After the release of my free baby pattern for Reti Koala, I’m on a baby kick! No, there’s still nothing to announce in that department, but now that my kid is a tween, I had forgotten just how much I love making baby projects, so this probably won’t be the last one I make…
24sts and 15 rows to measure 10cm over htr3lo using a 3.5mm hook.
Will fit an adult head
(UK terms) Ch chain Ss slip stitch Hss half slip stitch (yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, pull directly through all loops) St(s) stitch(es) Ch chain Fhtr foundation half treble crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, pull through one loop, yarn over, pull through all loops) Htr half treble crochet Htrblo half treble crochet in the back loop only Htr3lo half treble crochet in the third loop only Htr3loInc half treble crochet in the third loop only increase (two htr3lo in one stitch) Htr3lo2tog half treble crochet in the third loop only decrease (two htr3lo decreased into one stitch) Htr2tog half treble crochet decrease (two htr decreased into one stitch) Puff-st puff stitch (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop) 3 times, yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on hook, ch1 Miss miss indicated number of stitches Rep repeat
This project is made in two stages. First we make the brim of the hat back and forth in rows, using the River Washed and then we join the River Washed XL and work in decreasing rounds. When working in rows the third loop is found at the front. When working in the round the third loop is found at the back. Starting chain does not count as stitch. If you haven’t matched tension and find yourself running out of XL yarn in the crown, you can use the leftovers from the brim double stranded. The discrepancy will not be noticeable.
Head to my Instagram to see a bunch of handy short tutorial videos for each section.
With colour 1 and a 3.5 mm hook Row 1 30fhtr, turn (30sts) Row 2 ch2, htrblo to end, turn (30sts) Row 3 ch2, htr3lo to end, turn (30sts) Row 4 ch2, htr3loInc, htr3lo to last st, htr3loInc in last st, turn (32sts) Row 5-6 rep row 3 (32sts) Row 7 rep row 4 (34sts) Row 8-9 rep row 3 (34sts) Row 10 rep row 4 (36sts) Row 11-12 rep row 3 (36sts) Row 13 rep row 4 (38sts) Row 14-15 rep row 3 (38sts) Row 16 rep row 4 (40sts) Row 17-18 rep row 3 (40sts) Row 19 rep row 4 (42sts) Row 20-21 rep row 3 (42sts) Row 22 rep row 4 (44sts) Row 23-24 rep row 3 (44sts) Row 25 rep row 4 (46sts) Row 26-27 rep row 3 (46sts) Row 28 rep row 4 (48sts) Row 29-30 rep row 3 (48sts) Row 31 rep row 4 (50sts) Row 32-33 rep row 3 (50sts) Row 34 rep row 4 (52sts) Row 35-36 rep row 3 (52sts) Row 37 rep row 4 (54sts) Row 38-43 rep row 3 (54sts) Row 44 htr3lo2tog, htr3lo to second last st, htr3lo2tog over last two sts, turn (52sts) Row 45-46 rep row 3 (52sts) Row 47 rep row 44 (50sts) Row 48-49 rep row 3 (50sts) Row 50 rep row 44 (48sts) Row 51-52 rep row 3 (48sts) Row 53 rep row 44 (46sts) Row 54-55 rep row 3 (46sts) Row 56 rep row 44 (44sts) Row 57-58 rep row 3 (44sts) Row 59 rep row 44 (42sts) Row 60-61 rep row 3 (42sts) Row 62 rep row 44 (40sts) Row 63-64 rep row 3 (40sts) Row 65 rep row 44 (38sts) Row 66-67 rep row 3 (38sts) Row 68 rep row 44 (36sts) Row 69-70 rep row 3 (36sts) Row 71 rep row 44 (34sts) Row 72-73 rep row 3 (34sts) Row 74 rep row 44 (32sts) Row 75-76 rep row 3 (32sts) Row 77 rep row 44 (30sts) Row 78-79 rep row 3 (30sts) Row 80 Turn. Now we will join the working end to the foundation end. Fold in half, holding the foundation row behind with what will now become the right sides facing one another. Ch2, htr3lo in row 80 and also through both loops of the corresponding ftr st. Rep to end.
