Tag Archives: tutorial

Spring Motif – Photo Tutorial

It feels as though Spring has raced on by, and we’re hurtling headlong into an Australian style summer!  Although, that’s pretty optimistic, summer will likely only last this week, but I can never help myself.  I always get excited when the temperatures crack 20 degrees…

As promised, I’ve put together a little set of instructions to make the Spring Motif.  I decided to make this one a photo tutorial for you.

What You’ll Need

4 mini 25g skeins of Scheepjes Catona in colours:

  • 226 Light Orchid
  • 114 Shocking Pink
  • 385 Chrystalline
  • 280 Lemon

3mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Blocking mat(s) and pins

Note: I’m using US terms for this tutorial and the pattern is worked in rounds, slip stitching to join each round, and changing colours almost every round as well.  Try to weave in ends as you go, to save work at the end.

Round 1:

12 DC (double crochet) stitches into a MR (magic ring). SS (slip stitch) to join.

12 DC (double crochet) stitches into a MR (magic ring).  SS (slip stitch) to join.

Round 2:

Begin the round with a standing DC, DC into the same stitch, then work 2 DC into each stitch around, ending with 24 stitches.

Begin the round with a standing DC, DC into the same stitch, then work 2 DC into each stitch around, ending with 24 stitches.

Round 3:

Add the next colour with a standing DC, ch (chain) 1, DC in the same stitch. Miss 1 st, then V-stitch (DC, CH1, DC in the same stitch) in the next. Repeat the V-stitch around, with one stitch between each.

Add the next colour with a standing DC, ch (chain) 1, DC in the same stitch.  Miss 1 st, then V-stitch (DC, CH1, DC in the same stitch) in the next.  Repeat the V-stitch around, with one stitch between each.

Round 4:

Join the next colour with into the chain space of the V-stitch and work 2 DC clusters (YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO pull through all loops) into each V-Stitch with ch3 between each one.

Join the next colour with into the chain space of the V-stitch with half of a standing DC (ie. do not pull through all loops to complete the stitch, keep two loops on the hook.  Alternatively, chain 2) and work 2 DC clusters (YO [yarn over], pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO pull through all loops) into each V-Stitch with ch3 between each one.

Round 5:

Join next colour to the middle loop of the cluster with a HDC (half double crochet). in the ch space, work a DC, Htr (half treble - YO twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, YO, pull through all loops), a Tr (treble crochet), Htr and a DC. HDC into the top loop of the next cluster. Repeat this around in each ch space, slip stitch to join.

Join next colour to the middle loop of the cluster with a HDC (half double crochet). in the ch space, work a DC, Htr (half treble – YO twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, YO, pull through all loops), a Tr (treble crochet), Htr and a DC.  HDC into the top loop of the next cluster.  Repeat this around in each ch space, slip stitch to join.

Round 6:

Join next colour to the top of any HDC with an SC (single crochet). CH3, sc into the Tr from the previous round. CH3, sc into the next HDC. Repeat this around, SS to join.

Join next colour to the top of any HDC with an SC (single crochet).  CH3, sc into the Tr from the previous round.  CH3, sc into the next HDC.  Repeat this around, SS to join.

From here we can go a few different ways. To make the coaster, don’t cut the yarn from finishing round 6.  Instead, change to a 3.5mm hook and continue by working 3 sc into each ch space, and an SC into the top of each SC from the previous round.  Instead of joining, make 2 continuous rounds of slip stitches, into the back loops only.  After the two rounds of slip stitches, join, cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Another option is to create the doily that I shared pics of last week:

spring motif doily

I’ll share instructions with you later in the week on how to make that.

The last option is to go even further and join all the motifs to make a table runner or a throw, or even a shawl.  More on that coming soon too.  But for now I’ll leave you with the motif instructions,

Scheepjes has a huge list of suppliers throughout the Benelux, otherwise worldwide you can order from Wool Warehouse* and for North Americans don’t forget: Knotty House* in Canada is also now stocking Catona!

*Just a note: this post contains a couple of affiliate links which if you choose to use when feeding your yarn habit will earn me a small commission.  This helps me keep up the freebies and doesn’t cost you a thing. Thank you!

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Eliza Bed Socks!

That’s right, I’m making more socks!

img_1651

I’m making some yummy soft bed socks using another (I know, right. I can hardly keep up!) new yarn from Scheepjes.

Scheepjes Eliza, available from Wool Warehouse: http://bit.ly/woolwarehouse

Let me tell you a bit about the yarn; Eliza comes in 36 shades, and 9 of those are gradient yarns.  It’s a 100% polyester yarn and is suitable for a 5mm hook.  I’m using 3.75mm needles for my socks as larger needles were much too big.  It’s lovely and soft, and as well as bed socks I think it would be a great yarn for crocheting or knitting soft toys, or a snuggly cowl.

