Category Archives: Pattern

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Reveal and How To

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It’s here!  Last week I was showing you the gorgeous Scheepjes Vinci yarn that I was working with, and this week here’s the result!  A beautiful crochet brioche cowl that has barely left my neck since it was completed.

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

I even had to take a selfie or two at the top of a mountain!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

It was so cold up there, I needed that cowl let me tell you!

One of the cool things about this cowl, and what the photos don’t really show you (except that top one up there) is that the cowl is reversible!  So, if you prefer vertical colour stripes like I do, you wear it that way, but if you’re more into horizontal, just flip it over and you have a totally different accessory.

So, let’s get down to business.  I’ve created a pdf of the pattern for you.  The pattern also has a photo tutorial on how to do the crochet brioche stitch.  What would you think about possibly seeing a video tutorial?  Should I finally dip my toes in and make one?  Let me know in the comments.

As always, please do share your projects with me on social media.  You know I’m all over Instagram like a bad smell, so tag me @miss__neriss (that’s with two “_”) and also use the hashtag #obsessedwithcrochet.  This is a little community I’m going to build, with more info coming soon…

Click the heading below to be taken to the pattern, and I hope you enjoy!!

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl Pattern Free Download

Chunky Crochet Brioche Cowl - free pattern available from missneriss.com.

Don’t forget: you can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Deramores, Wool Warehouse, and at Paradise Fibers in North America!

Crochet Minecraft Beanie Hat Tutorial

I’m really in Hat Mode lately, aren’t I?

This is the latest off my hook, a Minecraft inspired beanie for the son of a friend of mine. Minecraft inspired Beanie Hat, a free tutorial on missneriss.com

So far I’m lucky, I’ve been spared the Minecraft Mania.  But that’s possibly because my daughter is not yet four, nor at school.  I give it six months before Peppa Pig has been ditched for weird pixel people.

I decided to make a little tutorial so you can create your own Minecraft hat (or anything else, for that matter).

First, take your favourite double crochet hat pattern.  We all have one, mine is by Sarah from Repeat Crafter Me. Well, I don’t really use the pattern any more because I’ve made so.many.hats.

Once you have your hat underway, you can start working the Minecraft logo into it.  I’ve made a handy chart for you here, and remember, if you’re making a hat, you need to work from the top down.

Minecraft logo crochet chart with free tutorial on missneriss.com

Minecraft inspired Beanie Hat, a free tutorial on missneriss.com

These symbols are all US double crochet stitches, so you can use this chart to count your colour changes.

You need to carry the non-working yarn along behind your work as you go. Usually I would work the stitches around the non-working yarn, but in this case the black is quite visible through the green.  So what I did was, once I had finished working with the black, I continued on with the green, leaving the non-working yarn behind.  When I came back round to start the black on the next round, I loosely brought the black back from the previous yarn, and then worked that into my black stitches so it wasn’t hanging out to be caught.

You can also cut the yarn if you like, but carrying it and then hiding it will make it much tidier and easy to manage.

Once finished with the logo, just carry on in green and you can complete your hat.  Super simple!

Enjoy!  If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to send me an email, or fire off a Facebook message.

For this project I used Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Emmen (green), and some black yarn that I found in my stash.

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux, or internationally from Deramores, Wool Warehouse, and at Paradise Fibers in North America!

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The Granny Smith Market Bag Free Pattern and Tutorial

Goodness, what a title to a blog post!

But it does mean that the pattern is here.  Once again I’ve created a handy PDF file that you can download from here safely.

Granny Smith Crochet Market bag by designer @missneriss with Scheepjes Catona

I’ve also created a separate file with a photo tutorial of the special stitch repeat that this design uses.  It’s a really simple increase method, but is convoluted and makes me scratch my head and I came up with it!

Red Delicious Crochet Market bag by designer @missneriss with Scheepjes Catona

Granny Smith Market Bag free pattern on MissNeriss #scheepjes #catona

What You’ll Need

4 x 25g mini skeins of Scheepjes Catona*
1 x 50g skein of Scheepjes Catona*
4mm crochet hook
A tapestry needle to sew in your ends.
Cute scissors (one can never have cute enough scissors).

