Well isn’t it obvious? This is the neon bag literally of my dreams 😀
I love the look of a crochet cross-body bag, but wasn’t entirely sure on the colours I wanted to use, UNTIL Scheepjes launched their neon catonas. I knew instantly that it was a done deal.
GET THE YARN
Scheepjes Catona is a 100% mercerised cotton, fingering weight yarn, with balls available in 50g, 25g and teeny tiny 10g sizes.
Scheepjes has a full list of stockists on their website.
Wool Warehouse ships all over the world from the UK Caro’s Atelier is my LYS and they also ship across Europe LoveCrafts.com also stock most colours
The pattern is in progress, should be ready soon. Lots of fun parts and only a single ball of each colour. I also bought the plastic chain online, but I’ll provide alternative instructions for you so it can be 100% crochet.
Ik heb de Nederlandstalige versie van mijn Rainbow Ridge Blanket toegevoegd! Het is hieronder, en ook op Ravelry/Lovecrafts te vinden als je liever een PDF printvriendelijke versie willen gebruiken.
100 x 70 cm na opspannen (kan iets kleiner uitvallen door spanning in het garen)
Stekenverhouding
18 stn en 19 rijen meten 10 cm in patroon. Houd de stekenverhouding goed in de gaten, want je hebt weinig speling met deze kleine bolletjes. Afkortingen
(NL termen) L losse Hv halve vaste S(tn) steek/steken l-open lossen opening St stokje(s) SOv sla-over vaste (zie speciale steken) HK hoofdkleur (2622 Latte) K(1) kleur (1) Herh herhalen VK Voorkant AK Achterkant
Notities
Je haakt het patroon in rijen heen en weer, met de SOv techniek (zie Speciale steken). Daarna haak je de dubbele rand in toeren.
Elk rij begint met een l1. Dit telt niet als een steek.
Herhalingen
[(…)] herhaal de instructies tussen haakjes het totaal aantal keer aangegeven.
Sorteer de kleuren in deze volgorde:
K1: 2514 Rose K2: 2513 Light Rose K3: 2620 Starfish K4: 2466 Peach K5: 2518 Canary K6: 2496 Banana K7: 2640 Mint K8: 2639 Green Tea K9: 2630 Arctic K10: 2646 Glacial Mist K11: 2658 Lavender K12: 2657 Orchid
Speciale steken
SOv (Sla-over vaste) is een techniek waarmee we een steek met twee draden tegelijk haken. Met de eerste kleur, steek naald in steek en sla de draad om de haaknaald. Haal de lus op. Met de tweede kleur, sla draad om van voor naar achter (houd de tweede kleur voor de eerste), met de eerste kleur, sla draad om en haal de eerste kleur door alle lussen.. Zie video instructies hier. Ook op Youtube.
Instructies
Rij 1 Met HK, 102l, 1v in derde l en alle l tot einde van rij, keer om. (100 stn) Rij 2 Met K1 als leidende kleur, samen met HK, l1, SOv in alle stn tot rij-eind, keer om. Rij 3-6 Herh Rij 2. Rij 7 Met HK als leidende kleur, herh Rij 2. Rij 8-10 Herh Rij 7. Rij 11-14 Herh Rij 2, knip draad K1 af. Rij 15 Wissel naar K2, met HK als leidende kleur, herh Rij 7. Rij 16-18 Herh Rij 7. Rij 19 Met K2 als leidende kleur, herh Rij 2. Rij 20-22 Herh Rij 2. Rij 23 Met HK als leidende kleur, herh Rij 7. Rij 24-26 Herh Rij 7. Rij 27 Met K2 als leidende kleur, herh Rij 2. Rij 28-30 Herh Rij 2, knip draad K2 af. Rij 31-46 Met K3, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 47-62 Met K4, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 63-78 Met K5, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 79-94 Met K6, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 95-111 Met K7, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 112-127 Met K8, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 128-143 Met K9, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 144-159 Met K10, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 160-175 Met K11, herh Rij 15-30. Rij 176-191 Met K12, herh Rij 15-30. Knip draad K12 af.
Rand
De rand haak je in toeren, eerst met een 6 mm en daarna een 4 mm haaknaald.
Toer 1Deze toer wordt de VK. Met HK en 6 mm haaknaald, keer om, 2l, 1hv in elke s tot einde van rij (dit is nu de hoek), 2l, roteer 90 graden, 1hv in elk rij-eind, zo dichtbij de zijkant als mogelijk, tot de volgende hoek, 1hv in de hoek, 2l, roteer 90 graden, 1hv in elke l tot de volgende hoek, roteer 90 graden, 1hv in elk rij-eind tot de laatste hoek, sluit met een hv in eerste s.
