Introducing The Carolyn – a celebration of Autumn.
GET THE YARN
You’ll need two skeins of River Washed and one skein of River Washed XL (or Stone Washed, choose your favourite).
Scheepjes has a complete list of stockists on their website. Most of their retailers stock Stone Washed and River Washed, but if not, don’t be afraid to ask them to get it in!
Here in the Netherlands, Caro’s Atelier* has River Washed and River Washed XL, plus they’re my LYS (and awesome).
In the US check out DotsYarnDen who also stocks River Washed, plus a bunch of other Scheepjes yarns.
In Australia Little Woollie also stocks Stone Washed and Stone Washed XL.
The Carolyn is a completely different design and construction to most usual hats.
We have a double brim for warmth, which is also shaped in a way so that the crown sits perfectly on your head and snuggles into the back of your neck and keeps your ears covered.
We make the brim first, and then work upwards, decreasing as we go. The puff stitches add a textural dimension and interest, without losing warmth.
The River Washed is warm enough to wear all through the winter, but still breathes so you can wear it on days when there is just a bit of a chill in the air.
Can you sense that I’m a bit obsessed with warmth? Seriously, before I moved to Northern Europe I didn’t even own a proper winter coat, let alone a scarf or hat! Now these three items make up half my wardrobe.
But why Carolyn?
Well. Carolyn is a good friend of mine. She’s a north American who LOVES Autumn and she was the inspiration for the shape of this hat. I like to choose the names of people who are dear to me to name my designs, and Carolyn was the obvious choice. We walk our dogs together and I love her excitement when October rolls around. She’s always extolling her love of this time of year while I’m too busy complaining about the cold 😀
The pattern has been tested, and I’m adding the finishing touches. I plan to launch it in the coming days, so do get your yarn order in. This will make a fantastic Christmas gift for that one person in your life who complains about the cold as much as I do!
I have a seriously cool design coming up, using all of these colours, I can’t wait to share it with you over the coming weeks.
Get The Yarn
Scheepjes has the complete list of stockists available on their website, at scheepjes.com. If your favourite retailer doesn’t have Organicon, you can always ask them to get it in – don’t be shy!
Wool Warehouse* is shipping globally again (with some small delays due to C-19), so you can pick it up there.
As you know, Caro’s Atelier* is my local yarn store, so I would also love you to support them. They ship all over Europe.
Black Sheep Wools* is one of the best bricks and mortar stores in the UK, and they’ll also ship to you.
(If you own a yarn store and stock Organicon, please feel free to add direct links to your product page in the comments of this post.)
About Organicon
Scheepjes Organicon is a 100% GOTS certified organic cotton, which is part of a strong push toward sustainability and the need to improve production methods and conscious consumption.
A benefit of this is that Organicon is a deliciously soft yarn which is soft on skin and has a beautiful drape for garments and projects for baby.
Not only is Organicon produced in a sustainable way and unbelievably soft, it’s also vegan friendly, containing no animal products from the production of the cotton through to the dyes used to colour the yarn.
Yarn Stats
The yarn comes as 50g balls, with 170 metres. It’s a 4ply (fingering) weight yarn, and a 3mm hook/needles are recommended. There are 21 colours to choose from, and what I love is that there are light and bright versions of the same colour, so they all work together and can be interchangeable.
Here’s a sneak peek at some of the colours I’m using. You’ll have to wait and follow my Instagram feed to keep up with the progress over the next few weeks.
Just a small hint: my project is huge, and is many, many more balls than the three I’ve just shown you. It’s going to be completely worth the effort, and I’m going to have a great pattern to share with you at the end of it.
Note: this version uses UK terms. If you’d prefer US terms, or a PDF printer friendly version you can find it on Ravelry for a small fee. As always, the Dutch version will appear in the near future.
40cm wide by 55cm high, laid flat (but worked in the round), blocked
Tension
17 sts and 10 rounds to measure 10 x 10 cm over pattern unblocked.
Abbreviations
(UK terms) Ch chain St(s) stitch(es) dc double crochet htr half treble crochet tr treble crochet dtr double treble crochet fptr front post treble crochet bptr back post treble crochet Ss slip stitch Patt pattern Rep repeat
Notes
This pattern is worked in rounds, joining at the end of each round. Tension is important due to using the entire cake with little leftover. Finish the body of the cowl on a row 7 and begin working the rib. Repeats are described as (dtr, ch1, tr). When smaller sets of repeats are needed inside your initial repeat, it will be described as (dc in dtr, ch1 [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1).