We will start working in rounds going forward. Round 1 Open up the brim you’ve just joined and now fold the brim in half with the wrong sides facing, lengthways. You will have a double-thickness brim with a slanted edge. We will work all the way around, through both edges to close the brim and create the foundation for the body of the hat. Ch1, work 80hss through both edges. (it works out to be a st in each peak and trough, plus 1 extra st). Cut yarn. Change to colour 2 and 5 mm hook Round 2 join colour 2 to where you completed round 1, ch1, htr in each hss around, ss to the third loop of the first st to join (80sts) Round 3 ch1 htr3lo in each st around, ss to 3lo to join (80sts) Round 4 ch2, (puff-st in 3lo, miss 1) around, ss to last puff-st to join (80sts) Round 5 ch2, (htr2tog, 6htr) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (70sts) For round 5 (and subsequent rounds that follow on from a puff st round) the htr stitches are made into the puff sts and the ch sts. Round 6 ch1, 70htr3lo, ss to 3lo to join (70sts) Round 7 rep row 4 (70sts) Round 8 ch1, (htr2tog, 5htr) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (60sts) Round 9 ch1, (htr3lo2tog, 4htr) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (50sts) Round 10 rep round 4 (50sts) Round 11 ch1, (htr2tog, 3htr) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (40sts) Round 12 ch1, (htr3lo2tog, 2htr3lo) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (30sts) Round 13 ch1, (htr3lo2tog, htr3lo) 10 times, ss to 3lo to join (20sts) Round 14 ch1, 10htr3lo2tog (10sts) Round 15 ch1, 5htr3lo2tog (5sts)
Here you’ll find the free pattern for my Centerpoint blanket, made with Scheepjes Organicon in mind. You can substitute for Scheepjes Cotton 8 or Catona Denim which have similar weights and yardage, or any Scheepjes yarns in fact. You’ll just need to consider the quantities needed when substituting.
I just so happen to have a bonus pattern with this motif coming your way using Scheepjes Chunky Monkey, so that will be a great option for you too – a way to make a comparable blanket a lot faster as the motifs are four times the size!
Get The Yarn
Scheepjes has the complete list of stockists available on their website, at scheepjes.com. If your favourite retailer doesn’t have Organicon, you can always ask them to get it in – don’t be shy!
Wool Warehouse* ships globally (with some small delays due to C-19), so you can pick it up there.
I say it all the time: Caro’s Atelier* is my local yarn store, so I would also love you to support them. They ship all over Europe.
Black Sheep Wools* is one of the best bricks and mortar stores in the UK, and they’ll also ship to you.
Note: these instructions are using UK crochet terminology. You can access a printable version with either UK or US terms via Ravelry for a small fee – it helps keep the lights on at Chateau MissNeriss.
What You’ll Need
Scheepjes Organicon in the following quantities: Main colour (MC): 10 balls 202 Soft Cloud Contrast Colour (CC) 1: 2 balls 206 Blossom CC 2: 3 balls 208 Peach Fuzz CC 3: 4 balls 210 Buttermilk CC 4: 5 balls 212 Green Apple CC 5: 5 balls 215 Bright Ocean CC 6: 4 balls 217 Fresh Air CC 7: 3 balls 205 Lavender 3mm crochet hook
Approximately 120 x 160 cm blocked
(unblocked) Each motif will measure 10 x 10 cm. Organicon blocks really well, so even if your tension is tighter, you will be able to block it to size.
(UK terms) Ch chain St(s) stitches MC main colour CC contrast colour Ch2-sp chain 2 space: number denotes number of chains in chain space Tr treble crochet Dc double crochet Dcblo double crochet in the back loop only Ss slip stitch Rep repeat
This pattern is worked back and forth in diagonal rows, in the C2C style. You are instructed to ch2 at the beginning of each C2C stitch repeat, this keeps the blocks more compact. However, if you prefer to ch3, you can do that too. Make your motifs in the following quantities: CC1: 12 CC2: 20 CC3: 28 CC4: 36 CC5: 44 CC6: 28 CC7: 24
Tip: Weave in your ends as you go! Each motif will have 6 ends, and it will save you a lot of time at the end if they are all woven in as you go.