Toer 2 Met 4 mm haaknaald, 1l, 1v in de hoek-open [(1l, sla 1 s over, 1v in l-open) tot hoek-open, 2l, 1v in l-open], herh tot einde van toer, sluit toer niet in laatste l-open, maar haak hv in v.
Toer 3 1hv in elke s tot hoek-open, 1l, [(1l in l-open, 1l) tot hoek-open, (1v, 2l, 1v) in hoek-open], herh tot einde van toer, 1l, sluit af met hv in v.
Toer 4 Herh Toer 3, maar voeg 1 extra herh van (1l, v, 1l) toe voordat je de toer sluit met een hv.
Toer 5 Herh Toer 4, hecht af.
Omdraaien naar AK Hecht aan in in AK van dezelfde hoek als Toer 1 van de rand, en haak Toer 1 opnieuw, maar nu in de AK van de hv van Toer 1 (VK). Herh daarna Toer 2-5 (deze bevinden zich dus aan AK).
Omdraaien naar VK We sluiten nu de dubbele rand en verbergen alle draadjes daarin als volgt: 1l, 1v in l-open van zowel laatste AK als laatste VK toer, [(1l, 1v in l-open van beide toeren) tot de hoek-open, (1v, 1l, 1v in beide toeren) in hoek l-open], herh tot einde van toer, sluit af met een hv.
I LOVED making this blanket SO much! I mean, you know how few blankets I make, right? I simply struggle with making something so huge, it takes me months! This one however, is perfect for my instant gratification heart. I could smash it out relatively quickly as it’s sized for a baby, and the rhythm of the stitches means you just want to keep doing “one more row.”
The Scheepjes Softfun is a wonderful blanket yarn. It has loads of stretch to make it squishy and a bit of weight to add warmth, plus enough cotton to make sure you can still use it all summer long.
No baby? No problem! It also makes a great lap blanket 😉
There will be US terms available on Ravelry and Lovecrafts, and this free version below uses UK terminology.
There are five different Softfun colour packs to choose from including Pastel (which I have), Jewel, Rich, Rainbow and Cloud. There are a full list of stockists on the Scheepjes website, but you can also find the packs at your favourite LYS or online retailer including: Wool Warehouse* (global) Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe) Love Crafts* (US) Dot’s Yarn Den (US) Belle Mae Yarns (AU)
You’ll need one colour pack in the colours you like best, plus 6 balls of Softfun in a complementary colourway. I chose 2622 Latte.
18sts and 19 rows over 10 cm in pattern. Stick as close to the tension as possible as the mini balls are limited and you may run out if your tension is looser than indicated.
Measurements
100 x 70cm blocked (will contract a little due to the stretch in the yarn)
Abbreviations
(UK terms)
Ch chain Ss slip stitch St(s) stitch(es) Ch chain Ch(2)-sp chain (2) space Dc double crochet YUdc yarn under double crochet MC main colour (2622 Latte) CC(1) contrast colour. Number denotes which colour to be used Rep repeat RS right side WS Wrong side
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked back and forth in rows using the yarn under colourwork technique to make the blanket. The double border is worked in rounds.
Each row begins with a ch1, this does not count as a stitch.
Work instructions inside brackets and parentheses [(…)] the indicated number of times.
Sort the colours into the following order:
CC1: 2514 Rose CC2: 2513 Light Rose CC3: 2620 Starfish CC4: 2466 Peach CC5: 2518 Canary CC6: 2496 Banana CC7: 2640 Mint CC8: 2639 Green Tea CC9: 2630 Arctic CC10: 2646 Glacial Mist CC11: 2658 Lavendar CC12: 2657 Orchid
Special Abbreviation
YUdc (yarn under double crochet) is a colourwork technique using two strands of working yarn. To work the stitch insert hook with mc, yoh, pull up a loop, with cc yoh from front to back (keeping cc in front of mc), with mc yoh, pull through 3 loops. See video instructions here on Instagram, or here for Youtube.