Instructions
Round 1 ch120, join being careful not to twist your chain. Round 2 ch2 (does not count as a st), tr in each ch around, ss to join. Round 3 ch3 (does not count as a st), (fptr, bptr) alternating in each st around, ss to join. Round 4-5 repeat round 3, working fptr in fptr and bptr in bptr from the previous round to create a rib. Round 6 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first st, ch1, miss 2, dc, (ch1, miss 2 [tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr] in the next, ch1, miss 2, dc) 19 times, ch1, miss 2, (tr, ch1) in the first, ss to join. Round 7 ch1, (does not count as a st), (dc in dtr, ch1 [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1) around, ss to join. Round 8 ch1, (does not count as a st), (dc, ch1, miss ch1, miss tr, [tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr] in ch-sp, ch1, dc in dc) rep to last dc, ch1, miss ch, miss tr, (tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr) in ch-sp, ch1, ss to join. Round 9 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first, ch1, (dc in tr, ch1, [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1) rep to last, ch1, dc in tr, ch1, ss to join. Round 10 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first, ch1, dc in dc, ch1, miss ch1, miss tr, (tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr) in ch-sp, ch1, dc in dc, ch1) to last, ss to join. Rounds 11-36 Rep rounds 7-10 10 more times. Round 37 Rep round 7. Round 38 ch2, (does not count as a st), tr in each st and ch-sp around to last, ss to join. Rounds 39-41 rep row 3 3 times. Optional round turn, ss in each sts loosely (go up a hook size if necessary) to create the same tension as the first ch round.
Are you ready to get started on Your Last Slippers?
I know I keep saying it, but these babies truly are the last slippers you’ll need. I’ve made loads of pairs with different patterns over the years, and they always stretch out of shape, or don’t stay on my feet, or are complicated to make. These are none of those things. They’ll always stay on thanks to the firm ankle opening, they’re designed to stretch so they’ll fit all feet, and they’re warm.
The free pattern below uses UK crochet terminology. There is also a printer friendly PDF version available on Ravelry for a small fee, which includes US terms and a chart.
Again, for the Dutchies, a translation is coming, but it always takes me a bit longer. Sit tight, I’ll get there. Thanks for your patience!
Shop the Yarn
Want to get your hands on Chunky Monkey for yourself?
1 (2) balls of Scheepjes Chunky Monkey in your colour choice (samples made in 1435 magenta, 2002 orange and 2018 dark grey)
5mm (H-8) hook
Tapestry needle
Blocking mats and pins
Measurements
Kids: 20cm heel to toe
Adults: 23cm heel to toe
Tension
14 sts and 12 rows to measure 10 x 10 cm over htr3lo st, but tension is not important for this project.
Abbreviations
(UK terms) Ch chain Sts stitches dc double crochet htr half treble crochet htr3lo half treble crochet in 3rd loop only dc2tog 2 double crochet stitches decreasing into one stitch Ss slip stitch
(RS) (WS) right side/wrong side Rep repeat
Notes
This pattern is two sizes fits all, one for kids, and one for adults. The kids sizes will fit between the ages of about 5 and 10, and then the adult sizes should fit. However, it’s easy to customise the fit, by adding or removing stitches and rows for bigger or smaller feet.
The pattern is worked back and forth in rows to make the body of the foot and sole, then the piece is turned 90 degrees to work the tops of the feet, then the piece is slip stitched together and finished.
The kid’s size will be described, with stitch/row counts in parentheses for the adults. Eg. ch21 (31) or rep row for a total of 20 (22) rows.
Instructions
(Make two) Row 1 ch 21 (31), dc into second ch from the hook, htr to last, dc in last ch, turn.[20 (30)sts] Row 2 ch1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), dc, htr3lo to the last, dc last, turn .[20 (30)sts].
ow 2 for a total of 20 (22) rows .[20 (30)sts]. Row 21 (23) (RS) Turn work 90 degrees, ss in each row across to have 20 (22) sts, turn Row 22 (24) (WS) ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), dc in all stitches across, turn [20 (22)sts] Row 23 (25) (RS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [18 (20)sts] Row 24 (26) (WS) ch1, dc2tog, dc to second last, dc2tog, turn [16 (18)sts] Rows 25 (27)-31 (32) rep row 24 7 (8) times until the stitch count is 2.
