepjes has added eight new river washed colours to their colour packs. To take full advantage of that, here are theinstructions to make the extended RainBOOM!
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2,2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the chspace, DC, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[821] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[820] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[836] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[835] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[943] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[945] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[942] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[807] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[946] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[823] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[956] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[944] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[961] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[816] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[947] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[960] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[834] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[817] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[833] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
Tie off, start new triangle. Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[802] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[829] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[822] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[804] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[831] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[814] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[811] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[810] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[957] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[808] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[818] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[830] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[949] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[941] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[950] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[805] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[828] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[813] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[824] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
[952] Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, DC2tog in last st and ch space, turn.
Ch 2 DC2tog, DC up to the last stitch, inc, turn.
Ch 2, Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch, DC2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off.
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as aset of three rows) 16 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the followingorder:
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [809],then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the longedge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Do not pull thestitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Tassels
Separating the leftover colours from piece one and piece two, cut 30-40cm lengths, and double stranded, knot tassels in each stitch along both short (diagonal) sides. Adjust spacing according to the amount of remaining yarn. Block to size, enjoy!
Chart
Do note: the chart is just an example of how you should begin, and how the diagonal rows are worked. Please do not follow this exactly from the start, but instead use it as a guide
Or you could check out my designer store on Deramores.com* – where you can get your hands on the kit AND a pdf of the pattern at the same time. They also ship worldwide, so that’s a win-win!
Now, I do hope you’re joining the #rainBOOMMAL that’s running through all of February 2019. In collaboration with the amazing people at Scheepjes, we’ll be crocheting together, from all corners of the world, bringing some more colour into our lives.
I’ve updated the the rainBOOM! Wrap pattern, just in time to kick off the #rainBOOMMAL in collaboration with Scheepjes. Is this the first you’ve heard of it? All the info can be found in this post.
Before we start, if you’re looking for the version which uses US terms go here, and the Dutch translation can be found here.
In this version you can find the pattern using UK terminology. I also have a tips and tricks post (this will be live on Wednesday 30th January) which talks about all the little things that you may find to be a bit challenging, including a couple of short videos which should help if you get stuck at all.
Ready to go?
Materials
One Stone Washed River Washed Colour Pack (all fifty colours) 5mm crochet hook Tapestry needle Blocking mats/pins
Measurements
Original version: 200cm (point to point) x 50cm wide Extended version: 220cm (point to point) x 50cm wide
Tension
16 stitches by 8.5 rows in 10cm by 10cmusing a 5mm hook
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Tr treble crochet Ch chain stitch Inc increase – two treble crochet stitches in one stitch Tr2tog decrease – Treble crochet made over 2 stitches from previous row. (…) repeat instructions between brackets as directed. [801] denotes colour number from the yarn label.
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, designed touse all 50 colours of the Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed colourpack.
The wrap will be constructed in two pieces,working back and forth in rows. First making two triangles, then diagonal rows,and finally joining the two pieces and adding tassels from the leftovers. There will be minimal yarn left over, so do payattention to your tension. Use either colour 801 or 803 and make a swatch.
At the start of each row you should ch2, thiswill not count as a stitch throughout. At the end of each row you should turnyour work. The instruction is only mentioned in rows 1 and 2, as a reminder.
While making the triangle, the rows willincrease by 3 stitches each side (6 per row), with an increase at the flatedge, and in the ch space. Weave in your ends as you go, this will vastlyreduce the amount of work at the end of the project.
Where the colour number is noted at the beginning of a row [801], you should tie off at the previous row and start using the next colour.
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2,2tr in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr,inc in the last, turn.
Inc, 4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[821] Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc, 10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc, 13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[820] Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc, 19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc, 22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[836] Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc, 28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc, 31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[835] Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc, 37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc, 40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[943] Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc, 46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[945] Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc, 52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[942] Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc, 58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[807] Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc, 64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[946] Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc, 70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[823] Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[944] Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[816] Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[947] Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[834] Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[817] Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[833] Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[809] Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[832] Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[812] Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
Tie off, start new triangle Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magicring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, incin the last st, turn.