Row 1 With MC, ch102, dc in the third ch and in all ch sts to end (100sts), turn Row 2 With CC1 as the lead, carrying MC, ch1, YUDC in all sts to end, turn Row 3-6 Rep row 2 Row 7 With MC as the lead and rep row 2 Row 8-10 Rep row 7 Row 11-14 Rep row 2, cut CC1 Row 15 Switch to CC2, with MC as the lead, rep row 7 Row 16-18 Rep row 7 Row 19 With CC2 as the lead, rep row 2 Row 20-22 Rep row 2 Row 23 With MC as the lead, rep row 7 Row 24-26 Rep row 7 Row 27 With CC2 as the lead, rep row 2 Row 28-30 Rep row 2, cut CC2 Row 31-46 With CC3 rep rows 15-30 Row 47-62 With CC4 rep rows 15-30 Row 63-78 With CC5 rep rows 15-30 Row 79-94 With CC6 rep rows 15-30 Row 95-111 With CC7 rep rows 15-30 Row 112-127 With CC8 rep rows 15-30 Row 128-143 With CC9 rep rows 15-30 Row 144-159 With CC10 rep rows 15-30 Row 160-175 With CC11 rep rows 15-30 Row 176-191 With CC12 rep rows 15-30, cut yarn
Border
Working in rounds with 6 and 4mm hooks
Round 1 This now becomes the RS. With MC and a 6mm hook, turn, ch2, ss to end (now corner), ch2, rotate 90 degrees, ss in each row as close to the edge as possible to next corner, ss in corner, ch2, rotate 90 degrees, ss in each st across, ch2, rotate 90 degrees, ss in each row to next corner, ss to ch1 to join.
Round 2 With 4mm hook ch1, dc in ch-sp [(ch1, miss 1, dc in ch-sp) rep to corner ch2-sp, ch 2, dc in ch2-sp], rep on all four sides to end, don’t work last dc in final corner ch2-sp, ss to dc instead.
Round 3 Ss to ch2-sp, ch1 [(dc in ch2-sp, ch1) rep to corner, (dc, ch2, dc) in corner] rep to end, ch1, ss to dc to join.
Round 4 Rep round 3, but ad 1 (ch1, dc, ch1) at the end before ss to join.
Round 5 Rep round 4, tie off.
Flip to WS, Starting in the same corner as R1 from the RS instructions, and working in the back of the SS from round 1, rep rounds 1-5.
Flip to RS Close the double border. Ch1, dc into ch-sp of both layers, [(ch1,dc in ch-sp of both layers) to corner, (dc, ch1, dc in both layers) in corner ch2-sp], rep to end, ss to join, hiding all the ends inside the border. Cut yarn, weave in the end, block to size.
Scheepjes Cahlista is an aran weight yarn, made with 100% cotton. I’m using two balls of colour 074 Mercury, and you will also need a single ball of the complementary colour. Have a look at the Scheepjes Website for colour inspiration and stockists, there are more than 100 colours to choose from!
You can order the yarn online from my local yarn store Caro’s Atelier*.
Note: this version of the pattern uses UK terms. If you would like to access US terms or printable PDFs in both UK and US terms, you can purchase the patterns from either Ravelry or Lovecrafts.com for a small fee.
Please share your projects using #KoalaLovey in the socials and tag me everywhere!
Let’s go!
Materials
MC: Scheepjes Cahlista in 074 Mercury – 2 balls (100% cotton, aran weight, 50g, 85m) CC: Scheepjes Cahlista in your choice – 1 ball (100% cotton, aran weight, 50g, 85m) Scrap black, preferably Scheepjes Cahlista – about 2 metres I used 385 Chrystalline and 256 Cornelia Rose in my samples. 4mm hook (amigurumi parts) 6mm hook (mini-blanket) 5mm hook (border of mini-blanket) Toy filling (or you can stuff the head with scrap yarn or anything you have at home that will be a bit squishy)
Tension
Mini-blanket: 16 rows and 17sts over 10 cm in YUdc
Head: not important, but stitches should be tight, so use at least a hook size down from what the yarn recommends.
Measurements
Mini-blanket – 30 x 30cm blocked
Abbreviations
(UK terms) Ch chain MR magic ring Ss slip stitch St(s) stitch(es) Ch chain Dc double crochet DcInc double crochet increase (2 sts increased in 1 st) Dec double crochet decrease (1 st worked decreased over 2 sts) HtrInc half treble crochet increase (2 sts increased in 1 st) Tr treble crochet YUdc yarn under double crochet MC main colour CC contrast colour. Rep repeat Pm place marker Rm remove marker Flo front loop only Blo back loop only
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked both amigurumi style in continuous rounds (with no joining) and sewn together to make the koala’s head, and also back and forth in rows using the yarn under colourwork technique to make the mini-blanket.