Tie off, cut yarn.
Turn work 180 degrees, and ensuring that you work on the RS, attach yarn to the opposite corner and repeat rows 21 (23) to rows 31 (32). Do not tie off.
Assembly
Take your work and fold it in half, triangle edges together, RS facing each other. Using the yarn that is not tied off, ss down one side of the triangle, and then all the way to the bottom. Tie off. This has formed the toe.
Now working at the heel, join the yarn at the bottom, ss the two sides together to the start of the triangle. Now turn the slipper the right way out, and leaving an opening for the foot, dc in each row around, working a dc2tog at the top of the triangle. SS to join. Cut yarn, weave in all ends.
There are a couple of points where you can adjust the foot opening in that round; you can skip the dc2tog to make a slightly looser fit, or you can work a second dc2tog at the heel before joining.
To make a larger size, add rows in multiples of two in the first stage. This will also make your triangles larger, but you can skip sts while slip stitching across the in the foundation triangle row to give the slipper more length but a firmer top.
23 sts and 14 rows (in pattern) to measure 10 x 10 cm (4in) using a 4mm (G) hook
Abbreviations
(UK terms)
Ch chain Miss miss instructed number of stitches Htr half treble crochet 2htrcl 2 half treble cluster (see notes) HtrInc Half treble increase (2 htr in the same stitch)
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, worked back and forth in rows, increasing at one side only. The shawl will become a large triangle.
Repeat instructions between brackets (…) where instructed.
Ch2 at the beginning of each row, this does not count as a stitch throughout.
The 2htrcl at the end of each second row is to straighten the edge, making a border redundant. To work the 2htrcl, yarn over hook, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
Stitch counts are deliberately left out of this pattern to condense the length. Each row will increase by one stitch. Remember, when working a fast lane (htr, ch1, miss 1) row, you should always have an odd stitch count. The return row will be even.
Instructions
Row 1 Ch3, 2htr in the third ch from the hook, turn. Row 2 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), htr in the same, ch1, 2htrcl in the last. Turn Row 3 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr in the ch space, htrInc in the last, turn. Row 4 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, htr next, ch1, miss 1, 2htrcl in the last, turn. Row 5 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, (htr in ch space, htr), repeat to and into second last, htrInc. Row 6 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 7 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 five more times.
Now work the slow lanes:
Row 18 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htrInc in the same, htr to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 19 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last, htrInc. Row 20 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl Row 21 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc
Repeat rows 18-21 twice more.
Now work in the following sets:
(Repeat rows 6 and 7 seven times, then repeat rows 18-21 three times), which will create one full set of fast and slow lanes.
Continue in these sets until there is just enough yarn so that you will finish with a slow lane. Do not finish on a row 6/7 repeat alone. If the tension has been matched, there will only be a small amount of yarn left over. Weave in ends and block to size.
I’ve updated the the rainBOOM! Wrap pattern, just in time to kick off the #rainBOOMMAL in collaboration with Scheepjes. Is this the first you’ve heard of it? All the info can be found in this post.
Before we start, if you’re looking for the version which uses UK terms go here, and the Dutch translation can be found here.
In this version you can find the pattern using UK terminology. I also have a tips and tricks post (which will be online Wednesday 30th Jan) which talks about all the little things that you may find to be a bit challenging, including a couple of short videos which should help if you get stuck at all.
Ready to go?
Materials
One Stone Washed River Washed Colour Pack (all fifty colours) 5mm crochet hook Tapestry needle Blocking mats/pins
Measurements
Original version: 200cm point to point (78 ¾ in) x 50cm (19 ½ in) wide Extended version: 220cm point to point (86 1/2 in) x 50cm (19 ½ in) wide
Tension
16 stitches by 8.5 rows in 10cm by 10cm (4in) using a 5mm (H) hook in pattern.
Abbreviations
(US Terms) DC double crochet Ch chain stitch Inc increase – two double crochet stitches in one stitch DC2tog decrease – double crochet made over 2 stitches from previous row. (…) repeat instructions between brackets as directed. [801] denotes colour number from the yarn label.
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, designed touse all 50 colours of the Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed colourpack.