You can pick up the yarn via any great Scheepjes retailer in the Netherlands, or via Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* internationally.

Click below to go straight to the pattern:

The Granny Smith Market Bag

and the The Granny Smith special stitch

Red Delicious Crochet Market bag by designer @missneriss with Scheepjes Catona

Or, clicking on any of the images in this post will take you straight to the pattern too.

Don’t forget to share your finished bags on social media, you can tag and follow me just about everywhere: on Instagram, Pinterest, Ravelry and Facebook.  I love seeing your finished results!

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Happy crocheting!

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The Colour Block Knitted Baby Blanket for Beginners – Free Pattern

Last week I showed you the Colour Block Knitted Baby Blanket, and today I have the instruction for you.

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Now, let me tell you, this is absolutely the simplest knitted design you’ve ever come across.  It is the perfect  beginner project, because let’s face it.  That’s precisely what I am!  So, if you’re looking for a simple project that looks fabulous and is not a scarf – I don’t know how many knit one purl one scarves I made as a kid – this one is perfect.  And best of all, it’s not expensive because all you need to complete this is four skeins of Scheepjes Sunkissed, and you’re going to use every metre of those skeins.

Sunkissed by Scheepjes

Scheepjes Sunkissed Knitted Baby Blanket

What You’ll need
Four skeins of Scheepjes Sunkissed in 3, 7, 9, 10
3.5mm needles (I used 80cm circulars)
A tapestry needle to weave in your ends
Blocking boards and wires (or pins)
Eucalan (because it softens everything and smells amazing)

The final measurement of this blanket will be about 60 x 85 cm, so it’s a good buggy size, or snuggly swaddle size.  It’s also lovely and stretchy, and the Sunkissed is soooooooft.

Let’s Go!

Cast on 150 stitches.  I like to use the Slingshot Long Tail Cast on.  When I was starting, I had no clue how to cast on, but my friend Tammy recommended this method and it’s very easy.

Once you’ve cast on your stitches, you need to start making the border.  The design of this blanket is a stockingette stitch body with a garter border.  Essentially a giant swatch!

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Rows 1-5 knit in the garter stitch (knit), then we will start with the body of the blanket.

The first and last five stitches of every row will be in garter stitch and the body (middle 140 stitches) are in stockingette stitch.

Row 6: knit 5, purl 140, knit 5

Row 7: knit 150

Repeat rows 6 and 7 until you’ve finished your first skein of yarn (or until you know you cannot finish another row with the remaining yarn).  Attach the second colour and continue the row 6 and 7 repeat through all four of the colours.

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

Each colour block will measure about 21 cm, so when you get to about 19 cm of the final colour, you will need to start working on the top border.  The way I figured this out for myself was to fold the blanket with the join of the fourth colour matching up with the join of the first and second colour so I could see how far I had to go before I should start on the border.  This is because I’m not yet a great judge on how much yarn a row will use.

Knit the final 5 rows of the border, then cast off.  The feeling of accomplishment will be amazing, especially once you block it.

unnamed (11)

You can find the yarn at any great yarn store here in the Netherlands and Belgium, otherwise Deramores ships it world wide!

Colour Block Knit Blanket for Beginners using @Scheepjes Sunkissed by MissNeriss

I hope you enjoy making this, and do please share your projects on Ravelry, my Facebook page or on Instagram with hashtag #missneriss and #scheepjes

XN

Peek-a-Boo Button Wrap Pattern Size S-XL

Here it is, what you’ve been waiting for – the pattern for the Peek-a-Boo Wrap!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken

I’ve made this for you in four different sizes, from Small through to XL.

Here you can find a written pattern for size Medium, and below you can find a chart which will give you the measurements and stitch counts for sizes Small, Large and XL.

For the Dutch speakers among us, I’ve also had the design translated.  You can find it here. Veel plezier!