I’m using – you guessed it – Turquoise Gem (222).

Scheepjes Eliza, available from Wool Warehouse: http://bit.ly/woolwarehouse

To make the socks, I’m using the brilliant tutorials from my fab friend Sarah at Crafts From the Cwtch.  Sarah has created a load of amazing tutorials and they, along with a few frantic texts, have totally taught me to knit socks!

I’m knitting two at a time toe up socks, and will use the afterthought heel method, and Sarah has tutorials for all of them, see below!

A beginner's guide to Two at a time Toe-up socks by Crafts from the Cwtch -http://bit.ly/toe-up-socks

A beginner’s guide to two at a time toe-up socks

 

Demystifying the toe-up sock by Crafts from the Cwtch http://bit.ly/moretoeupsocks

Casting on and knitting the toe

 

Placing the afterthought heel tutorial by Crafts from the Cwtch: http://bit.ly/heelplacement

Adding the Afterthought Heel

Scheepjes Retailers in the Benelux stock Eliza, and globally you can order it via Wool Warehouse*.  Go! Run! Get your Eliza on!

http://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=842729&u=1168367&m=63378&urllink=&afftrack=

*Affiliate link

Textured Chevron Cushion Crochet Tutorial

Here it is, finally!  It’s the tutorial for the Textured Chevron Cushion.  I’ve had the bones of the pattern written for a long time, but it needed some detail.

Unfortunately I won’t be providing my free patterns in a pdf format any more; I have had my Peek-a-Boo Button Wrap stolen and being emailed to people rather than referring them to my blog.  It’s a bit of a shitty thing to do, especially for indie businesses.  We’re all in this together, or so I thought!

Anyway, enough moaning and on with the show!

Chevron Cushion in Scheepjes Aquarel, design by MissNeriss

What You’ll Need

8 balls of Scheepjes Aquarel, one of each colour*.
4mm hook
50x50cm cushion insert

Stitches

Note: All stitches are in US terms.  There are a lot of them, so make sure you pay close attention to what needs to be used where.
CH – Chain Stitch
SS – Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
2HDCTog – Decrease 2 Half Double Crochet into 1
2DCTog – Decrease 2 Double Crochet into 1
3DCTog – Decrease 3 Double Crochet into 1
3HDCTog – Decrease 3 Half Double Crochet into 1
HDC – Half Double Crochet
FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
FP2DCTog – Decrease 2 Front Post Double Crochet into 1
FP3DCTog – Decrease 3 Front Post Double Crochet into 1
Tr – Treble Crochet
DTr – Double Treble Crochet
TrTr – Triple Treble Crochet
3TrTrTog – Decrease 3 Triple Treble Crochet into 1
extDC – Extended Double Crochet

Gauge

1 repeat = 7cm, two rows = 4cm

Notes

You can pick this gorgeous yarn up from Wool Warehouse* in the UK and internationally.  In the Benelux you can find the yarn at any Scheepjes retailer.

The front of the cushion is a 3D textured pattern; the stitches are made around the post of the previous row. The pattern is worked in a 14 stitch repeat, with 7 repeats, 7 rows of each colour and 7 colours changes.

The reverse side is flat, working normal half double crochet stitches.  To match the front, the back is not the same repeat, but instead it is 7 repeats of 12 stitches.

Colours throughout will be named colours 1-8.

When you see a text section between *…*, please repeat that stitch pattern the instructed amount of times.

Chevron Cushion

Front

  1. Using colour 1, CH 100.
  2. DC into the 3rd chain from the hook and the next 6 CH. DC, CH, DC into the next, DC into the next 5 CH, 3DCTog in the next. *DC in next 5 CH, DC, CH, DC, DC in the next, DC into the next 5 CH, 3DCTog in the next.* Repeat 5 times, but the very last stitch of the row will be 2DCTog instead of 3DCTog.  CH2, turn.
  3. CH2, FPDC around the next 6 stitches, FPDC, CH1, FPDC into the next, FPDC into the next 5 stitches, 3FPDCTog in the next, *FPDC in the next 5 stitches, FPDC, CH1, FPDC in the next, FPDC in the next 5 stitches, 3FPDCTog in the next.* Repeat 5 times, except in the very last decrease, which will be 2FPDCTog instead of 3FPDCTog. CH2, turn.
  4. Repeat Row 3 5 times.
  5. Change to colour 2, repeat row 3 7 times.
  6. Repeat steps 3-5 for all 7 colours, tie off and weave in ends.