The wrap will be constructed in two pieces,working back and forth in rows. First making two triangles, then diagonal rows,and finally joining the two pieces and adding tassels from the leftovers. There will be minimal yarn left over, so do payattention to your tension. Use either colour 801 or 803 and make a swatch.
At the start of each row you should ch2, thiswill not count as a stitch throughout. At the end of each row you should turnyour work. The instruction is only mentioned in rows 1 and 2, as a reminder.
While making the triangle, the rows willincrease by 3 stitches each side (6 per row), with an increase at the flatedge, and in the ch space. Weave in your ends as you go, this will vastlyreduce the amount of work at the end of the project.
Where the colour number is noted at the beginning of a row [801], you should tie off at the previous row and start using the next colour.
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, inc in the last, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[821] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[820] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[836] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[835] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[943] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[945] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[942] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[807] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[946] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[823] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[944] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[816] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[947] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[834] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[817] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[833] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[809] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[832] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[812] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
Tie off, start new triangle. Repeat rows 1-35 inthe following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magicring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, incin the last st, turn.
Inc,4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[802]Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc,10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc,13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[829]Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc,19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc,22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[822]Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc,28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc,31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[804]Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC, inc
Inc,37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc,40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[831]Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc,46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[814]Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc,52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[811]Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc,58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[810]Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc,64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[808]Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc,70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[818]Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[830]Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[949]Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[941]Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[950]Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[805]Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[828]Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[813]Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[824]Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[952]Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
[948]Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, DC2tog in lastst and ch space, turn
Ch2, DC2tog, DC to last stitch, inc in the last st, turn
Inc,DC up to the 2nd last stitch, DC2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a setof three rows) 8 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
[815] [825] [953] [951] [954] [826] [806] [819]
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [827], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Don’t pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Extended Colour Pack Instructions
Since the original release of this Pattern,Scheepjes has added eight new river washed colours to their colour packs. To take full advantage of that, here are theinstructions to make the extended RainBOOM!
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2,2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the chspace, DC, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[821] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[820] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[836] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[835] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[943] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[945] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[942] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[807] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[946] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[823] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[956] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[944] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[961] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[816] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[947] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[960] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[834] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[817] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[833] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
Tie off, start new triangle. Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2DC, ch2, 2DC in a magic ring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st, DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, DC, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 4DC, inc
[802] Inc, 7DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 7DC, inc
Inc, 10DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 10DC, inc
Inc, 13DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 13DC, inc
[829] Inc, 16DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 16DC, inc
Inc, 19DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 19DC, inc
Inc, 22DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 22DC, inc
[822] Inc, 25DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 25DC, inc
Inc, 28DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 28DC, inc
Inc, 31DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 31DC, inc
[804] Inc, 34DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 34DC
Inc, 37DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 37DC, inc
Inc, 40DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 40DC, inc
[831] Inc, 43DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 43DC, inc
Inc, 46DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 46DC, inc
[814] Inc, 49DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 49DC, inc
Inc, 52DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 52DC, inc
[811] Inc, 55DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 55DC, inc
Inc, 58DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 58DC, inc
[810] Inc, 61DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 61DC, inc
Inc, 64DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 64DC, inc
[957] Inc, 67DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 67DC, inc
Inc, 70DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 70DC, inc
[808] Inc, 73DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 73DC, inc
[818] Inc, 76DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 76DC, inc
[830] Inc, 79DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 79DC, inc
[949] Inc, 82DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 82DC, inc
[941] Inc, 85DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 85DC, inc
[950] Inc, 88DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 88DC, inc
[805] Inc, 91DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 91DC, inc
[828] Inc, 94DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 94DC, inc
[813] Inc, 97DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 97DC, inc
[824] Inc, 100DC, (2DC, ch2, 2DC) in the ch space, 100DC, inc
[952] Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, DC2tog in last st and ch space, turn.
Ch 2 DC2tog, DC up to the last stitch, inc, turn.
Ch 2, Inc, DC up to the 2nd last stitch, DC2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off.
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as aset of three rows) 16 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the followingorder:
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [809],then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the longedge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Do not pull thestitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Tassels
Separating the leftover colours from piece one and piece two, cut 30-40cm lengths, and double stranded, knot tassels in each stitch along both short (diagonal) sides. Adjust spacing according to the amount of remaining yarn. Block to size, enjoy!