You can pick up the yarn at Scheepjes retailers all over the Benelux including Caro’s Atelier*, or internationally from Wool Warehouse* and Deramores*.

And even better, Esther from It’s all in a Nutshell has created a video tutorial, which is enormously helpful!

Are you ready?

What You Need

Scheepjes Stone Washed XL in 850 (Garnet) – 12 balls for size M (I used 11, but get an extra to be safe)
S = 10 balls (each ball of Stone Washed XL has 75 metres)
M = 12 balls
L = 15 balls
XL = 17 balls
7cm bamboo button – you can pick these up at any good craft store, or online
Size 5mm hook (or hook to obtain gauge)
Measuring Tape
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Eucalan wool wash

Gauge

8 stitches x 5 rows = 5cm x 5cm
gauge across gauge up

Stitches

Note: All stitches are in US terms
Chain (CH)
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Half Double Crochet Back Loop Only (HDCBLO)
Half Double Crochet Front Loop Only (HDCFLO)

Size Medium

  1. Chain loosely 119 stitches.  If you’re a tight crocheter, consider going up a hook size to make sure that the chain isn’t too tight.
  2. HDC into the third chain from the hook, and all the way across (a total of 117 stitches across).  CH2, turn.
  3. HDCBLO in the first stitch, HDCFLO in the next.  Repeat this front and back (HDCBLO/FLO) format all the way across, CH2, turn.  Note:  It’s important to ensure that you have an odd number of stitches to make it easier to achieve the texture of the stitches.  If you finish the row in the back loop, when you start the next row, start in the front loop and vice versa.  You’ll find very quickly as you go that the look of the wrap will be different if you don’t maintain the BLO then FLO stitch pattern in alternating stitches.Stitch view vest
  4. Repeat this pattern building rows for 25cm.
  5. Now we are going to make the first sleeve.  Follow the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 20 stitches, then CH 35, skip 35, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.  Make sure you double check that you stitch into the BLO or FLO correctly (if the stitch in the row below was FLO, you need to stitch into the BLO).
  6. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 35 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.  the short end becomes the collar of the wrap.
  7. Repeat step 3 for a further 37cm and then we will make the next sleeve.  Making sure you start from the top of the collar and work down (add a row if you need to), repeat steps 5 and 6.
  8. Continue building the final front panel, for 25cm, then we will make the button hole.button large
  9. Starting from the top of the collar, repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern for 37 stitches.  Chain 7, skip 7 stitches, then repeat the HDCBLO/FLO pattern all the way to the end.
  10. HDCBLO/FLO to the chain from the previous row, then HDC 7 into the chain, then continue the HDCBLO/FLO to the end.
  11. Build a further 7 rows, or complete your ball of yarn.  Tie off, weave in ends.
  12. Sew button on the opposite end of the garment to the button hole 9cm from the end, 25cm from the top.Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #haken
  13. Block, stretching a little (especially the length) and you’re done!

Peek-a-Boo Wrap free crochet pattern size S-XL on missneriss.com #hakenThe back of the body warmer

Size Chart

You can switch out the stitch counts and centimetres in the written pattern above for the numbers in the chart below, depending on your required size.

SMALL MEDIUM
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 70 Chain 117 + 2 70cm Chain 117 + 2
Back 32 32 37 37
Front (button) 20 20 25 25
Front (button hole) 27 27 32 32
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 12.5 20 12.5 20
End Sleeve 20 32 22.5 35
Start Button Hole 23 37 23 37
Button Hole Size 7 7
LARGE X-LARGE
CM Rows CM Rows
Length 75cm Chain 123 + 2 75cm Chain 123 + 2
Back 42 42 47 47
Front (button) 30 30 35 35
Front (button hole) 37 37 42 42
CM Stitch Count CM Stitch Count
Start Sleeve 15 24 17.5 28
End Sleeve 25 39 27.5 43
Start Button Hole 25 40 25 40
Button Hole Size 7 7

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Rainbow Hearts Tutorial Sizes 12 months – 10 years

Here it is!  I’ve created the tutorial for the Rainbow Hearts Tutu!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com

I’ve created this in multiple sizes, but please do bear in mind that I’ve based the sizes on Crochet Maths.  That’s a technical term that involves quite a bit of finger in the air guestimation.  The numbers are sound, but if your child is larger or smaller than the standard clothing sizes, do take that into account.