Row 1 with CC, ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, turn. Row 2 ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp, turn. Row 3 ch5, tr in third ch, 2tr, miss 3tr, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) twice, turn. Row 4 ch5, tr in third ch, 2tr, miss 3tr, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 3 times, turn. Row 5 ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, miss 3tr (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 4 times, turn. Row 6 ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, miss 3tr (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 5 times, turn. Row 7 ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, miss 3tr (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 6 times, cut yarn (weave in ends). Row 8 Turn. With MC, ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, miss 3tr (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 7 times, turn. Row 9 ch5, tr in third ch from the hook, 2tr, miss 3tr (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 8 times, turn. Row 10 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 8 times, ss to last ch2-sp. Cut yarn (weave in ends). Row 11 Turn. With CC join to ch2-sp of last block worked in prev row, (ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp, ss to next ch2-sp) 7 times, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 12 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 6 times, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 13 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 5 times, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 14 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 4 times, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 15 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) 3 times, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 16 3ss, (ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp) twice, ss to last ch2-sp, turn. Row 17 3ss, ss to ch2-sp, ch2, 3tr in ch2-sp, ss to last ch2-sp, cut yarn (weave in ends).
Once you have made all of your motifs, we can assemble the blanket. Lay the motifs out in the configuration as per the graphic below, ensuring that your MC strips point toward the centre. Start with CC1 in the centre, and work outwards, with CC6 and CC7 at the ends only to create the rectangle.
Join the rows of the motifs by taking row 1 (CC7) and folding it over to lay face down on row 2 (CC6) and zip across the motif using a slip stitch through the outside loops of each motif. This creates an invisible join on the front, and an interesting join on the back. You can also hold the squares flat, wrong side facing your and work through the front loops of both squares. Work 3 sts in each treble repeat (block) and 3 sts along the posts of the trebles, making sure it’s not too tight or too loose. There should still be some movement if you try to stretch the joined motifs because the C2C motif drapes beautifully. Repeat for all rows.
I found it easiest to join rows 1 and 2, then 3 and 4, 5 and 6, 7 and 8, 9 and 10, 11 and 12, 13 and 14 then finally 15 and 16 to each other. Then I joined each set of 2 rows to one another, then the sets of 4 rows, and finally you’ll zip the two halves together. Once all the rows are joined, you can rotate the blanket and zip down each un-joined column. See image below:
Work in rounds once the motifs are assembled. Round 1 With MC, ss to any corner which has a Ch2 start. Ch1, (dc, ch2, dc) in the ch2 at the corner, [(ch2, miss tr set of 3 trebles, dc in sp between sets), rep to corner, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-sp at corner (or in last tr if no ch2-sp)]. Rep to end, ss to join Round 2 ch2, [(tr, ch2, tr) in corner ch2-sp, 3tr in each ch2-sp to corner], rep around to end, ss to join. Round 3 ch1, 3dc, [(dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2-sp, dc to corner], rep to end, ss to join. Round 4 ch2, 4dcblo, [(dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2-sp, dcblo to corner] repeat to end, ss to join, cut yarn. Block to size. You can also block the squares before assembly.
Don’t forget to share your progress on Ravelry and the socials. Follow me on Instagram and use tags #missneriss and #centerpointblanket when you share!
Scheepjes has just launched its latest issue of their hugely popular – and beautiful – biannual bookazine YARN. This issue is called NOW Age and takes inspiration from Eckhart Tolle’s books The Power of Now and A New Earth.
Get your copy
Scheepjes has just introduced an exciting subscription plan so you can get your copy in the post first, twice a year.
My own contribution is in Spiritual. You can create your own chakra flags and as you work on each, take the time to bring yourself back to the centre and re-balance.
We round it out with Respectful, and take a moment to reflect on our actions and impact on this changing environment with the Earth Day sweater by Lili van Wattum.
I say it every issue, but this is my favourite. Simy’s challenge is a celebration of life, and my daughter and I will make our festival crowns together. Check out #simyschallenge on socials to see the beautiful creations and add your own.