Work instructions inside parentheses (…) the indicated number of times.
Special Abbreviation
YUdc (yarn under double crochet) is a colourwork technique using two strands of working yarn. To work the stitch insert hook with mc, yoh, pull up a loop, with cc yoh from front to back (keeping cc in front of mc), with mc yoh, pull through 3 loops.
Round 1 6dc in MR (mark first st and move marker up each round to keep track of starting point) (6) Round 2 6dcinc (12) Round 3 (inc, dc) six times (18) Round 4 (inc, 2dc) six times (24) Round 5 (inc, 3dc) six times (30) Round 6 (inc, 4dc) six times (36) Round 7-17 36dc (36) Round 18 dec twice, pm second dec, 14dc, dec twice, pm second dec, 13dc, dec, rm. (32) Round 19 dec, pm, 12dc, dec twice, rm, pm second dec, 11dc, dec, ss. (28)
Cut yarn, leave tail long enough to sew top shut when assembling.
Ear
(make 2) Working in rounds, with MC and 4mm hook
Round 1 6dc in MR (6) Round 2 6dcinc (12) Round 3 (inc, dc) six times (18) Round 4 inc, pm in second st of inc, 8dc, inc, pm in second st of inc, 9dc (20) (starting point is moved by 1st ) Round 5 20dc Round 6 inc, pm in second st of inc, 9dc, inc, pm in second st of inc, 10dc (22) (starting point is moved by 1 st) Round 7-10 22dc. Ss (22)
Cut yarn and leave tail to sew to head when assembling.
Nose
Working in rounds, with black and 4mm hook
Round 1 6dc in MR (6) Round 2 6dcinc (12) Round 3 (3htrinc, 3dc) twice, ss to join (18)
Cut yarn, leave long tail to sew to head and make eyes.
Mini Blanket
Working back and forth in rows using both MC and CC, 6mm hook
Row 1 MC, ch42 Row 2 YUdc in third loop and each ch across to end (40) Row 3 ch1 (does not count as a st), YUDC to end (40) Row 4-42 rep row 3 (40)
Cut MC and continue working the border in CC.
Border
Working in rounds 5 and 6mm hooks
Round 1 turn, with 6mm hook, work 40ss loosely across to corner, ch1, 40ss across the rows (note, there are two more rows than border sts, so you will need to “lose” two sts). Continue around to end and ch1 and ss to 1st st of the round. Round 2 change to 5mm hook, ch2, working into the ss, [tr to corner ch (tr, ch1 tr) in flo of corner ch], rep around to end, ss to join. Cut yarn. Round 3 flip your work so the back is facing you, ss to join at a corner, ch2, tr in the back of the ss from round 1, rep round 2. Round 4 now we’ll join the two rounds. Ch1, dc in the flo of round 3 sts and the corresponding blo from round 2 sts to join the two rounds together. Rep to corner, 3dc in the corner ch, then rep all the way round to end. Ss to join, cut yarn, weave in ends and block.
Assembly
Position nose 7 rounds below opening at mid-point between markers, sew to head. Make eyes 1 st to the side of the nose, 3 sts wide and slightly angled (1 round) upwards at the outer side. Fasten the eye loop on row below to fix it in place.
Stuff the head with toy filling and sew shut. Attach ears to side of head on an angle, 3 sts in from the sides of the sewn shut head.
Sew the head to the middle of the blanket, either using the leftover yarn tails, or a new length of yarn, using round 3 of the head as your guide.
Scheepjes Cahlista is an aran weight yarn, made with 100% cotton. I’m using two balls of colour 074 Mercury, and you will also need a single ball of the complementary colour. Have a look at the Scheepjes Website for colour inspiration and stockists, there are more than 100 colours to choose from!
You can order the yarn online from my local yarn store Caro’s Atelier*.
As I mentioned in my previous posts, I’ve used Scheepjes Cahlista for this design, and it’s really the perfect yarn for baby things. The brushed cotton is soft and because it’s an aran weight it works up fast!
I’ve loved creating this smooshy little lovey. I mean, a sleepy koala, who’d have thought? They only sleep about 20 hours per day!
I came across the technique to create the two colour blanket on Instagram, and it’s called “yarn under.” In my pattern (which will go live soon) I’ve abbreviated the stich to YUDC, or yarn under (UK terms) double crochet.