Inc,4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[802]Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc,10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc,13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[829]Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc,19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc,22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[822]Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc,28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc,31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[804]Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr, inc
Inc,37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc,40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[831]Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc,46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[814]Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc,52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[811]Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc,58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[810]Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc,64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[808]Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc,70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[818]Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[830]Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[949]Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[941]Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[950]Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[805]Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[828]Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[813]Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[824]Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[952]Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
[948]Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, tr2tog in lastst and ch space, turn
Ch2, Tr2tog, tr to last stitch, inc in the last st, turn
Inc,tr up to the 2nd last stitch, tr2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a set of three rows) 8 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
[815] [825] [953] [951] [954] [826] [806] [819]
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [827], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Don’t pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Extended Colour Pack Instructions
Since the original release of this Pattern,Scheepjes has added eight new river washed colours to their colour packs. To take full advantage of that, here are theinstructions to make the extended RainBOOM!
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[821] Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc, 10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc, 13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[820] Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc, 19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc, 22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[836] Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc, 28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc, 31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[835] Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc, 37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc, 40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[943] Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc, 46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[945] Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc, 52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[942] Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc, 58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[807] Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc, 64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[946] Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc, 70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[823] Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[956] Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[944] Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[961] Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[816] Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[947] Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[960] Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[834] Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[817] Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[833] Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
Tie off, start new triangle Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magicring, turn.
Ch2,inc in the 1st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, inc in the last st,turn.
Inc,4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[802]Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc,10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc,13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[829]Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc,19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc,22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[822]Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc,28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc,31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[804]Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc,37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc,40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[831]Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc,46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[814]Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc,52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[811]Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc,58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[810]Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc,64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[957]Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc,70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[808]Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[818]Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[830]Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[949]Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[941]Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[950]Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[805]Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[828]Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[813]Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[824]Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2,2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
[952]Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, tr2tog in lastst and ch space, turn.
Ch2 Tr2tog, tr up to the last stitch, inc, turn.
Ch2, Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch, tr2tog in last 2 stitches, tieoff.
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a setof three rows) 16 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [809], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Do not pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Tassels
Separating the leftover colours from piece one and piece two, cut 30-40cm lengths, and double stranded, knot tassels in each stitch along both short (diagonal) sides. Adjust spacing according to the amount of remaining yarn. Block to size, enjoy!
Chart
Do note: the chart is just an example of how you should begin, and how the diagonal rows are worked. Please do not follow this exactly from the start, but instead use it as a guide.
Or you could check out my designer store on Deramores.com* – where you can get your hands on the kit AND a pdf of the pattern at the same time. They also ship worldwide, so that’s a win-win!
Now, I do hope you’re joining the #rainBOOMMAL that’s running through all of February 2019. In collaboration with the amazing people at Scheepjes, we’ll be crocheting together, from all corners of the world, bringing some more colour into our lives.
Just in time for Christmas, I’m sharing my latest free pattern with you!
While I was making this, I kept wondering what I should call it. I was hoping for a yoga related name, as I’m using Scheepjes Namaste, but as soon as I tried it on it felt like a warm hug. And then because I have a young kid, all I could hear in my head (over and over again, omg) was “I’m Olaf, and I like warm hugs,” so I couldn’t call this anything but Olaf (the warm shrug)!
What you’ll need for this pattern is 7 balls of Scheepjes Namaste in your favourite colour and a 10mm hook. I used Warrior (614). I also deliberately made this a one size fits all design and the size that fits me (XL) fits my husband and several friends I asked to try it on for me. If you’re a very small person, it may well be too large for you, but there are some tips on how to resize it if you would like to make it smaller.
The pattern below is written in UK crochet terms, but if you prefer US terms I have a separate PDF for both versions for a small fee to download from my Ravelry store. That version is print friendly, and there is also a printer/e-reader friendly version for the UK terms as well for a small fee.
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Ch chain stitch Htr half treble crochet Tr treble crochet Trtcl treble crochet tiny cluster Tr2tog treble crochet two together (decrease) InV inverted v-stitch (see notes) […] (…) repeat instructions between brackets the required number of times. Rep repeat SS slip stitch
Notes
Olaf (the warm shrug) is designed to be one size fits most, but by adjusting the sleeve length, you’ll be able to make it smaller, or larger. There will be information on how to do that at the end of the instructions.
The shrug is created back and forth in rows, then the corners are folded in and stitched together to make the lapels and yoke, then we attach a collar and sleeves.