Please do also note that I have created this tutorial for you completely free of charge. Please do not pass this design off as your own, and please do not sell the pattern as if it were your own.  Do by all means feel free to sell items that you make from this tutorial, but do also be so kind as to send me photos, tag me on FB or Instagram, create projects in Ravelry or even link to this post.  Thanks for being cool about this!

Let’s get to it, shall we?

Rainbow Heart Top

What You’ll Need

Gauge

Two hearts across = 5cm
Two hearts high = 6cm

free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

DC (Double Crochet
FDC (Foundation Double Crochet)
CH (Chain)
SS (Slipstitch)
SC (Single Crochet)

Notes

This tutorial has been created using sizing for a 3 year old child.  A size chart has been created if you wish to make this top for a smaller or larger child.  This chart is based on standard clothing sizes, so if the child is small large for her age, do bear that in mind when starting.

Step by Step

Chart for the Heart Stitch used in the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

(left-handed chart)

Row 1:  Using colour 1 and the 3.5mm hook, FDC x 114, join with a SS, ensuring that the work does not become twisted.
Row 2:  CH2 (counts as 1st stitch), DC x 113, SS to join.
Row 3:  Attach colour 2 at the top of the SS from the previous row, but do not cut colour 1 as you’ll be using it again in Row 4. Skip 2 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH 1, 3 x DC into the same stitch (this creates the heart), CH 1, skip the next 5 stitches, 3 x DC into the next stitch, CH1, 3 x DC into the same stitch.  Repeat around, SS into the SS from your colour join (total of 19 hearts).  Do not cut the yarn, you will carry it up and use it again in row 6, 9, 12 etc.
Row 4:  Change to the 4mm hook (you can stick to the smaller hook if you crochet loosely) and switch back to colour 1. CH 4, SC into the CH 1 space at the top o the heart from the previous round.  CH 2, DC into the DC that is direclty underneath the chain between hearts, making sure you stitch in front of the chain – you need to hide that chain for the heart effect to work.  CH 2, SC into the CH 1 space at the top of the next heart.  Repeat around, join with a SS to the 2nd chain from the beginning of the row.
Row 5:  Switch back to the 3.5mm hook. CH 2, 2 x DC into the CH 2 space from the previous round, DC into the CH1 stitch, 2 x DC into the next CH 2 space, DC into the next DC, repeat around, join with a SS.
Row 6:  Switch back to colour 2 and repeat row 3.
Continue to repeat rows 3, 4 and 5 until you have a total of 15 hearts.
Row 46:  Repeat row 4.
Row 47:  Repeat row 5.
Row 48:  CH 1, SC into each stitch around, join with a SS, tie off and weave in the ends.

Heart stitch from the front - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart stitch from the front – see the DC between the hearts is in front?

Heart stitch from the back- free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Heart Stitch from behind. See the hearts are all in a row, the DC in between hides this from the front.

Straps

Make two, using the 3.5mm hook and colour 1.  Gauge is 13 stitches per 5 cm.  Increase or decrease this amount as needed for your required length.

Row 1:  CH 67 – loosely.
Row 2:  SC into the 3rd stitch from the hook, CH1, Skip 1, SC into the next. Repeat all the way to the end, turn.
Row 3:  CH 1, SC into the CH 1 space. CH1, SC into the next CH 1 space. Repeat across, turn.
Row 4:  Repeat row 3.

Assembly

Ensure that the seam will be under the arm.  Attach the straps above the 3rd heart from each side and when attaching the other ends, cross the straps so they will be attached to the opposite side.