The pattern is almost ready, the colours look amazing. I can’t wait to share it with you!
Last week I told you about the baby project that I’m working on and I’m making great progress!
My little Koala Lovey is really starting to take shape!
There are almost as many stitch markers as pieces!
Right now it’s a bit like a jigsaw puzzle, everything is there, it all just needs to find the perfect placement so it all fits together, just so.
If you don’t know what a lovey is, I think it’s a very technical term for a stuffed animal head attached to a little square of fabric that babi’s absolutely love to snuggle with and munch on. I remember how much my daughter enjoyed hers, it was adorable! I made a bunch in the past, it was like a mini production line there for a while as babies seemed to be popping out all over the place!
GET THE YARN
Scheepjes Cahlista is an aran weight yarn, made with 100% cotton. I’m using two balls of colour 074 Mercury, and you will also need a single ball of the complementary colour. Have a look at the Scheepjes Website for colour inspiration and stockists, there are more than 100 colours to choose from!
You can order the yarn online from my local yarn store Caro’s Atelier*.
I never really appreciated the colours of Autumn growing up. In Australia we have mostly evergreen trees – Eucalyptus, Acacia, Melaleuca and the like. They tend to look (and smell) beautiful all year round.
It wasn’t until I moved to the northern hemisphere that I really learned to appreciate it. Driving through the Devon lanes and wandering the old forests and moors of de Veluwe in October, or dreaming of visiting Canada in the Autumn. It’s something that the average Australian just doesn’t really get to experience at home.
The biggest joy of them all, however, are the toadstools! Nothing quite triggers the “I’m living in a fairy tale” feeling quite like finding one of these beauties while out wandering.
The glorious shades of red and orange inspired me to choose Scheepjes River Washed(XL) in the colour Avon for my autumn/winter hat pattern, which I’ll be sharing with you over the next few weeks.
Isn’t that colourway perfectly Autumn?
And when you look at the balls in the sunshine, it’s like they’re on fire, the way the forest looks when hit by the late afternoon sunshine in October. I love it.
Get the Yarn
Scheepjes has a complete list of stockists on their website. Most of their retailers stock Stone Washed and River Washed, but if not, don’t be afraid to ask them to get it in!
Here in the Netherlands, Caro’s Atelier* has River Washed and River Washed XL, plus they’re my LYS (and awesome).
In the US, Jimmy Beans stocks Stone Washed and Stone Washed XL, which you can easily substitute for River Washed.
In Australia Little Woollie also stocks Stone Washed and Stone Washed XL
For my hat project you’ll need two balls of River Washed and one ball of River Washed XL. You can easily substitute Stone Washed, as it’s essentially the same yarn with a different coloured core (white core in SW opposed to a coloured core in RW). The sizing will be for adults, but my daughter is already asking for her own, so let’s see how that goes later on!
Stay tuned for progress in the next week or so, but in the meantime I want to know your favourite Stone Washed or River Washed colourway. Who knows, I’m thinking of gifting some – ’tis the season afterall! Let me know on my Instagram.
It’s been a long time in the making, but here she is!
The pattern is available to download from Ravelry here. Through the end of this weekend (until the 12th of July 2020) you will receive 50% off the pattern, plus an extra surprise at checkout, so don’t wait too long!
If you have issues with Ravelry access, please reach out to me at missnerisscrochet@gmail.com and we will arrange an easy alternative for you.
Why Shallow?
I wanted to create a shawl that had enough wingspan to wrap around my shoulders, cross over my chest and tie in a knot behind my back – Claire Fraser style, but not so big that it would be cumbersome.
So I needed to figure out construction to make a more obtuse angle, and eventually Shallow came to life, named for the more shallow depth.
What yarn do you need?
The pattern calls for either three balls of Scheepjes Metropolis (150g fingering weight yarn), or a single Scheepjes Whirl (or Woolly Whirl) cake. There are instructions included for both yarns, so you can choose your favourite.
My Whirl sample is made with shade 560 Jade Jim Jam and the Metropolis version uses 045 Perth. I think the design suits both a solid colour and the long whirl colour changes perfectly.
Get the supplies
Wool Warehouse* ships globally (although check their shipping process due to Covid-19 restrictions if ordering from outside the UK) Choose your Scheepjes Whirl here*. Choose your Scheepjes Metropolis here*.
Caro’s Atelier will also ship pretty much everywhere, and they’re my local yarn shop (and great people!) Choose your Scheepjes Whirl here*. Choose your Scheepjes Metropolis here*.