Which project will you try first? Tag me @miss__neriss on instagram and add your projects to Ravelry.
I feel like I want to say: namaste, but that sounds a bit silly coming from me, the one who’s usually running around with her hair on fire! But, we all have to start somewhere right? So… Namaste 😉
Dies ist ein Anfänger-Hakelmuster, es wird in Hin- und Rückreihen gearbeitet. Es werden nur auf einer Seite Maschen zugenommen. Das fertige Tuch hat die Form eines großen Dreiecks.
Die Angaben in Klammern (…) werden so oft wiederholt wie angegeben.
Am Anfang jeder Reihe 2 Luftmaschen (Lm) häkeln, diese werden nicht als Masche gezählt.
Die 2 Büschelmaschen aus halben Stäbchen am Ende jeder zweiten Reihe dienen dazu, den Rand zu begradigen, so dass keine Umrandung gehäkelt werden muss. Um 2 Büschelmaschen aus halben Stäbchen (2BMhlbSt) zu häkeln gehe wie folgt vor: Umschlag, Nadel in die Masche einstechen, Faden holen (= 3 Umschläge auf der Nadel), Umschlag, Faden durch die ersten beiden Umschläge auf der Nadel ziehen, Nadel in die Masche einstechen, Umschlag, Faden holen (=3 Umschläge auf der Nadel), Umschlag, Faden durch alle Maschen auf der Nadel ziehen.
In der Anleitung ist keine Maschenanzahl pro Reihe angegeben, damit die Anleitung nicht zu lang und unübersichtlich wird. In jeder Reihe erhöht sich die Anzahl der Maschen um 1. Die schnellen Reihen (Halbes Stäbchen, 1 Luftmasche, 1 Masche auslassen) haben immer eine ungerade Maschenzahl. Die langsamen Reihen haben eine gerade Maschenzahl.
Reih 1 3 Lm, 2 hlbSt in die dritte Masche von der Nadel, wenden.
Reih 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, 1 Lm, 2BmhlbSt in die letzte Masche. Wenden
Reih 3 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, hlbSt in den Luftmaschenzwischenraum, 2 hlbSt in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reih 4 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, 1 Lm, 1 hlbSt, 1 Lm, 1 Masche auslassen, 2BmhlbSt in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reih 5 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, (hlbSt in Luftmaschenzwischenraum, hlbSt), hlbSt bis zur und in die vorletzte Masche, 2 halbe Stäbchen in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reih 6 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, 1 Lm, (hlbSt, 1 Lm, 1 Masche auslassen – wiederholen bis zur vorletzten Masche), 2BmhlbSt in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reih 7 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, hlbSt bis einschließlich zur vorletzten Masche (auch in die Luftmaschenzwischenräume), 2 hlbSt in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reihe 6 und 7 noch 5 x wiederholen.
Jetzt geht es an die langsamen Reihen:
Reih 18 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), 2 hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, hlbSt in jede Masche bis einschließlich zur vorletzten, 2BmhlbSt, wenden.
Reih 19 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, hlbSt bis einschließlich zur vorletzten Masche, 2 hlbStb in die letzte Masche, wenden.
Reih 20 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, 1 Lm, (hlbSt, 1 Lm, 1 Masche auslassen – wiederholen bis zur vorletzten Masche), 2BmhlbSt
Reih 21 2 Lm (zählt nicht als Masche), hlbSt in die gleiche Masche, hlbSt bis einschließlich zur vorletzten Masche (auch in die Luftmaschenzwischenräume), 2 hlbSt in die letzte Masche, wenden
Die Reihe 18-21 noch 2 x wiederholen.
Jetzt folgenden Satz arbeiten:
(Reihen 6 und 7 sieben Mal wiederholen, dann Reihen 18-21 drei Mal wiederholen). Das ergibt einen kompletten Satz aus schnellen und langsamen Reihen.
Diesen Satz so oft wiederholen, bis man nur noch ausreichend Garn hat, um mit einer langsamen Reihe zu enden. Nicht nur nach einer Reihe 6 oder 7 aufhören!
Wenn die Maschenprobe passt bleibt nur sehr wenig Garn über.