Chart
Do note: the chart is just an example of how you should begin, and how the diagonal rows are worked. Please do not follow this exactly from the start, but instead use it as a guide
Or you could check out my designer store on Deramores.com* – where you can get your hands on the kit AND a pdf of the pattern at the same time. They also ship worldwide, so that’s a win-win!
Now, I do hope you’re joining the #rainBOOMMAL that’s running through all of February 2019. In collaboration with the amazing people at Scheepjes, we’ll be crocheting together, from all corners of the world, bringing some more colour into our lives.
I’ve updated the the rainBOOM! Wrap pattern, just in time to kick off the #rainBOOMMAL in collaboration with Scheepjes. Is this the first you’ve heard of it? All the info can be found in this post.
Before we start, if you’re looking for the version which uses US terms go here, and the Dutch translation can be found here.
In this version you can find the pattern using UK terminology. I also have a tips and tricks post (this will be live on Wednesday 30th January) which talks about all the little things that you may find to be a bit challenging, including a couple of short videos which should help if you get stuck at all.
Ready to go?
Materials
One Stone Washed River Washed Colour Pack (all fifty colours) 5mm crochet hook Tapestry needle Blocking mats/pins
Measurements
Original version: 200cm (point to point) x 50cm wide Extended version: 220cm (point to point) x 50cm wide
Tension
16 stitches by 8.5 rows in 10cm by 10cmusing a 5mm hook
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Tr treble crochet Ch chain stitch Inc increase – two treble crochet stitches in one stitch Tr2tog decrease – Treble crochet made over 2 stitches from previous row. (…) repeat instructions between brackets as directed. [801] denotes colour number from the yarn label.
Notes
This is a beginner friendly pattern, designed touse all 50 colours of the Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed colourpack.
The wrap will be constructed in two pieces,working back and forth in rows. First making two triangles, then diagonal rows,and finally joining the two pieces and adding tassels from the leftovers. There will be minimal yarn left over, so do payattention to your tension. Use either colour 801 or 803 and make a swatch.
At the start of each row you should ch2, thiswill not count as a stitch throughout. At the end of each row you should turnyour work. The instruction is only mentioned in rows 1 and 2, as a reminder.
While making the triangle, the rows willincrease by 3 stitches each side (6 per row), with an increase at the flatedge, and in the ch space. Weave in your ends as you go, this will vastlyreduce the amount of work at the end of the project.
Where the colour number is noted at the beginning of a row [801], you should tie off at the previous row and start using the next colour.
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2,2tr in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr,inc in the last, turn.
Inc, 4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[821] Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc, 10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc, 13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[820] Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc, 19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc, 22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[836] Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc, 28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc, 31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[835] Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc, 37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc, 40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[943] Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc, 46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[945] Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc, 52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[942] Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc, 58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[807] Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc, 64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[946] Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc, 70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[823] Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[944] Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[816] Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[947] Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[834] Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[817] Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[833] Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[809] Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[832] Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[812] Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
Tie off, start new triangle Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magicring, turn.
Ch2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, incin the last st, turn.
Inc,4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[802]Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc,10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc,13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[829]Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc,19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc,22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[822]Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc,28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc,31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[804]Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr, inc
Inc,37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc,40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[831]Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc,46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[814]Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc,52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[811]Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc,58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[810]Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc,64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[808]Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc,70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[818]Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[830]Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[949]Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[941]Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[950]Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[805]Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[828]Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[813]Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[824]Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[952]Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
[948]Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, tr2tog in lastst and ch space, turn
Ch2, Tr2tog, tr to last stitch, inc in the last st, turn
Inc,tr up to the 2nd last stitch, tr2tog in last 2 stitches, tie off
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a set of three rows) 8 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
[815] [825] [953] [951] [954] [826] [806] [819]
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [827], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Don’t pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Extended Colour Pack Instructions
Since the original release of this Pattern,Scheepjes has added eight new river washed colours to their colour packs. To take full advantage of that, here are theinstructions to make the extended RainBOOM!
[801] ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magic ring, turn.
Ch 2, inc in the 1st st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, inc in the last st, turn.
Inc, 4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[821] Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc, 10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc, 13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[820] Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc, 19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc, 22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[836] Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc, 28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc, 31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[835] Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc, 37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc, 40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[943] Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc, 46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[945] Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc, 52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[942] Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc, 58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[807] Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc, 64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[946] Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc, 70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[823] Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[956] Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[944] Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[961] Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[816] Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[947] Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[960] Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[834] Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[817] Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[833] Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
Tie off, start new triangle Repeat rows 1-35 in the following order:
[803]ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), 2tr, ch2, 2tr in a magicring, turn.