Textured Chevron crochet pattern in Scheepjes Aquarel

Back

  1. Using colour 1, CH 86.
  2. HDC in the next 4 CH, HDC, CH1, HDC in the next, HDC in the next 4, 3HDCTog in the next. *HDC in the next 4 CH, HDC, CH1, HDC in the next, HDC into the next 4, 3HDCTog in the next.* Repeat 5 times, but in the very last decrease, 2HDCTog instead of 3HDCTog. CH2, turn.
  3. *HDC into the next 4, HDC, CH1, HDC into the next, HDC into the next 4, 3HDCTog into the next.* Repeat 6 times, but in the very last decrease, 2HDCTog instead of 3HDCTog. CH2 turn.
  4. Repeat row 3 5 times.
  5. Change to colour 2 and repeat row 3.
  6. Repeat steps 3-5 for 7 all colours, tie off and weave in ends.

Edging and Join

 Front

  1. Starting at the top and crocheting around the post of the stitches, corner, using colour 8 CH5, TrTr in the next, DTr, Tr, extDC, DC, HDC, then SC into the CH space.  Repeat in reverse: HDC, DC, extDC, Tr, DTr, TrTr decrease in the next three (3TrTrTog). *DTr, Tr, extDC, DC, HDC, SC in the CH space, HDC, DC, extDC, Tr, DTr, 3TrTrTog.*  Repeat 5 times, but the last 3TrTrTog will only be a 2TrTrTog.  Tie off and weave in ends.
  2. Now the top: At the corner, we repeat the above, but we start at the top of the point of the first stitch of the top row.

Back

  1. This time crochet as normal into the top of the stitches. Join at the corner of the bottom row, CH1, *HDC in the next, DC, extDC, Tr, DTr, TrTr, Dtr, Tr, extDC, DC, HDC, SC.* Repeat 6 times.
  2. Repeat the above instructions for the other end, but instead start with CH5, DTr, Tr, extDC, HDC, SC. Continue as above.

 

Join

Slip stitch loosely down each side of both pieces to create a straight edge to join the pieces.  If you need it, a Felted Button has created a wonderful tutorial.

Starting at any corner, hold the wrong sides of both pieces together and HDC crochet through all four loops of each stitch, all the way round, with 3 HDC stitches in each corner. Crochet through all four loops of the slip stitches down the sides.

IMG_0233

When on the final side, stuff the cushion filler in and then close it up and you’re done!

Chevron Cushion in Scheepjes Aquarel, design by MissNeriss

*Affiliate links

#rusticlacesquare Blanket is Finished!

It has taken me months and months, but finally, it’s finished!

unnamed (55)

It’s absolutely beautiful.  Spectacular even.  I really struggled to capture the beauty in photographs, to be honest.

#rusticlacesquare blanket with edging border tutorial on missneriss.com

I used the joining method that Marianne from MaRRose-CCC came up with, which is essentially genius.  The blanket just grew beautifully and the joins are virtually invisible which I just love.  Especially as I hate joining motifs.

unnamed (52)

Once the blanket was done I had to come up with an border.  I searched the internet high and low for inspiration, but to be honest, there aren’t a lot of examples out there.  Cornel Strydom used a simple scalloped edging, which I loved, but wasn’t quite right for me.

In the end I went digging through my crochet stitch bibles, and found an edging that I liked, but wasn’t quite right either, so I decided to modify it slightly.

#rusticlacesquare blanket with edging border tutorial on missneriss.com

Here’s a close-up:

unnamed (51)

So how did I do it?  It’s really very simple.

The pattern works on a 10 stitch repeat, so first of all, what you need to do is do a lap around the blanket in single crochet stitches, to get the edging into multiples of 10.  Each finished square has loose loops at the corners, I joined those with one SC around both loops.  I had to fudge it a little bit, because the squares themselves don’t have quite the right stitch count.  I crocheted into each stitch, and in the chain sections I crocheted one stitch less than the chain.  So when the last round of the square has a chain 3, I single crocheted 2 stitches into that space.  Make sense?  Otherwise the edging will become too ruffly.

On the second round, start at a corner, skip the next 4 stitches, Treble Crochet into the fifth.  Chain 1, and TC, Ch1, 4 more times.  Skip 4 stitches, SC into the next, skip 4 stitches, TC, CH1 5 times into the next.  Repeat that fan pattern all the way around.  there should be a SC at each corner, so there is a fan on each side of the corner.

The third and final round, start at a corner and Double Treble, CH2 8 times into the SC in the corner of the previous round.  SC into the middle TC from the previous round, CH2, DTC (Double Treble Crochet), CH2 4 times into the SC stitch between fans from the previous round. SC into the middle TC from the previous round.  Repeat this all the way round, making sure that you have the 8 DTC stitches in each corner.  If you take a look at the pic above, you’ll see what I mean.

I cobbled together a chart.  It’s not fabulous because I’m still getting my head around the Stitchworks software, but it will help you get the idea.