Faden vernähen und das Tuch spannen.
Für Garn in Deutschland bietet die Scheepjes-Website hier eine umfangreiche Händlerliste. Wenn Ihr Lieblingsgeschäft keine Scheepjes auf Lager hat, fragen Sie sie: Warum nicht ?!
23 sts and 14 rows (in pattern) to measure 10 x 10 cm (4in) using a 4mm (G) hook
Ch chain Miss miss instructed number of stitches Htr half treble crochet 2htrcl 2 half treble cluster (see notes) HtrInc Half treble increase (2 htr in the same stitch)
This is a beginner friendly pattern, worked back and forth in rows, increasing at one side only. The shawl will become a large triangle.
Repeat instructions between brackets (…) where instructed.
Ch2 at the beginning of each row, this does not count as a stitch throughout.
The 2htrcl at the end of each second row is to straighten the edge, making a border redundant. To work the 2htrcl, yarn over hook, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
Stitch counts are deliberately left out of this pattern to condense the length. Each row will increase by one stitch. Remember, when working a fast lane (htr, ch1, miss 1) row, you should always have an odd stitch count. The return row will be even.
Row 1 Ch3, 2htr in the third ch from the hook, turn. Row 2 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), htr in the same, ch1, 2htrcl in the last. Turn Row 3 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr in the ch space, htrInc in the last, turn. Row 4 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, htr next, ch1, miss 1, 2htrcl in the last, turn. Row 5 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, (htr in ch space, htr), repeat to and into second last, htrInc. Row 6 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 7 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 five more times.
Now work the slow lanes:
Row 18 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htrInc in the same, htr to and into second last, 2htrcl. Row 19 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last, htrInc. Row 20 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, ch1, (htr, ch1, miss 1) to and into second last, 2htrcl Row 21 Ch2 (does not count as a stitch), htr in the same, htr to and into second last (including ch spaces), htrInc
Repeat rows 18-21 twice more.
Now work in the following sets:
(Repeat rows 6 and 7 seven times, then repeat rows 18-21 three times), which will create one full set of fast and slow lanes.
Continue in these sets until there is just enough yarn so that you will finish with a slow lane. Do not finish on a row 6/7 repeat alone. If the tension has been matched, there will only be a small amount of yarn left over. Weave in ends and block to size.
14 stitches X 22 rows in pattern unblocked Although tension isn’t crucial, if you knit loosely you may not have enough yarn to match the repeats and pattern
CA (CB) colour A (B) Rs right side Ws wrong side K knit Kfb knit front back (increase) K2tog knit 2 together (decrease) YO yarn over Slwyif slip one stitch, purl-wise with the yarn in front
This is a beginner friendly pattern, worked back and forth in rows, increasing at one side only. The shawl will become a large triangle.
Repeat instructions between brackets […] the instructed amount of times.
When alternating colours, carry the yarn up the side of the work. Make sure the non-working yarn is in front when slipping the working yarn onto the needle.
1. Cast on 3
2. K to end
3. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (4)
4. Ws slwyif, k to end (4)
5. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (5)
6. Ws sl1wyif, k to end (5)
7. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (6)
8. Ws slwyif, k to end (6)
9. Rs slwyif, kfb [YO, k2tog] to last 2, k2 (7)
10. Ws slwyif, k to end (7)
11. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (8)
12. Ws slwyif, k2tog, k to end (7)
*4 stitches increased
Working in sets of 10 row repeats:
13. Rs, slwyif, kfb, k to end (8)
14. Ws slwyif, k to end (8)
15. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (9)
16. Ws slwyif, k to end (9)
17. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (10)
18. Ws slwyif, k to end (10)
19. Rs slwyif, kfb, [YO, k2tog] to last 2, k2 (11)
20. Ws slwyif, k to end (11)
21. Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end (12)
22. Ws slwyif, k2tog, k to end (11)
*4 stitches increased
Repeat rows 13-22 a total of 16 times. Keep track easily by counting the rows with the holes made by the YO k2tog.
Now we will introduce the stripes. Don’t cut the yarn, instead carry it up the side.