Shoulder straps of the Rainbow Hearts Tutu - free crochet tutorial on by @missneriss

Size Chart

Age Waist Hearts FDC count Rows of Hearts
12-18 months 50 cm 16 94 9
1 ½ – 2 years 51 cm 17 102 11
2-3 years 52 cm 18 108 13
3-4 years 53 cm 19 114 15
5-6 years 55 cm 20 120 17
7-8 years 58 cm 21/22 hearts 126/132 19
9-10 years 61 cm 23/24 138/144 21

Tutu

What You’ll Need

  • 8-12 metres of tulle (one metre of each, cut into 10cm wide strips)
  • Chord (make a chain from your contrasting heart colour that is 80-100cm long
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Tape measure

Step by Step

  1. Take your tulle and fold it so it is double (the tulle will probably be sold to you folded double anyway) and cut it to the length that you want. I wanted a floor length ballgown style tutu, and cut it to 70 cm.  Repeat this for each colour.  Depending on the size of your child’s waist you’ll need more or less fabric.  I used approximately 120 cm of each colour (I bought in 150 cm lengths).
  2. Once your colours are all cut, lie them on top of one another in the correct order (colours of the rainbow) and cut them all at once to be 10 cm widths (I had 12 strips of each colour in total). It doesn’t have to be perfect, or even straight.  We’re not striving for clear straight lines with this project.  Stack all the sections and set them aside.
  3. Now make the chord. You can use normal chord that you might have lying around if you like, but I decided to make a chain in the same yarn that I used for my hearts.  This makes a pretty and sturdy little chord, perfect for tying at the waist.  Make this to be between 80 and 100 cm long.  My daughter’s waist is just over 50 cm, so I made mine to be 80 cm – plenty of length to tie a tight bow.
  4. Once you have the chord and the tulle, it’s time to start assembling the skirt. Take the folded end of each length and slip it around the chord leaving about 15-30 cm of chord at one end (this will be so you can tie the bow, then thread the two open ends through to make a slip knot.  Pull this very tight and make the knot as small as possible.  Repeat for each colour until you use all your fabric, or reach the required length.  Try to make sure you use a full spectrum so the join is invisible.  Also try to make sure the knots are as close together as possible.  This adds a lot of pouf to your skirt, making it a real princess ballgown.

Rainbow Hearts Tutu - a free tutorial on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

Make sure you keep fitting your ballerina as you go, because if the skirt is too long, you won’t be able to tie it tight enough when finished, and if it’s too short you’ll have a gap.

There you have it!  An easy tutorial to make the Rainbow Tutu outfit of your dreams!

Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available Rainbow Hearts Tutu on missneriss.com - free tutorial available

(I’ve also added this to the latest Hookin on Hump Day link up.)

Merry Mini Christmas

Happy December!  You know what that means right?  You’ll be bombarded with all things Christmas for the next 25 days until you just can’t possibly wait another minute to rip open all your presents on Christmas morning and will be devastated to have to put all your beautifully crafted decorations away in the new year.  I know I will be anyway!

So, to get us started, I’ve updated a pattern that I created last year, and am re-releasing it for the Christmas season.  I give you the new and improved Merry Mini Christmas hat!

Merry Mini Christmas - Mini Santa Hat pattern from @missnerissThe pattern has been updated and a few corrections made, and is ready to go for you to download and create the cutest little Santa Hat.  It’s just the best Christmas accessory, everyone comments and they’re just so much fun when you see them bobbing through the busy Christmas Market crowds.  I guarantee that you’ll be stopped multiple times to be asked where you found your hat, and you’ll have so much satisfaction from being able to say, “I made it myself!”

Grab it on Ravelry right now right her:  

Or on Etsy if you prefer shopping there instead!

Enjoy!

Merry Mini Christmas - Mini Santa Hat pattern from @missneriss Merry Mini Christmas - Mini Santa Hat pattern from @missneriss

Seriously Simple Granny Square

And now for the tutorial I promised of the granny I created while on holiday recently.