C:UsersNerissa MuijsDesktop2016-02-17_1145.png

I’m so happy with the results, I just love the blanket. I just want to wrap myself in it, with a cup of tea and enjoy the sunshine.  You know what?  I’m going to do just that. #enjoyeverymoment

 

#rusticlacesquare blanket with edging border tutorial on missneriss.com

For this project I used Scheepjes Linen Soft.  I used almost 5 balls of each colour, and just over two for the border.  I have enough yarn leftover to make at least one matching cushion, when I get the chance.

ETA:  If you haven’t seen or made the square for yourself already, here’s the chart:

wpid-4493016b2e75b00c4f3e080b2d64b3fc.jpg

If you don’t read charts, I’ve found a written description by Crochet Tea Party on Ravelry.

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Wool Warehouse.

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Reveal and How To

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It’s here!  Last week I was showing you the gorgeous Scheepjes Vinci yarn that I was working with, and this week here’s the result!  A beautiful crochet brioche cowl that has barely left my neck since it was completed.

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

I even had to take a selfie or two at the top of a mountain!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It was so cold up there, I needed that cowl let me tell you!

One of the cool things about this cowl, and what the photos don’t really show you (except that top one up there) is that the cowl is reversible!  So, if you prefer vertical colour stripes like I do, you wear it that way, but if you’re more into horizontal, just flip it over and you have a totally different accessory.

So, let’s get down to business.  I’ve created a pdf of the pattern for you.  The pattern also has a photo tutorial on how to do the crochet brioche stitch.  What would you think about possibly seeing a video tutorial?  Should I finally dip my toes in and make one?  Let me know in the comments.

As always, please do share your projects with me on social media.  You know I’m all over Instagram like a bad smell, so tag me @miss__neriss (that’s with two “_”) and also use the hashtag #obsessedwithcrochet.  This is a little community I’m going to build, with more info coming soon…

Click the heading below to be taken to the pattern, and I hope you enjoy!!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Pattern Free Download

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

Don’t forget: you can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Deramores, Wool Warehouse, and at Paradise Fibers in North America!

The Colour Block Knitted Baby Blanket for Beginners – Free Pattern

Last week I showed you the Colour Block Knitted Baby Blanket, and today I have the instruction for you.

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Now, let me tell you, this is absolutely the simplest knitted design you’ve ever come across.  It is the perfect  beginner project, because let’s face it.  That’s precisely what I am!  So, if you’re looking for a simple project that looks fabulous and is not a scarf – I don’t know how many knit one purl one scarves I made as a kid – this one is perfect.  And best of all, it’s not expensive because all you need to complete this is four skeins of Scheepjes Sunkissed, and you’re going to use every metre of those skeins.

Sunkissed by Scheepjes

Scheepjes Sunkissed Knitted Baby Blanket

What You’ll need
Four skeins of Scheepjes Sunkissed in 3, 7, 9, 10
3.5mm needles (I used 80cm circulars)
A tapestry needle to weave in your ends
Blocking boards and wires (or pins)
Eucalan (because it softens everything and smells amazing)

The final measurement of this blanket will be about 60 x 85 cm, so it’s a good buggy size, or snuggly swaddle size.  It’s also lovely and stretchy, and the Sunkissed is soooooooft.

Let’s Go!

Cast on 150 stitches.  I like to use the Slingshot Long Tail Cast on.  When I was starting, I had no clue how to cast on, but my friend Tammy recommended this method and it’s very easy.

Once you’ve cast on your stitches, you need to start making the border.  The design of this blanket is a stockingette stitch body with a garter border.  Essentially a giant swatch!

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Rows 1-5 knit in the garter stitch (knit), then we will start with the body of the blanket.

The first and last five stitches of every row will be in garter stitch and the body (middle 140 stitches) are in stockingette stitch.

Row 6: knit 5, purl 140, knit 5

Row 7: knit 150

Repeat rows 6 and 7 until you’ve finished your first skein of yarn (or until you know you cannot finish another row with the remaining yarn).  Attach the second colour and continue the row 6 and 7 repeat through all four of the colours.

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Each colour block will measure about 21 cm, so when you get to about 19 cm of the final colour, you will need to start working on the top border.  The way I figured this out for myself was to fold the blanket with the join of the fourth colour matching up with the join of the first and second colour so I could see how far I had to go before I should start on the border.  This is because I’m not yet a great judge on how much yarn a row will use.

Knit the final 5 rows of the border, then cast off.  The feeling of accomplishment will be amazing, especially once you block it.

unnamed (11)

You can find the yarn at any great yarn store here in the Netherlands and Belgium, otherwise Deramores ships it world wide!