1. CB (holding CA in front of the work) Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end
2. Ws slwyif, k to end
3. CA (holding CB in front of the work), Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end
4. Ws k to end
5. CB (holding CA in front of the work), Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end
6. Ws slwyif, k to end
7. CA (holding CB in front of the work) Rs slwyif, kfb, [YO, k2tog] to last 2, k2
8. Ws slwyif, k to end
9. CB (holding CA in front of the work) Rs slwyif, kfb, k to end
10. Ws slwyif, k2tog, k to end
*4 stitches increased
Repeat rows 1-10 a total of 5 times
Switch to CB, repeat rows 13-22 for a total of 8 times, or until running out of yarn.
Bind off loosely, weave in ends, wet block.
Make sure you add your project to Ravelry so we can all see your colour choices, and share your photos on Instagram with #scheepjes, #missneriss and #flatoutfabulousshawl so the entire Scheepjes community can also enjoy your progress!
Each year the amazing team at Scheepjes puts on a couple of yarnie days at their offices for our tribe to hang out together and learn new skills, and a few secrets if we’re lucky, but this year they surprised us all with a trip to YARNDALE!
We all congregated in the Old Swan Hotel in beautiful Harrogate on Thursday evening after most of us flew to Manchester. I could relive my tour guide days by playing bus chauffeur for the journey, although I didn’t force anyone to sing songs (this time). After a lovely dinner we were all exhausted and most of us collapsed in bed by 10 pm! This is virtually unheard of, most years the naughty kids (I’ll leave it up to you to guess who they are) stay up until all hours of the night gossiping, laughing and crying.
On Friday we all met in The Penthouse in the hotel for a day of chatting, and getting to know our newer additions (Matt and Christina), and waiting for poor Rachele who had been terribly delayed in the US. At least this year she actually made it! Last year she was stuck in Texas because of flooding, so we were all very grateful she could be with us after her epic journey. In the afternoon we headed outside to enjoy the glorious Yorkshire weather (I bet that’s something you never read in a sentence). It was almost hot in the sun!
First thing Saturday morning we all piled into our vans and zoomed off to Yarndale! We stocked (and re-stocked) all the shelves, and suddenly the masses were pouring in!
I was able to sneak off and do a lap of the festival with Susan where we saw some of the most beautiful and colourful yarns (loads of pics on my insta) before heading back to the Scheepjes stand to meet all of the wonderful people who had come from far and wide to see us. And when I say far and wide, I’m not joking! Much to my delight, I met no less than two fellow Australians!
For two amazing, energy-filled days, we all hugged and laughed and shared our passion for all things yarn and creative with every single person who dared venture in our direction. It was a cool opportunity for the many people who have never been able to squish Scheepjes yarns to come in, and receive advice on the types of projects they could make, which colours they should choose, and to meet yarn-celebs like Dedri, our very own megastar and British Knitting and Crochet Award winner, who’s smack in the middle of the Ubuntu CAL.
However, the real star of the weekend was Tammy! I saw at least a dozen Read Between the Lines shawls getting around, and the makers were all so incredibly proud to be able to share their results with her. And it’s no small feat, at 2km of yarn knitted on 3mm needles!
I felt so proud to see my dear friend shine – although I couldn’t really see her; she was constantly buried in a crush of fans. It was just wonderful to be able to stand back and watch all my friends experience the love and admiration that the visitors were piling onto them.
I honestly couldn’t tell you what the biggest highlight was. It was all amazing. I so look forward to this weekend every year; we’ve become like a family now, fully invested in one another’s lives. And even though we all talk almost daily, there’s nothing like the energy of being in a room together for a weekend to lift your spirits.
All of this is thanks to Scheepjes, who make it all possible. It wasn’t a small undertaking to get us all to Yarndale, that’s for sure! So, even though I think I said it a million times during the course of the weekend, here’s one more thank you. This tribe truly brings meaning to my life.
Now, check out my Insta highlights reel from Yarndale, it’s the best!
I’m joining in on all the excitement surrounding the launch of Lisa Cook’s new book; Delicious Crochet Shawls, 21 stylish crochet shawls. Did you see the Peaches and Cream shawl that @angelala242 shared on Instagram yesterday? Gorgeous, isn’t it!