The InV stitch is an inverted V-stitch: YO, insert hook, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, miss 1, YO, insert hook, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through all loops.
Instructions
Body
Ch 89 (84 +5), mark the 43rd stitch for later, and leave a 40cm tail for sewing the sides (you can roll this up and poke it in through some stitches to hold it out of the way).
Trtcl in the 3rd ch from the hook, tr to last, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr [ch2, miss 2, tr next] to last, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr, ch 1 [miss 2 (tr, ch 1, tr in next tr)] to last 4, ch 1, miss 2, tr, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr, ch 2 [InV, ch 2] to last 2, tr, trtcl last. Ch 2, turn. Repeat rows 3-5 9 times
Trtcl, tr, [2 tr in the ch sp, tr next] to last, trtcl. Tie off, leave 40cm tail.
Fold top and bottom corners into meet in the middle, and using the long tails, whip stitch the from the outside corners toward the fold for 10 cm. Repeat for the other side. Take care that you will be able to work 18 trebles into the opening (the gaps between rows) when making the sleeves.
Sleeves
Make 2
Join at the seam with a standing tr, ch1 (or ss to join and ch 4), [tr in the next space between rows, ch1] repeat around, ss to join. You should have 18 trebles. If not, adjust your stitch placement accordingly.
Ss into the ch space, ch 2, tr next ch sp, ch 1 [tr2tog in same sp and next sp, missing the treble in between, ch 1] repeat to last tr2tog in the last sp and 1st sp, ch 1, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, tr same sp, [ch 1, tr next sp], repeat to last, ss to join. Note, there is no ch between the last and 1st trebles, this is a decrease.
Ss to ch sp, ch 2, tr next ch sp, ch 1, [tr2tog in the same sp and next sp, missing the treble in between], repeat to last ch sp, ch 1, tr2tog in the last sp and 1st sp, skipping 2 trebles. Ch 1, ss to join.
Repeat round 3
Repeat round 4
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, tr, ch 1, [tr next ch sp, ch 1] repeat to end, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 2, tr next sp, ch 1 [tr2tog in the same and next sp, missing treble in between, ch 1], rep to last, tr2tog last sp and 1st sp, ch 1, ss to 1st tr.
Repeat round 7
Repeat round 8
Ss to sp, ch 1, 2 htr in the same sp, [2 htr in the next sp] repeat to last, ss to join.
Repeat round 11. Tie off.
Note: to make the shrug smaller, you can make the join seam longer. This will make the lapels and collar wider, and you will need to work fewer rounds on the sleeves (skip rows 9 and 10).
Your stitch count in round 1 will also be less, but the instructions for rest of the rounds will work if you have fewer trebles as well.
If you like, you can omit the sleeves altogether, and instead work rows 1, 11 and 12 to make a cuff.
Collar
Starting at the marker from the very first row, count and mark the 18th stitch in each direction. This is the bottom of the shrug. Note: Make sure you check to hold the work the right way out, so the sleeves won’t be inside out.
Join at middle marker with a standing tr (or ch 3), ch 1, tr in the same st, [miss 2, (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to marker, remove marker, [miss 1, (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to marker, remove marker, [miss 2 (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to last, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, [tr, ch 1, tr same] in the same space, [tr, ch 1, tr same] in the next ch space, and to the last, ss to join.
Repeat round 2, mark the join, tie off.
Count 16 V-stitches (tr, ch1, tr) and join with an ss to the next ch sp. Ch 2, [dc, ch 1, dc] next ch sp, [htr, ch 1, htr] next ch sp, [tr, ch 1, tr] next 46 spaces, [htr, ch 1, htr] next ch sp, [dc, ch 1, dc] next ch sp, ch 2, ss in the next ch sp, tie off.
Weave in ends, block gently if desired.
Feel free to add an oversized button where the sleeves are seamed if you want to close it like a jacket.
Chart
What do you think? Do you like warm hugs? I’d love you to make this, and you can purchase the yarn from a bunch of great retailers. Scheepjes lists all the shops on their website, and if you’re in the Netherlands I recommend my local yarn store, Caro’s Atelier*.