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

I hope you enjoy making this, and do please share your projects on Ravelry, my Facebook page or on Instagram with hashtag #missneriss and #scheepjes

XN

Peek-a-Boo Button Wrap Pattern Size S-XL

Here it is, what you’ve been waiting for – the pattern for the Peek-a-Boo Wrap!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken

I’ve made this for you in four different sizes, from Small through to XL.

Here you can find a written pattern for size Medium, and below you can find a chart which will give you the measurements and stitch counts for sizes Small, Large and XL.

For the Dutch speakers among us, I’ve also had the design translated.  You can find it here. Veel plezier!

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Wool Warehouse.

And even better, Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell has created a video tutorial, which is enormously helpful!

Are you ready?

What You Need

Scheepjes Stone Washed XL in 850 (Garnet) – 12 balls for size M (I used 11, but get an extra to be safe)
S = 10 balls (each ball of Stone Washed XL has 75 metres)
M = 12 balls
L = 15 balls
XL = 17 balls
7cm bamboo button – you can pick these up at any good craft store, or online
Size 5mm hook (or hook to obtain gauge)
Measuring Tape
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Eucalan wool wash

Gauge

8 stitches x 5 rows = 5cm x 5cm
gauge across gauge up

Stitches

Note: All stitches are in US terms
Chain (CH)
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Half Double Crochet Back Loop Only (HDCBLO)
Half Double Crochet Front Loop Only (HDCFLO)

Size Medium

  1. Chain loosely 119 stitches.  If you’re a tight crocheter, consider going up a hook size to make sure that the chain isn’t too tight.
  2. HDC into the third chain from the hook, and all the way across (a total of 117 stitches across).  CH2, turn.
  3. HDCBLO in the first stitch, HDCFLO in the next.  Repeat this front and back (HDCBLO/FLO) format all the way across, CH2, turn.  Note:  It’s important to ensure that you have an odd number of stitches to make it easier to achieve the texture of the stitches.  If you finish the row in the back loop, when you start the next row, start in the front loop and vice versa.  You’ll find very quickly as you go that the look of the wrap will be different if you don’t maintain the BLO then FLO stitch pattern in alternating stitches.Stitch view vest
  4. Repeat this pattern building rows for 25cm.
  5. Now we are going to make the first sleeve.  Follow the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 20 stitches, then CH 35, skip 35, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.  Make sure you double check that you stitch into the BLO or FLO correctly (if the stitch in the row below was FLO, you need to stitch into the BLO).
  6. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 35 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.  the short end becomes the collar of the wrap.
  7. Repeat step 3 for a further 37cm and then we will make the next sleeve.  Making sure you start from the top of the collar and work down (add a row if you need to), repeat steps 5 and 6.
  8. Continue building the final front panel, for 25cm, then we will make the button hole.button large
  9. Starting from the top of the collar, repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 37 stitches.  Chain 7, skip 7 stitches, then repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.
  10. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 7 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.
  11. Build a further 7 rows, or complete your ball of yarn.  Tie off, weave in ends.
  12. Sew button on the opposite end of the garment to the button hole 9cm from the end, 25cm from the top.Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken
  13. Block, stretching a little (especially the length) and you’re done!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #hakenThe back of the body warmer

Size Chart

You can switch out the stitch counts and centimetres in the written pattern above for the numbers in the chart below, depending on your required size.

SMALL MEDIUM
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 70 Chain 117 + 2 70cm Chain 117 + 2
Back 32 32 37 37
Front (button) 20 20 25 25
Front (button hole) 27 27 32 32
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 12.5 20 12.5 20
End Sleeve 20 32 22.5 35
Start Button Hole 23 37 23 37
Button Hole Size 7 7
LARGE X-LARGE
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 75cm Chain 123 + 2 75cm Chain 123 + 2
Back 42 42 47 47
Front (button) 30 30 35 35
Front (button hole) 37 37 42 42
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 15 24 17.5 28
End Sleeve 25 39 27.5 43
Start Button Hole 25 40 25 40
Button Hole Size 7 7

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Rainbow Hearts Tutorial Sizes 12 months – 10 years

Here it is!  I’ve created the tutorial for the Rainbow Hearts Tutu!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com

I’ve created this in multiple sizes, but please do bear in mind that I’ve based the sizes on Crochet Maths.  That’s a technical term that involves quite a bit of finger in the air guestimation.  The numbers are sound, but if your child is larger or smaller than the standard clothing sizes, do take that into account.

Please do also note that I have created this tutorial for you completely free of charge. Please do not pass this design off as your own, and please do not sell the pattern as if it were your own.  Do by all means feel free to sell items that you make from this tutorial, but do also be so kind as to send me photos, tag me on FB or Instagram, create projects in Ravelry or even link to this post.  Thanks for being cool about this!