All of September you’ll have seen gorgeous photos and projects from instagrammers and bloggers all over the world sharing their love for this new book and I’m no different.
This book is Lisa’s first; you know her as @lisasattik on Instagram, and you likely have at least one of her gorgeous patterns in your Ravelry library.
You can buy the book on Book Depository (my favourite bookstore) here*, or Amazon here*.
I decided to make the cover girl shawl, Berry Lime Pie, using a skein from my stash (gorgeous 4ply yarn from one of my fave indie dyers, Vanessa at My Creative Garage).
Because this is a single skein pattern, it’s the perfect size for a small person, and I just happen to have the perfect small person on hand to model it!
I love the open stitches and the shape. This particular pattern worked up very quickly. It could easily be done during a long car trip or a flight.
I thoroughly recommend this book, it is filled with patterns for beginner through to advanced crocheters, with extensive written instructions and outstanding charts and the sweet eats theme is just a lot of fun.
I also loved that I could stash dive to make my shawl; sometimes it can be so frustrating when you find a pattern you love, but are missing a ball or two, or just don’t have the right weight in the right colour. As if I need an excuse to go yarn shopping, but still!
Up next in the blog tour is Sweet Sharna. You know her from instagram, of course. Be sure to follow her here and check out which shawl from the book she has been working on tomorrow!
And here’s another look at @angelala’s Peaches and Cream:
I hope your start to 2018 have been as great as mine – we took an amazing family holiday to San Diego over Christmas, which was my first ever trip to North America, and I LOVED it! San Diego is a fantastic city, I could almost pretend I was in Australia. We ate our Christmas dinner outside in the sunshine, the kids played in the pool (well, the heated jacuzzi. It wasn’t that warm) and we just completely unplugged and enjoyed being together.
And now we’re back to reality, and it’s reveal time!
Just before Christmas I talked to you about the Our Tribe yarn collection from Scheepjes, and that I have my very own colourway, MissNeriss, and how proud I am. I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the warm and positive messages and reactions, it was just the best way to close out the year.
I’ve finished working on my Our Tribe, My Tribe shawl, and have a couple of versions to share with you!
The first is the Original, using a single colour (MissNeriss, obviously):
And I’ve also created a fade version too!
For my fade I used New Leaf, Look at What I made, and Jellina Creations. They’re three colours that to look at them in a ball you probably wouldn’t consider them as complementary, but they’re actually a great match, thanks to the common elements.
For something bit different, I’m going to host a mini-CAL! So when the pattern launches next week, I’m going to start making a new one, and post progress pics as I go, and I want you to join me! That way we can work on it together, chat about how much we love the yarn (obviously!) and I can help you through any parts where you might become stuck.
I’m going to host the mini-CAL on Instagram, under the tag #ourtribemytribe and to be the first to know about the pattern release (and to get a discount), make sure you’re signed up to receive my newsletter which will go out at the beginning of next week!
Ahead of the pattern launch and mini-CAL, make sure you get hold of the yarn!
For the single colour shawl you’ll need two skeins of Scheepjes My Tribe in MissNeriss (or another colourway should you prefer, and for the fade you’ll need three colourways, including New Leaf, Look at What I Made and Jellina Creations. Or of course a three colour fade in your choice. Be sure to choose colourways with similar elements throughout.
To get hold of the yarns, here’s a list of some of my favourite suppliers, in NL and beyond:
Wool Warehouse:* has you covered globally (including Australia and the US)
Caro’s Atelier*: my local yarn store here in Almere, with all the Our Tribe yarns, plus the entire Scheepjes range with great service!
Magnolia Tree Wools*: a small business, based in the UK, with a growing selection of Our Tribe yarns (including MissNeriss), plus lots of other scrummy things you didn’t know you need.
Of course there are also a bunch of other retailers across Europe, and a growing range in North America. You can find all the stockists on the Scheepjes site here.
And to tide you over for a few more days, here are some more photos!
Let me know what you think in the comments, and speak to you next week. I’m off to choose a new fade for my next Our Tribe My Tribe shawl in time for the min-CAL!