(If you own a yarn store and stock either or both of the listed yarns, please feel free to add direct links to your product page in the comments of this post.)
Tips from me
One thing you’ll see quickly is that the stitch placement is a bit tricky while you’re getting the hang of the pattern. I recommend you use stitch markers to keep track of your counts to prevent one side suddenly becoming longer than the other.
Another tip: if you match gauge, you’ll be able to follow the instructions without much issue, but if you find using Whirl that your tension is looser than mine, you can follow the Metropolis instructions instead. It will just mean fewer rows to work.
The pattern includes two charts which will help you progress, and there’s a handy puff stitch video that I’ve linked in the pattern as well.
Finally, as with all patterns, the more languages the better! If you would like to volunteer to translate this pattern into your local language, please do reach out to me via email (missnerisscrochet.com) and we can go through it together.
Enjoy, I can’t wait to see your ravelry projects and instagram posts. Use #shallowshawl so I can find it, and tag me @miss__neriss.
Note: this version uses UK terms. If you’d prefer US terms, or a PDF printer friendly version you can find it on Ravelry for a small fee. As always, the Dutch version will appear in the near future.
40cm wide by 55cm high, laid flat (but worked in the round), blocked
Tension
17 sts and 10 rounds to measure 10 x 10 cm over pattern unblocked.
Abbreviations
(UK terms) Ch chain St(s) stitch(es) dc double crochet htr half treble crochet tr treble crochet dtr double treble crochet fptr front post treble crochet bptr back post treble crochet Ss slip stitch Patt pattern Rep repeat
Notes
This pattern is worked in rounds, joining at the end of each round. Tension is important due to using the entire cake with little leftover. Finish the body of the cowl on a row 7 and begin working the rib. Repeats are described as (dtr, ch1, tr). When smaller sets of repeats are needed inside your initial repeat, it will be described as (dc in dtr, ch1 [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1).
Instructions
Round 1 ch120, join being careful not to twist your chain. Round 2 ch2 (does not count as a st), tr in each ch around, ss to join. Round 3 ch3 (does not count as a st), (fptr, bptr) alternating in each st around, ss to join. Round 4-5 repeat round 3, working fptr in fptr and bptr in bptr from the previous round to create a rib. Round 6 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first st, ch1, miss 2, dc, (ch1, miss 2 [tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr] in the next, ch1, miss 2, dc) 19 times, ch1, miss 2, (tr, ch1) in the first, ss to join. Round 7 ch1, (does not count as a st), (dc in dtr, ch1 [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1) around, ss to join. Round 8 ch1, (does not count as a st), (dc, ch1, miss ch1, miss tr, [tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr] in ch-sp, ch1, dc in dc) rep to last dc, ch1, miss ch, miss tr, (tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr) in ch-sp, ch1, ss to join. Round 9 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first, ch1, (dc in tr, ch1, [dtr, ch1, tr] in dc, ch1) rep to last, ch1, dc in tr, ch1, ss to join. Round 10 ch3, (does not count as a st), (dtr, ch1, tr) in the first, ch1, dc in dc, ch1, miss ch1, miss tr, (tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr) in ch-sp, ch1, dc in dc, ch1) to last, ss to join. Rounds 11-50 Rep rounds 7-10 10 more times. Round 51 Rep round 7. Round 52 ch2, (does not count as a st), tr in each st and ch-sp around to last, ss to join. Rounds 53-55 rep row 3 3 times. Optional round turn, ss in each sts loosely (go up a hook size if necessary) to create the same tension as the first ch round.
Ready? Here we go! How’s this for a statement piece?
I’ve created a long, wide gradient scarf. Long enough wind around and around, and wide enough to wear around your shoulders.
The cotton is soft and the blues are stunning. My mum would have loved this scarf. She was all about blues and she would have rocked this.
So, I’ve decided to name the scarf for her. My mum was Jan (the English pronunciation, not the dutch man’s name) and because she would have quickly commandeered this one I’m calling it Jan’s Scarf.
For the design I’ve used three hanks of Scheepjes Skies light, in shades 109 Cirrocumulus, 110 Cirrus and 111 Cumulus. You can also use a set of the minis, but the meterage is slightly less so you may have a scarf that is just a bit narrower than if you were to use three full hanks.
I’m busy working on the pattern right now, which will be ready for you this time next week.
The cotton is soft and the blues are stunning. My mum would have loved this scarf. She was all about blues and she would have rocked this.
MissNeriss 