CH 4, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC x 11, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC into same stitch, Increase around, SLS to join.  CH 3, *DC into next stitch, CH 2, 2 x DC into the same stitch, DC into next, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC into next.*  Repeat what's between *_* three times.  SC around, CH 1 in each corner.  Be sure to click to see the original, and the extended photo tutorial!
It’s really so simple, you will be whipping these up in no time!

First of all, I’ll share a quick step by step photo to show you how it grows, then below I’ll give you the row by row.

CH 4, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC x 11, SLS to join.  CH 2, DC into same stitch, Increase around, SLS to join.  CH 3, *DC into next stitch, CH 2, 2 x DC into the same stitch, DC into next, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC into next.*  Repeat what's between *_* three times.  SC around, CH 1 in each corner.  Be sure to click to see the original, and the extended photo tutorial!
Simple, right? Now, let’s go.

For this project I used Scheepjeswol Cotton 8*. It’s a sport weight yarn and I used a 3mm hook. You can use whatever yarn you like, and the hook to match. Gauge isn’t important in this one. If you use my recommended yarn and hook, your finished square should measure 5.5 x 5.5 cm.

First of all, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch. Usually I prefer a magic ring because I like the centre to be as tight as possible, but in this case it doesn’t matter. There are a lot of stitches into the ring, so the chain 4 foundation will have a nice tight circle anyway.

Now, for row 2 (I’m counting the ring as the first row), chain 2 and double crochet 11 times into the ring, joining with a slip stitch to finish with 12 stitches into your ring. This is because we want to make a square eventually, so need a total that is divisible by 4. Finally, almost 20 years after I left school I’m using maths!

IMG_1926.JPG

If you’re changing colours after each row, you’ll want to cut and tie off your yarn, leaving a tail to weave in. I like to work the ends in as I go, to minimise the amount of weaving in at the end – I hate weaving in ends, have I mentioned that?

Row 3 – chain 2, double crochet into the same stitch so you have two double crochets in one stitch and stitch two double crochets into each stitch around, leaving you with 24 stitches once you slip stitch to join. If you’re not changing colours, chain 2, stitch two double crochets into the next stitch and each stitch around, with one into the last stitch, which is the same stitch that your starting chain came from.

IMG_1925.JPG

Row 4 – here we create the square. Chain 3, two double crochet stitches into the next stitch, chain 2, and two more double crochets into the same stitch. This creates the corner. Double crochet into the next, half double crochet into the next three stitches and then double crochet into the next. Now comes the time to repeat the corner stitch (two double crochets, chain 2, two double crochets into the same stitch), then repeat the row (DC, 3xHDC, DC) until you come back round to the start. Slip stitch into the top of the chain of the first stitch.

IMG_1924.JPG

Row 5 – Single crochet in each stitch around, with two stitches, a chain 1 and two more stitches into each corner, and you’re done!

IMG_1923-0.JPG

I joined the top side of my camera strap using single crochets, and the back side with a whip stitch so that it would sit flat and not annoy my husband’s neck, but you can use your favourite joining method. Once I had made enough squares to cover the entire length of the camera strap (13 in my case) I joined the two sides together with a single crochet into each corresponding stitch up each side, leaving the ends open so you can feed the strap through once you’re finished. This size granny is a perfect size for a camera strap, and it looks fantastic!

Ombre Camera Strap in action

Ombre Camera Strap

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Miniman’s Nursing Necklace – The Tutorial

As promised, I’ve put together a tutorial on how to make your very own nursing necklace, which is designed to keep small ones occupied while nursing, saving mama’s sensitive skin from sharp fingernails, hair from being yanked, and general mischief making while baby is nursing.  Of course this is not only for nursing mamas; it’s such a lovely necklace that it looks stylish on everybody!

Minimans Nursing Necklace isnt just for nursing mamas! Its a beautiful accessory in its own right! Free crochet tutorial

What you’ll need

Scheepjeswol Cotton 8* in four shades.  I used 527, 711, 652 and 700.  In the Netherlands you can pick Cotton 8 up at just about any great yarn seller, and internationally you can buy via deramores.com*.