So I told you that I have a quick hat in Namaste in the works, and last week I showed you a photo. Today I have the pattern for you, and it’s so easy you can work it up in an hour or so, tops!
We have two sizes, the smaller is perfect for my almost 7 year old, and because it’s a stretchy yarn, it will fit smaller or bigger kids, and the other is to fit adults. It’s a firm, warm fit on me, so slouchy for kids. Again, the yarn has loads of give, so there are no problems with fit.
This pattern is written using UK crochet terms, but if you prefer US terminology, or would like to have a printer/e-reader friendly version of this pattern, it’s also available in my Ravelry store for a small fee.
Two sizes: to fit child 5-10, and to fit older child and adult
Tension
Not important, but the adult size will use the entire skein. If you’re making both and want to make the adult longer, there will be plenty left over from the kid’s size.
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Ch chain stitch Dc double crochet Tr treble crochet […] repeat instructions between brackets the required number of times. SS slip stitch Fptr front post treble crochet Bptr back post treble crochet
Notes
This is a granny stitch style hat, worked in rounds, slip stitching to join each round. The pattern outlines two sizes, the smaller will fit most children from about 5 years old and the larger size will fit teens through to adults. Each size uses one skein of yarn, with plenty left over after the children’s size.
Instructions
Adult and child Ch 4, ss to join.
CH 3, (counts as 1st stitch and ch 1), tr in the ring, ch 1 [2tr, ch1], x 4. skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to the ch space, dc in the ch space, ch1 (counts as the 1st tr of the round), tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, [2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr] in the next ch space], x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, dc in ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, 2 tr in the next space, ch 1 [3 tr in the next, ch 1, 2 tr in the next, ch 1] x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr, ch 1, [3 tr in the next space, ch 1] x 9, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join. Skip to round 14 to finish child size.
Adult ss to ch space, dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), [2 tr, ch 1, 3 tr in the same space] ch1, [3 tr in the next space, ch 1] x 4, [3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr] in the next, ch 1, [3 tr next, ch 1] x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join
Ss to the ch space dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same, ch 1, [3 tr, ch 1] x 2, [3 tr, ch 1, 2 tr] in the next, [3 tr, ch 1] x 5, [3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr] next, ch 1, [ch 3, ch 1] x 2, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, sc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, [3 tr, ch1 in the next] x 13, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Ch 3, tr, skip the ch space, [dc x 3, sk space] x 13, sk space, dc, ss to top of ch 3
Ch 3, bptr next, [fptr, bptr] repeat to last, ss to join.
Repeat round 15, ss to join, tie off and weave in ends.
There you have it!
There are several places I can recommend you purchase the yarn, here are some of them:
Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* ship internationally, Caro’s Atelier* has everything you need in the Benelux and Europe, Knotty House* stocks Namaste in North America (US and Canada), plus there are hundreds of great retailers all over the place who stock Scheepjes yarns. If they don’t have Namaste in stock, give them a friendly nudge 😉
At around 2 metres end to end, and nice and deep, she wraps around beautifully.
And tucks in to keep your neck warm and lifts your outfit – a flat out fabulous winter accessory!
Using the larger than recommended needle size has increased the squish factor a thousand fold. I hadn’t realised that the Scheepjes Stone Washed/River Washed could be so smooshy!
She’s become my number one shawl since the weather turned. I can’t get enough of these two colours (Steenbras and Yarra) together, and she’s so warm! The fuzz traps heat like nobody’s business.
She’s also my new favourite dog walking shawl, we have a blast!
So I’ve been busy writing the pattern, and you won’t believe it, but I was halfway through transcribing my instructions, when they just stopped. The entire second half has just gone poof! into thin air. No idea where I put the notes, but luckily I have all the key points. So the pattern will still be ready next week, I can’t wait to share it with you.
In preparation for the free pattern, you’ll need 3 balls of steenbras and 4 balls of Yarra.
If you’re here to access the rainBOOM! Wrap pattern today 21 January and the links below don’t work, that’s because I’ve been busy behind the scenes to update them.
The patterns will be available again Tuesday 22 January at 7 am CET.