Ch2,inc in the 1st, tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, tr, inc in the last st,turn.
Inc,4tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 4tr, inc
[802]Inc, 7tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 7tr, inc
Inc,10tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 10tr, inc
Inc,13tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 13tr, inc
[829]Inc, 16tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 16tr, inc
Inc,19tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 19tr, inc
Inc,22tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 22tr, inc
[822]Inc, 25tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 25tr, inc
Inc,28tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 28tr, inc
Inc,31tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 31tr, inc
[804]Inc, 34tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 34tr
Inc,37tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 37tr, inc
Inc,40tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 40tr, inc
[831]Inc, 43tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 43tr, inc
Inc,46tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 46tr, inc
[814]Inc, 49tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 49tr, inc
Inc,52tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 52tr, inc
[811]Inc, 55tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 55tr, inc
Inc,58tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 58tr, inc
[810]Inc, 61tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 61tr, inc
Inc,64tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 64tr, inc
[957]Inc, 67tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 67tr, inc
Inc,70tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 70tr, inc
[808]Inc, 73tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 73tr, inc
[818]Inc, 76tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 76tr, inc
[830]Inc, 79tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 79tr, inc
[949]Inc, 82tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 82tr, inc
[941]Inc, 85tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 85tr, inc
[950]Inc, 88tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 88tr, inc
[805]Inc, 91tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 91tr, inc
[828]Inc, 94tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 94tr, inc
[813]Inc, 97tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in the ch space, 97tr, inc
[824]Inc, 100tr, (2tr, ch2,2tr) in the ch space, 100tr, inc
[952]Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch before the corner, tr2tog in lastst and ch space, turn.
Ch2 Tr2tog, tr up to the last stitch, inc, turn.
Ch2, Inc, tr up to the 2nd last stitch, tr2tog in last 2 stitches, tieoff.
Repeat rows Repeat rows 38, 37 and 38 (as a setof three rows) 16 times, changing colour every 3 rows in the following order:
Make sure you always start your new colour on the long side, not where you tied off on the short side. This will ensure that you always have a straight edge on both sides.
Repeat rows 38 and then 37 with colour [809], then saving a long tail, whip stitch the two pieces together, with the long edge of piece two matching up with the point of piece one. Do not pull the stitches too tight, otherwise a ridge will appear.
Tassels
Separating the leftover colours from piece one and piece two, cut 30-40cm lengths, and double stranded, knot tassels in each stitch along both short (diagonal) sides. Adjust spacing according to the amount of remaining yarn. Block to size, enjoy!
Chart
Do note: the chart is just an example of how you should begin, and how the diagonal rows are worked. Please do not follow this exactly from the start, but instead use it as a guide.
Or you could check out my designer store on Deramores.com* – where you can get your hands on the kit AND a pdf of the pattern at the same time. They also ship worldwide, so that’s a win-win!
Now, I do hope you’re joining the #rainBOOMMAL that’s running through all of February 2019. In collaboration with the amazing people at Scheepjes, we’ll be crocheting together, from all corners of the world, bringing some more colour into our lives.
Just in time for Christmas, I’m sharing my latest free pattern with you!
While I was making this, I kept wondering what I should call it. I was hoping for a yoga related name, as I’m using Scheepjes Namaste, but as soon as I tried it on it felt like a warm hug. And then because I have a young kid, all I could hear in my head (over and over again, omg) was “I’m Olaf, and I like warm hugs,” so I couldn’t call this anything but Olaf (the warm shrug)!
What you’ll need for this pattern is 7 balls of Scheepjes Namaste in your favourite colour and a 10mm hook. I used Warrior (614). I also deliberately made this a one size fits all design and the size that fits me (XL) fits my husband and several friends I asked to try it on for me. If you’re a very small person, it may well be too large for you, but there are some tips on how to resize it if you would like to make it smaller.
The pattern below is written in UK crochet terms, but if you prefer US terms I have a separate PDF for both versions for a small fee to download from my Ravelry store. That version is print friendly, and there is also a printer/e-reader friendly version for the UK terms as well for a small fee.
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Ch chain stitch Htr half treble crochet Tr treble crochet Trtcl treble crochet tiny cluster Tr2tog treble crochet two together (decrease) InV inverted v-stitch (see notes) […] (…) repeat instructions between brackets the required number of times. Rep repeat SS slip stitch
Notes
Olaf (the warm shrug) is designed to be one size fits most, but by adjusting the sleeve length, you’ll be able to make it smaller, or larger. There will be information on how to do that at the end of the instructions.