Let’s get to it, shall we?

Rainbow Heart Top

What You’ll Need

Gauge

Two hearts across = 5cm
Two hearts high = 6cm

free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

DC (Double Crochet
FDC (Foundation Double Crochet)
CH (Chain)
SS (Slipstitch)
SC (Single Crochet)

Notes

This tutorial has been created using sizing for a 3 year old child.  A size chart has been created if you wish to make this top for a smaller or larger child.  This chart is based on standard clothing sizes, so if the child is small large for her age, do bear that in mind when starting.

Step by Step

Chart for the Heart Stitch used in the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

(left-handed chart)

Row 1:  Using colour 1 and the 3.5mm hook, FDC x 114, join with a SS, ensuring that the work does not become twisted.
Row 2:  CH2 (counts as 1st stitch), DC x 113, SS to join.
Row 3:  Attach colour 2 at the top of the SS from the previous row, but do not cut colour 1 as you’ll be using it again in Row 4. Skip 2 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH 1, 3 x DC into the same stitch (this creates the heart), CH 1, skip the next 5 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH1, 3 x DC into the same stitch.  Repeat around, SS into the SS from your colour join (total of 19 hearts).  Do not cut the yarn, you will carry it up and use it again in row 6, 9, 12 etc.
Row 4:  Change to the 4mm hook (you can stick to the smaller hook if you crochet loosely) and switch back to colour 1. CH 4, SC into the CH 1 space at the top o the heart from the previous round.  CH 2, DC into the DC that is direclty underneath the chain between hearts, making sure you stitch in front of the chain – you need to hide that chain for the heart effect to work.  CH 2, SC into the CH 1 space at the top of the next heart.  Repeat around, join with a SS to the 2nd chain from the beginning of the row.
Row 5:  Switch back to the 3.5mm hook. CH 2, 2 x DC into the CH 2 space from the previous round, DC into the CH1 stitch, 2 x DC into the next CH 2 space, DC into the next DC, repeat around, join with a SS.
Row 6:  Switch back to colour 2 and repeat row 3.
Continue to repeat rows 3, 4 and 5 until you have a total of 15 hearts.
Row 46:  Repeat row 4.
Row 47:  Repeat row 5.
Row 48:  CH 1, SC into each stitch around, join with a SS, tie off and weave in the ends.

Heart stitch from the front - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart stitch from the front – see the DC between the hearts is in front?

Heart stitch from the back- free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart Stitch from behind. See the hearts are all in a row, the DC in between hides this from the front.

Straps

Make two, using the 3.5mm hook and colour 1.  Gauge is 13 stitches per 5 cm.  Increase or decrease this amount as needed for your required length.

Row 1:  CH 67 – loosely.
Row 2:  SC into the 3rd stitch from the hook, CH1, Skip 1, SC into the next. Repeat all the way to the end, turn.
Row 3:  CH 1, SC into the CH 1 space. CH1, SC into the next CH 1 space. Repeat across, turn.
Row 4:  Repeat row 3.

Assembly

Ensure that the seam will be under the arm.  Attach the straps above the 3rd heart from each side and when attaching the other ends, cross the straps so they will be attached to the opposite side.

Shoulder straps of the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Size Chart

Age Waist Hearts FDC count Rows of Hearts
12-18 months 50 cm 16 94 9
1 ½ – 2 years 51 cm 17 102 11
2-3 years 52 cm 18 108 13
3-4 years 53 cm 19 114 15
5-6 years 55 cm 20 120 17
7-8 years 58 cm 21/22 hearts 126/132 19
9-10 years 61 cm 23/24 138/144 21

Tutu

What You’ll Need

  • 8-12 metres of tulle (one metre of each, cut into 10cm wide strips)
  • Chord (make a chain from your contrasting heart colour that is 80-100cm long
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Tape measure

Step by Step

  1. Take your tulle and fold it so it is double (the tulle will probably be sold to you folded double anyway) and cut it to the length that you want. I wanted a floor length ballgown style tutu, and cut it to 70 cm.  Repeat this for each colour.  Depending on the size of your child’s waist you’ll need more or less fabric.  I used approximately 120 cm of each colour (I bought in 150 cm lengths).
  2. Once your colours are all cut, lie them on top of one another in the correct order (colours of the rainbow) and cut them all at once to be 10 cm widths (I had 12 strips of each colour in total). It doesn’t have to be perfect, or even straight.  We’re not striving for clear straight lines with this project.  Stack all the sections and set them aside.
  3. Now make the chord. You can use normal chord that you might have lying around if you like, but I decided to make a chain in the same yarn that I used for my hearts.  This makes a pretty and sturdy little chord, perfect for tying at the waist.  Make this to be between 80 and 100 cm long.  My daughter’s waist is just over 50 cm, so I made mine to be 80 cm – plenty of length to tie a tight bow.
  4. Once you have the chord and the tulle, it’s time to start assembling the skirt. Take the folded end of each length and slip it around the chord leaving about 15-30 cm of chord at one end (this will be so you can tie the bow, then thread the two open ends through to make a slip knot.  Pull this very tight and make the knot as small as possible.  Repeat for each colour until you use all your fabric, or reach the required length.  Try to make sure you use a full spectrum so the join is invisible.  Also try to make sure the knots are as close together as possible.  This adds a lot of pouf to your skirt, making it a real princess ballgown.