Here it is, laid out on the ground to give you an idea of the size. I didn’t have a $20 note for scale, so the bunny (who has serious FOMO and has to be in the middle of everything) will have to do 😉
This pattern is worked in rounds, with each round being worked in the opposite direction to create the braided effect. It is also based on a three stitch repeat, so to increase or decrease the circumference, add or subtract stitches in sets of threes.
Repeat instructions between *…* the stated number of times.
The stitch itself is also very simple, but can be awkward to get the hang of in the beginning. The first stitch of the round is a ch 3, which counts as a treble. The next stitch is a 4 loop puff stitch (yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loops), however this is worked through a stitch two stitches back. The next stitch of the round is then worked three stitches forward from the original starting chain. More on this in the instructions.
It’s important to remember that this design makes use of almost all of the yarn, there will be very little left over, so pay close attention to your tension. There are four rounds of each colour, so if there are concerns about yardage and tension, work two quick rounds in pattern and weigh your work. If more than 50% of the ball is used, check and adjust the tension/hook.
Instructions
With C1 ch99. Ss to join.
Ch3 (counts as a tr), *skip 1 chain backwards, ps in the previous chain. Ch1, skip 4, tr in the next.* (There should be two skipped chains between the ch3 and the next treble.) Repeat 32x, ss to the top of the puff stitch (not the chain) to join.
Turn, ch3. *ps in the last treble from the previous round (skip one stitch backwards), ch1, tr in the top of the next ps* repeat 32x. ss to the top of the 1st ps of the round. Tie off, weave in ends.
Change to C2, repeat round 2, working in the opposite direction to row 3 so the puff stitches will slant in the opposite direction.
Repeat round 3, tie off, weave in ends.
Change to C3, repeat round 2, working in the opposite direction to row 3 so the puff stitches will slant in the opposite direction.
Repeat round 3, tie off, weave in ends.
Change to C2, repeat round 2, working in the opposite direction to row 3 so the puff stitches will slant in the opposite direction.
Repeat round 3, tie off, weave in ends.
Change to C1, repeat round 2, working in the opposite direction to row 3 so the puff stitches will slant in the opposite direction.
Repeat round 3, tie off, weave in ends.
Change to C3, ss in each stitch around, tie off, weave in ends.
With C3, repeat round 12 in the starting chain.
Tie off, make sure all your ends are woven in. This project doesn’t need to be blocked, but blocking improves every crochet project, so it’s recommended.
There you go!
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Photo Tutorial
Round 1
ETA: **Note: the below photos shows us that there is a round of DC (US SC), but this is just for the photo purposes. You should work the first round into the chain you made**
Continue around,
Round 2
Continue around, ss to the top of the first puff stitch.
Ah, February. Even after all these years, I am still not used to a cold birthday month. I yearn for long warm evenings, the buzz of the crickets, even the tossing and turning and complaining that it’s too hot to sleep!
But, if I look out the window today, the sun is glorious. It may well be below zero, but after the darkest northern European winter in history, I’ll take what I can get.
Because it’s still so cold, I’m taking full advantage and making warm stuff. I have a new project in the pipeline, if you subscribe to my newsletter (you should, by the way. Loads of fun stuff in there each fortnight), you’ll have seen some of my swatching.
River Washed (regular and XL) has the same construction as the hugely popular Stone Washed. Except in the River Washed the core is dyed as opposed to white, and the fuzz is a contrasting or complementary colour. It’s a fantastic winter yarn. the cotton core is so soft, and the acrylic fuzz traps heat, making anything you make deliciously warm.
I’ve decided to use a combination of these four colours. From left to right we have 982 Steenbras, 981 Colorado, 989 Yarra, and 988 Danube. These are all combinations of my favourite colours, so now I have to make the stitch pattern I have in mind work.
I’m going to use the braided puff stitch, which is fun but a little tricky to get just right, so right now there’s a LOT of frogging going on. Luckily the River Washed is up to the task. It’s not the best yarn to frog, but luckily I’m not working a bunch of tight stitches, but lots of loops.
If you haven’t tried River Washed yet, now’s a great time. This pattern is only going to use three balls of yarn, and at 3.30 euros a ball (or 2.99GBP/3.46USD) it’s a very affordable yarn.