The shrug is created back and forth in rows, then the corners are folded in and stitched together to make the lapels and yoke, then we attach a collar and sleeves.
The InV stitch is an inverted V-stitch: YO, insert hook, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, miss 1, YO, insert hook, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through all loops.
Instructions
Body
Ch 89 (84 +5), mark the 43rd stitch for later, and leave a 40cm tail for sewing the sides (you can roll this up and poke it in through some stitches to hold it out of the way).
Trtcl in the 3rd ch from the hook, tr to last, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr [ch2, miss 2, tr next] to last, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr, ch 1 [miss 2 (tr, ch 1, tr in next tr)] to last 4, ch 1, miss 2, tr, trtcl. Ch 2, turn.
Trtcl, tr, ch 2 [InV, ch 2] to last 2, tr, trtcl last. Ch 2, turn. Repeat rows 3-5 9 times
Trtcl, tr, [2 tr in the ch sp, tr next] to last, trtcl. Tie off, leave 40cm tail.
Fold top and bottom corners into meet in the middle, and using the long tails, whip stitch the from the outside corners toward the fold for 10 cm. Repeat for the other side. Take care that you will be able to work 18 trebles into the opening (the gaps between rows) when making the sleeves.
Sleeves
Make 2
Join at the seam with a standing tr, ch1 (or ss to join and ch 4), [tr in the next space between rows, ch1] repeat around, ss to join. You should have 18 trebles. If not, adjust your stitch placement accordingly.
Ss into the ch space, ch 2, tr next ch sp, ch 1 [tr2tog in same sp and next sp, missing the treble in between, ch 1] repeat to last tr2tog in the last sp and 1st sp, ch 1, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, tr same sp, [ch 1, tr next sp], repeat to last, ss to join. Note, there is no ch between the last and 1st trebles, this is a decrease.
Ss to ch sp, ch 2, tr next ch sp, ch 1, [tr2tog in the same sp and next sp, missing the treble in between], repeat to last ch sp, ch 1, tr2tog in the last sp and 1st sp, skipping 2 trebles. Ch 1, ss to join.
Repeat round 3
Repeat round 4
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, tr, ch 1, [tr next ch sp, ch 1] repeat to end, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 2, tr next sp, ch 1 [tr2tog in the same and next sp, missing treble in between, ch 1], rep to last, tr2tog last sp and 1st sp, ch 1, ss to 1st tr.
Repeat round 7
Repeat round 8
Ss to sp, ch 1, 2 htr in the same sp, [2 htr in the next sp] repeat to last, ss to join.
Repeat round 11. Tie off.
Note: to make the shrug smaller, you can make the join seam longer. This will make the lapels and collar wider, and you will need to work fewer rounds on the sleeves (skip rows 9 and 10).
Your stitch count in round 1 will also be less, but the instructions for rest of the rounds will work if you have fewer trebles as well.
If you like, you can omit the sleeves altogether, and instead work rows 1, 11 and 12 to make a cuff.
Collar
Starting at the marker from the very first row, count and mark the 18th stitch in each direction. This is the bottom of the shrug. Note: Make sure you check to hold the work the right way out, so the sleeves won’t be inside out.
Join at middle marker with a standing tr (or ch 3), ch 1, tr in the same st, [miss 2, (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to marker, remove marker, [miss 1, (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to marker, remove marker, [miss 2 (tr, ch 1, tr same)] to last, ss to join.
Ss to ch sp, ch 1, [tr, ch 1, tr same] in the same space, [tr, ch 1, tr same] in the next ch space, and to the last, ss to join.
Repeat round 2, mark the join, tie off.
Count 16 V-stitches (tr, ch1, tr) and join with an ss to the next ch sp. Ch 2, [dc, ch 1, dc] next ch sp, [htr, ch 1, htr] next ch sp, [tr, ch 1, tr] next 46 spaces, [htr, ch 1, htr] next ch sp, [dc, ch 1, dc] next ch sp, ch 2, ss in the next ch sp, tie off.
Weave in ends, block gently if desired.
Feel free to add an oversized button where the sleeves are seamed if you want to close it like a jacket.