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

Make sure you keep fitting your ballerina as you go, because if the skirt is too long, you won’t be able to tie it tight enough when finished, and if it’s too short you’ll have a gap.

There you have it!  An easy tutorial to make the Rainbow Tutu outfit of your dreams!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

(I’ve also added this to the latest Hookin on Hump Day link up.)

A Christmas Wreath

If you follow me on Facebook at all (you should, btw), you would have seen me posting about the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop all week, and today it’s my turn!

A fabulous Christmas-themed blog hop hosted by @Scheepjeswol.  Check out all ten fantastic creations, all with free patterns!

Thanks so much to Atty’s for yesterday’s post, wasn’t it just fabulous?  I’m definitely going to make some of those coasters, but I don’t know if I’ll actually use them as coasters, or get some Christmas washi tape and decorate my walls!

So let’s get to my contribution for this fabulous event, a yarn wreath.

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

For this I used a couple of different techniques instead of just crochet.  I made pom poms in varying sizes, and also made yarn-wrapped balls to decorate this gorgeous wreath.

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

What do you think of my palette?  I wanted something different, yet a little bit Christmas-sy and so I took Kirsten’s advice and spent countless hours (days?) trawling through Design Seeds for just the right colours and I thought that this one was just perfect.

Christmas Palette, design seeds

So let’s get to the instructions, shall we?

What you’ll need:

3 mm crochet hook
Scheepjeswol Stone Washed yarn in five shades (801, 807, 815, 813, 814)
A 25cm Styrofoam ring that has a flat side
About 20 Styrofoam balls in three sizes (4, 5 and 6 cm)
Fabric glue
Cardboard to make pom poms (or a pom pom maker if you prefer)
Scissors

How to:

First start working on the ring.  Using the glue, fasten the end of the lightest shade of yarn (801) to the Styrofoam ring.  Once it’s a little dry, start working the yarn around and around, adding dobs of glue as you go to ensure it all stays in place.  Once you come back to the beginning, snip the yarn, and fasten it all in place.  Set aside to dry thoroughly.

To make the Yarn Wrapped balls, take the colour of choice (make multiple in each size and colour), fasten the end of the yarn to the ball with the glue and start winding the yarn around the ball, like you’re just winding any old ball of wool.  Make sure that you add dobs of glue every now and then to keep the yarn in place.  Once it’s completely covered, snip the yarn and glue the end in place.

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

To make the pom poms, first cut two pieces of cardboard into corresponding sizes to your balls and make them into doughnuts.  I like to cut an opening to help wind the yarn around, but you should use your favourite pom pom method.  Using the various colours, wind the yarn around the cardboard until it’s very full, then cut and fasten it all together, trimming it to be a nice, round ball.

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

To make the crochet balls, you’ll need the different size styrofoam balls and a matching stitch count.

4cm ball:
Start with a magic ring, and stitch 6 single crochets (UK double crochet) into the ring, tightening it once you’re done.
For the second round, increase into each stitch around with single crochet so that you have 12 stitches around.
Round 3: Increase, then single crochet into the next stitch, repeating around until you have 18 stitches.
Round 4: Increase, then single crochet into the next 2 stitches, repeating around until you have 24 stitches.
For the next 5 rounds, single crochet around, before beginning your decrease at round 10. Insert the ball here too.
Round 10: Decrease (2 single crochet together), then single crochet into the next 2 stitches, repeating around until you have 18 stitches.
Round 11: Decrease, then single crochet into the next stitch, repeating around until you have 12 stitches.
Round 12: Decrease around until you have 6 stitches, cut the yarn, tie off and using a tapestry needle close up the ball.

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

5 cm ball:
Follow the above instructions until you’ve completed round 4.
Round 5: Increase, single crochet into the next 3 stitches, repeating around until you have 30 stitches.
Round 6-13: Single crochet around and after round 13 insert the ball.
Round 14: Decrease, single crochet into the next 3 stitches, repeating around until you have 24 stitches.
Continue with the instructions from round 10 of the 4 cm ball.