A 3mm crochet hook, scissors, and you’ll also need wooden beads in varying sizes.  I used five 35mm balls and two 25mm balls.  For added interest, you can also add a wooden ring or two – babies love the different elements and textures.

IMG_1826Abbreviations

(American terms)

CH – chain stitch
SC – single crochet (UK double crochet)
INC – increase; two single crochet stitches into the same stitch
DEC – decrease; two single crochet stitches together
STS – stitch count

Notes

This project is worked in the round.  You will also need to crochet your stitches very tightly to ensure that they keep the form of the beads.  If you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook.

Don’t forget, I’m a leftie so you might have to flip the images in your mind.  I like to keep the images for us lefties because there just aren’t that many left handed tutorials out there.  If you need help, ping me using the contact page or on Facebook.

Make one ball in the darkest colour, two in the second darkest, two in the third darkest, and two in the lightest (the 25mm balls).

Babies can't resist Miniman's Nursing Necklace from missneriss.com

35mm Bead

Round 1

CH 5, close with a slip stitch, CH 1.

Round 2

SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)SC x 6 into the ring (6 STS)

Round 3

INC in each stitch around (12 STS)INC in each stitch around (12 STS)

Round 4

(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)(INC, 1 SC) x 6 (18 STS)

Round 5

(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)(INC, 2 SC) x 6 (24 STS)

Round 6-10

SC x 24 (24 STS).  Insert the bead to measure how progress is going at each round.SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)SC x 24 (24 STS)

Round 11

(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.(DEC, 2 SC) x 6 (18 STS).  Make sure the bead is inserted here and continue working around it.

Round 12

(DEC, 1 SC) x 6 (12 STS).

2014-09-04 19.47.03-1

Round 13

DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)DEC in each stitch around (6 STS)

Finish off and hide the tail.

For the 25mm bead, follow the same instructions, skipping round 5 (and round 11 as a consequence).

Once you’ve finished all five balls in the colour combination of your choice, it’s time to thread them onto a chain.  First you need to make yourself one.  I used the lightest shade and chained stitched until I had about 90 cm.  This way the necklace would have plenty of room to become longer or shorter as necessary.

Thread the beads and tie the ends into a little knot and then together using a slip stitch so that one end can slip easily (but not too easily) to adjust the length of the necklace.

Tie the ends, then join together using a slipknot.

And you’re all done!  Looks beautiful, doesn’t it? Miniman necklace - photo tutorial on missneriss.comI love seeing projects by others, so don’t forget to brag about what you’ve made on my Facebook page or upload to Pinterest, tagging me @missneriss.  Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram while you’re at it!

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How a Granny Became a Hexie

A couple of months ago Simply Crochet magazine launched a brand new Granny Square app which I discovered via creJJtion on Instagram and although I don’t often make Grannies – as you know, I hate weaving in ends and changing colours on each round creates a tonne of ends – I loved the pics people were sharing using the #GrannySquareMonday and #SimplyCrochetApp hashtags that I wanted to join the fun!

Of course, it all went wrong right from the start! I decided to begin with Granny Audrey as she was the prettiest so far and off I went, following the chart. Or so I thought! Towards the end I started scratching my head wondering why it wasn’t looking like the picture until it hit me – I can’t count! Instead of creating a Granny Audrey, Hexie Audrey was born instead!

I decided that I may as well run with it and added a border round so I at least had something to show for the effort before going back to the chart and actually reading the instructions and counting my stitches instead of acting like the proverbial bull in a china shop.
Granny and Hexie Audrey on missneriss.com - free chart
But at the end of the day, I have to say that I like Hexie Audrey better than Granny!

So just because I love the end result so much, I’ve created a chart of the pattern for you. Bear with me, chart making is NOT my forte, and I don’t have any fancy software to do it (yet), so my hand drawn version will just have to do.

Chart for the Granny Hexie on missneriss.com

Don’t forget to check out Granny Audrey on the Simply Crochet Granny app and download the free weekly squares. And then you must share them on Instagram! You can follow me here