Chart
What do you think? Do you like warm hugs? I’d love you to make this, and you can purchase the yarn from a bunch of great retailers. Scheepjes lists all the shops on their website, and if you’re in the Netherlands I recommend my local yarn store, Caro’s Atelier*.
So I told you that I have a quick hat in Namaste in the works, and last week I showed you a photo. Today I have the pattern for you, and it’s so easy you can work it up in an hour or so, tops!
We have two sizes, the smaller is perfect for my almost 7 year old, and because it’s a stretchy yarn, it will fit smaller or bigger kids, and the other is to fit adults. It’s a firm, warm fit on me, so slouchy for kids. Again, the yarn has loads of give, so there are no problems with fit.
This pattern is written using UK crochet terms, but if you prefer US terminology, or would like to have a printer/e-reader friendly version of this pattern, it’s also available in my Ravelry store for a small fee.
Two sizes: to fit child 5-10, and to fit older child and adult
Tension
Not important, but the adult size will use the entire skein. If you’re making both and want to make the adult longer, there will be plenty left over from the kid’s size.
Abbreviations
(UK Terms) Ch chain stitch Dc double crochet Tr treble crochet […] repeat instructions between brackets the required number of times. SS slip stitch Fptr front post treble crochet Bptr back post treble crochet
Notes
This is a granny stitch style hat, worked in rounds, slip stitching to join each round. The pattern outlines two sizes, the smaller will fit most children from about 5 years old and the larger size will fit teens through to adults. Each size uses one skein of yarn, with plenty left over after the children’s size.
Instructions
Adult and child Ch 4, ss to join.
CH 3, (counts as 1st stitch and ch 1), tr in the ring, ch 1 [2tr, ch1], x 4. skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to the ch space, dc in the ch space, ch1 (counts as the 1st tr of the round), tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, [2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr] in the next ch space], x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, dc in ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, 2 tr in the next space, ch 1 [3 tr in the next, ch 1, 2 tr in the next, ch 1] x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr, ch 1, [3 tr in the next space, ch 1] x 9, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join. Skip to round 14 to finish child size.
Adult ss to ch space, dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), [2 tr, ch 1, 3 tr in the same space] ch1, [3 tr in the next space, ch 1] x 4, [3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr] in the next, ch 1, [3 tr next, ch 1] x 4, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join
Ss to the ch space dc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same, ch 1, [3 tr, ch 1] x 2, [3 tr, ch 1, 2 tr] in the next, [3 tr, ch 1] x 5, [3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr] next, ch 1, [ch 3, ch 1] x 2, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Ss to ch space, sc in the ch space, ch 1 (counts as 1st tr of the round), 2 tr in the same space, ch 1, [3 tr, ch1 in the next] x 13, skip 1st dc and ch1 and ss to the next tr to join.
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Repeat round 8
Ch 3, tr, skip the ch space, [dc x 3, sk space] x 13, sk space, dc, ss to top of ch 3
Ch 3, bptr next, [fptr, bptr] repeat to last, ss to join.
Repeat round 15, ss to join, tie off and weave in ends.
There you have it!
There are several places I can recommend you purchase the yarn, here are some of them:
Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* ship internationally, Caro’s Atelier* has everything you need in the Benelux and Europe, Knotty House* stocks Namaste in North America (US and Canada), plus there are hundreds of great retailers all over the place who stock Scheepjes yarns. If they don’t have Namaste in stock, give them a friendly nudge 😉
At around 2 metres end to end, and nice and deep, she wraps around beautifully.
And tucks in to keep your neck warm and lifts your outfit – a flat out fabulous winter accessory!
Using the larger than recommended needle size has increased the squish factor a thousand fold. I hadn’t realised that the Scheepjes Stone Washed/River Washed could be so smooshy!
She’s become my number one shawl since the weather turned. I can’t get enough of these two colours (Steenbras and Yarra) together, and she’s so warm! The fuzz traps heat like nobody’s business.
She’s also my new favourite dog walking shawl, we have a blast!
So I’ve been busy writing the pattern, and you won’t believe it, but I was halfway through transcribing my instructions, when they just stopped. The entire second half has just gone poof! into thin air. No idea where I put the notes, but luckily I have all the key points. So the pattern will still be ready next week, I can’t wait to share it with you.
In preparation for the free pattern, you’ll need 3 balls of steenbras and 4 balls of Yarra.