6 cm ball:
Follow the instructions for the 5 cm ball until you’ve completed round 5.
Round 6: Increase, single crochet into the next 4 stitches, repeating around until you have 36 stitches.
Round 7-19: single crochet around, and after round 19 insert the ball
Round 20: Decrease, single crochet into the next 4 stitches, repeating around until you have 30 stitches.
Complete the ball as per the instructions from round 14 of the 5 cm ball.

Assembly

Now is the time to put it all together.  I like to vary the colours, sizes and textures, trying to make sure that no two balls of the same size and texture are next to one another.  Start building your wreath using the fabric glue to attach each ball to the wreath and its neighbour.  This will take some time as the glue needs to dry a little before you can proceed.  Make sure you hold the wreath up to see how it’s coming together often so you can get a feel for the result.

Once you’re happy, leave it to dry properly over night, and then you’re ready to hang it!

Christmas Wreath for the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop - see all ten amazing designs and their free patterns, including how to make this wreath for yourself!

What do you think? Will you try to make one?  I’ve really enjoyed the process and I absolutely love the result.  I’ve started buying all my Christmas decorations in matching colours and if you check back here in a few days, you’ll see that I have something to go with this that I think you’ll love.  I’m also using the leftover balls as baubles for the tree – fun!

In the mean time, be sure to visit 50 Shades of 4ply tomorrow for the next installment of the Scheepjes Christmas Blog Hop!

Love,
Nerissa

Seriously Simple Granny Square

And now for the tutorial I promised of the granny I created while on holiday recently.

CH 4, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC x 11, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC into same stitch, Increase around, SLS to join.  CH 3, *DC into next stitch, CH 2, 2 x DC into the same stitch, DC into next, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC into next.*  Repeat what's between *_* three times.  SC around, CH 1 in each corner.  Be sure to click to see the original, and the extended photo tutorial!
It’s really so simple, you will be whipping these up in no time!

First of all, I’ll share a quick step by step photo to show you how it grows, then below I’ll give you the row by row.

CH 4, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC x 11, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC into same stitch, Increase around, SLS to join.  CH 3, *DC into next stitch, CH 2, 2 x DC into the same stitch, DC into next, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC into next.*  Repeat what's between *_* three times.  SC around, CH 1 in each corner.  Be sure to click to see the original, and the extended photo tutorial!
Simple, right? Now, let’s go.

For this project I used Scheepjeswol Cotton 8*. It’s a sport weight yarn and I used a 3mm hook. You can use whatever yarn you like, and the hook to match. Gauge isn’t important in this one. If you use my recommended yarn and hook, your finished square should measure 5.5 x 5.5 cm.

First of all, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch. Usually I prefer a magic ring because I like the centre to be as tight as possible, but in this case it doesn’t matter. There are a lot of stitches into the ring, so the chain 4 foundation will have a nice tight circle anyway.

Now, for row 2 (I’m counting the ring as the first row), chain 2 and double crochet 11 times into the ring, joining with a slip stitch to finish with 12 stitches into your ring. This is because we want to make a square eventually, so need a total that is divisible by 4. Finally, almost 20 years after I left school I’m using maths!

IMG_1926.JPG

If you’re changing colours after each row, you’ll want to cut and tie off your yarn, leaving a tail to weave in. I like to work the ends in as I go, to minimise the amount of weaving in at the end – I hate weaving in ends, have I mentioned that?

Row 3 – chain 2, double crochet into the same stitch so you have two double crochets in one stitch and stitch two double crochets into each stitch around, leaving you with 24 stitches once you slip stitch to join. If you’re not changing colours, chain 2, stitch two double crochets into the next stitch and each stitch around, with one into the last stitch, which is the same stitch that your starting chain came from.

IMG_1925.JPG

Row 4 – here we create the square. Chain 3, two double crochet stitches into the next stitch, chain 2, and two more double crochets into the same stitch. This creates the corner. Double crochet into the next, half double crochet into the next three stitches and then double crochet into the next. Now comes the time to repeat the corner stitch (two double crochets, chain 2, two double crochets into the same stitch), then repeat the row (DC, 3xHDC, DC) until you come back round to the start. Slip stitch into the top of the chain of the first stitch.

IMG_1924.JPG

Row 5 – Single crochet in each stitch around, with two stitches, a chain 1 and two more stitches into each corner, and you’re done!

IMG_1923-0.JPG

I joined the top side of my camera strap using single crochets, and the back side with a whip stitch so that it would sit flat and not annoy my husband’s neck, but you can use your favourite joining method. Once I had made enough squares to cover the entire length of the camera strap (13 in my case) I joined the two sides together with a single crochet into each corresponding stitch up each side, leaving the ends open so you can feed the strap through once you’re finished. This size granny is a perfect size for a camera strap, and it looks fantastic!

Ombre Camera Strap in action

Ombre Camera Strap

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